I had DS1 at the C&W in October and had a great experience - sure they are not perfect as you can tell they are stretched, but they went out of their way to make sure that the birth was managed how I wanted it and I was never left alone.
I had an active birth room - had been told there would be no problem getting this as the hospital has a high rate of cases that are special cases who can't have such a delivery - and indeed I requested a water birth and within half an hour of arriving the second time (was sent home the first time as I was only 1 1/2 cm dilated and live close by) was in the water pool which made it all bearable. Only annoying thing was that the bathroom was shared with another room and in mid labour when I needed the look we had to make sure the coast was clear to hop out of the pool into the bathroom!
I only had gas and air which was what I wanted and was never pushed to have anything else. In the end I had an assisted birth with a ventouse with just some local anaesthetic as I pushed for 2 hours but baby had a cord round his neck and that was managed all within my wishes and nothing forced on me.
The midwives were great, and I would recommend letting the student (if there is one) stay in - the one with us turned out to be a 4th year doctor student who really helped out and looked after me and enabled my husband to have a break and go and get a coffee.
Food is awful,(though dry toast has never tasted so good after having a baby!) and pillows are hopeless so take your own for staying on the ward. But as everyone says, Carluccios over the road is great and there is a starbucks next door.
I am having my second baby there in March and had no doubts at all in my mind about going back there.