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Check wool for a big skirt, can I do unpressed pleats on the bias?

6 replies

ToriTheStoryteller · 05/11/2025 10:33

I love the fabric on the bias but I also want to add pleats that come straight out from the waistband.

I've looked at Q&A's on forums and the consensus is that pleats on the bias are a no, but does that still apply if they aren't being stitched? So I'm essentially using the pleats as I would stitch gathers into the waistband, but they are more flattering on me than proper gathers.

I want pleats because I want volume from the top (as opposed to adding flare), but I don't like the look of the fabric when it's pleated on the grain because the horizontal lines dominate (even if I drape across the grain).

Will bias-cut pleats, unpressed/unstitched from under the waistband, work?

OP posts:
Rocknrollstar · 05/11/2025 15:26

I think you already know the answer to this question but you are hoping someone will wave a magic wand.

ToriTheStoryteller · 05/11/2025 15:49

Rocknrollstar · 05/11/2025 15:26

I think you already know the answer to this question but you are hoping someone will wave a magic wand.

No, I don't, that's why I asked, but thanks for your super helpful and polite response.

I have used fabric on the bias, but not when gathering or folding.
The answers I've seen on other forums were talking about pressed or stitched pleats not working on the bias, which I get, due to the drape/weight of the fabtic.

So, my question was about unpressed pleats, effectively folds stitched only where they join the waistband.

OP posts:
Geneticsbunny · 11/11/2025 16:24

I mean you could try it but why would unpressed ones work any more than pressed ones do?

StanfreyPock · 11/11/2025 16:55

Nope, one or the other I'm afraid, pleats or bias cut, and with check pattern wool?
Are you going to try matching the check across the seams?
Even unpressed pleats ie gathers could end up looking very peculiar because of the way fabric, especially looser weaves like some wool and tweed, can stretch and shift about along the bias.
Edited to remove advice about flaring as that's not what you want!

Ohmygodthepain · 11/11/2025 17:11

Have you even considered matching the check on an angle? That's giving me nightmares on your behalf op!

ToriTheStoryteller · 12/11/2025 09:59

Thanks for the replies. I can't match the pattern at seams as the check isn't a square, it's a rectangular repeat, so all in all it wouldn't work! I have made a bias cut skirt matching pinstripes before, but that was easy as all the stripes met.

It's not wide enough for a circular skirt either so I'll just leave that idea for the moment as I have a plain wool that I'm going to pleat instead. The check might get used for a short jacket or slim trousers...I've only had it 10 years, no rush.😂

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