For me - yes, at first it's bloody agony!
I BF's DD1 for 24 hours before my nipples were cracked and bleeding (she looked like a little vampire with blood dribbling out of her mouth). But, I had no support - when I asked the midwife for help in the middle of the night after a 2.5 hour feed from hell she told me that ofcourse breast feeding hurt and to get on with it, she didn't even check the latch.
I know now that her latch was poor which accounted for the pain, nipple damage and the marathon sessions - because she wasn't getting the milk.
With DD2 I was absolutely determined to BF, despite such a poor experience the first time. Not because I am a BF evangelist - far from it. Although I understand the benefits of BF, I also think there is nothing wrong with formula. My main motivation behind the determination to get it right this time is convenience!
I did a lot more reading and research before she was born and the support at the hospital had also improved radically. DD2 is now 6 days old and is sleeping peacefully on my shoulder after a lovely feed!
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When she was born I got several midwives and my health visitor SIL to check the latch - they all confirmed it was a good latch. It still hurt, particularly on day three when my milk still hadn't come in. DD was getting frustrated at the lack of milk and feeding more regularly. What kept me going was the thought that it would get better when my milk came in.
My milk came in on Monday afternoon. Immediately things got better because there was more lubrication when feeding. It's still a little bit sore - especially on the one side where there is a little bit of bleeding, and it is definitely toe curling when she first latches on - particularly as she like to 'stimulate' my nipples before latching properly, but once she has been on for about a minute and is into a proper feed, it's slightly uncomfortable, but not really painful - the only time it hurts during a feed is if she gets a bit of wind and tenses up as she clamps down.
It was definitely worth the first few days of discomfort though - feeds are so much easier than bottle feeding - we've been out and about the past few days and being able to find a bench and whip a boob out is a lot easier than having to find somewhere to make bottles up! Night feeds are also a lot easier and DD2 is a lot more settled than DD1 was (she slept for a five hour stretch last night after a two hour cluster feed - result!
However - all that is my experience. My SIL gave birth 5 months ago and didn't have any pain or problems what so ever - she didn't even need to open her tube of Lansinoh, whereas I'm using it constantly.
My advice would be to do the following:
Read up on correct latches and positioning.
Check what BF support the hospital offer. If they don't offer any, make sure you get the numbers for local BF councillors or the La Leche League. It really helps to talk to someone, even if its for reassurance that you are doing it right or that what you are experiencing is normal.
Buy a tube of Lansinoh and Infacol for the little one.
Don't buy a breast pump until you know whether you are going to carry on. However do buy bottles, because chances are you will use these even if you BF as you may want to express later.
Buy a few cartons of ready made formula but not the powder. Having it in will give you some reassurance that you can feed your baby if you need to. Having cartons rather than powder will allow you to give a top up if needs be while you are accessing support and advice if things are going badly but won't be a waste as powder would be if you get BF back on track.
Good Luck - having gone both ways with this and experienced absolute agony, I can definitely say that it is 100% worth it! 