Stitch and bitch thread #8. It’s all starting to unravel

[NutellaEllaElla]

Welcome back and welcome for the first time to any newbies. As we go back into autumn/winter mode, sewing days are more and more appealing as the wind gales outside. I enjoyed looking back over the last thread, there were so many beautiful patterns (so little time), such beautiful makes, that thread is an absolute goldmine for inspiration. Also such wisdom from you lovely lot! Thank you. I couldn't do it without you actually as no one around me sews and you have imparted such great advice, hints and tips.

@PickAChew
@kittykarate
@TragicMuse
@SBAM
@pastabest
@Jins
@Blackamericanonosugar
@CrimsonAlligator
@SleepingisanArt
@dubyalass
@Brefugee
@InMySpareTime
@Rosenspants
@rivercobbler
@Karatema
@bookbook
@Sewingdufus
@FletchingStraight
@SideWonder
@CarolynKnappShappy
@Chewbecca
@eldorado02
@PrincessofWellies
@123ZYX
@Storynanny1
@Tinuviel
@Wildernesstips
@Dellabob123
@florentini
@longpathtohappiness
@twobluechickens

I haven't been very impressed with the twin needle stitches on my machine - it doesn't seem to have as much stretch as I'd like and sometimes the hem threads break eg when pulling it on. Not ideal. Think I might use the lightning stitch from now on, that's a good idea and will look OK too.

I did however manage to finally sort out my machine's tension last night, and that might have been causing the problems with the twin needle.

Triple zigzag stitch holds a hem down nicely and my machines both have some nice overcasting stitches that look a bit like fake coverstitch. I tend to use my Janome on lighter jersey fabrics, though, as my faff doesn't like them, throws tantrums about foot pressure all the time and just doesn't feed as evenly. The rattly Janome walking foot works better than the built in Pfaff IDT on these as the IDT just pulls the fabric from behind at a single point and the walking foot makes more contact with the fabric, either side of the needle.

I've never been happy with the outcome of using a twin needle. It's too nuch faff for the result.

@Frumpyunicorn - the beachcomber is almost my most used W&W pattern ( excepting the explorer raglan t shirt for my DGS ) . I use a normal sewing machine . For family use , I just use the triple stitch on my machine , works really well , and twin needle the hems - just make sure you have a decent turn up on the hems , so they dont 'roll' . If I am making a present though ( babyclothes etc) - I use the pretend overlocker just to finish off the seams neatly .
Finally have a bit of time ahead of me , so will be cutting out a couple of things for my daughter - yes , another beachcomber , along with the Agnes swing from Halla . Also doing a new hoodie for DGS ( Hot Chocolate from W &W - though he is so big now , he may be going into the mens Hot Coffee ) - he has chosen some minecraft inspired material , but the co ordinate for inside hood , cuffs etc is out of stock , so trawling around to see if I can find something similar elsewhere

@Jins this is a quick tutorial to make a thread catcher https://cleverbetty.blogspot.com/2013/02/scrap-catcher-tutorial.html

I used an old shower curtain for the lining so threads don't stick to it. Works perfectly and you can make it whatever size you like.

thanks for the threadcatcher tutorial. I'm still not making clothes (have done a few tissue box covers and bowl cozies lately) so this will make a nice change and help with the stashbusting.

@MontyDonsBlueScarf you superstar!

My takeaway pot can be retired

I'm finally making this pattern version B in a viscose jaycotts.co.uk/products/sewing-pattern-m8147

I need to buy interfacing for the collar but it doesn't say what weight. What would you use?

Thanks for all the advice on the Beachcomber everyone, my patterns arrived today so once I have ordered fabric (was planning on pound fabrics @Daffyyellow ) I will let you know how I get on. I should have plenty spare so will do a lot of practice first.

@jins I like that pyjama pattern, I think you mentioned love notions before so I do keep an eye on their feature Friday sale.

I don't know if anyone else has the same problem but now I am making clothes I feel reluctant to buy anything, but I can't keep up with what I actually need to make due to work and life getting in the way. It can't be just me?

Hello All,

So impressed with all the jersey talk, I am struggling with cotton lawn 😅I have been doing some mini quilt patches and turning them into zipped pouches just to get used to handling my machine. Slowly getting better at straight lines so think I will reattempt some curves soon.
Would also like to give a boxed pouch a go.

@Frumpyunicorn No, it isn't just you! Every time I see something I want to buy, a little thought keeps intruding saying, 'oh you could make that for a fraction of the cost....' especially if it's a linen dress or trousers. (I am currently coveting several dresses from Poetry but the prices are really eye-watering...) Reality is, I'm still a beginner so I probably can't make everything I see... and yes, I won't have everything I need given the time it takes me to run up a garment due to lack of time, space and ability!

Glad it's not just me @Rosenspants. I think linen will be fairly easy to sew and am planning a summer version of the york pinafore by Helen's Closet, I don't know if it's to your taste but it was the first thing I made for myself (in thin denim) and pretty simple

I've found that linen moved around a lot when cutting so bear that in mind, especially if you have linen with a woven pattern.

It’s so very hard to buy ready made once you sew you own clothes! Home sewn is definitely not cheaper. Finally found a pre-quilted fabric for my Cashmerette Fairfax, bit it’s £££ at almost £15 a half metre and I need 2.5 metres 😳

Just popped into my local fabric shop for some thread and noticed some boiled wool/viscose mix for half price (£15/m!). I've been after some for ages and I couldn't resist. Style Arc Petra here I come!

That would definitely need a lightweight interfacing and, if your viscose is very flowy, a stretch interfacing might give a nicer result, giving the fabric body without making it too stiff. Something to experiment with and see which you like best.

Definitely not just you, @Frumpyunicorn . I haven't bought ready made for over two years (underwear notwithstanding). I think making my own clothes makes me think more about what I actually need Vs what I want, although when I first started sewing again I sewed patterns I liked the look of rather than ones I would actually wear regularly, and so gave a lot away to charity shops. I'm better at only buying patterns and fabric that I know will a) suit me and b) get lots of wear because it does take time and effort to prep and sew stuff.

My other issue is I just don't fit in high street stuff - I am tall with long legs and being able to make my own jeans has been an absolute game changer. And high street quality is increasingly crap yet expensive. I'm not paying ££ for acrylic jumpers and polyester tops.

Thanks @PickAChew I've ordered a lightweight one & will see how it works out

After much experimentation I'm still not entirely happy with twin needles., but I have two things that made a big improvement.

Buy a spare bobbin case and loosen the tension slightly. It's easier all round to get this right on a separate case that you just swap in when you need it.

When you finish a hem leave a very long bobbin thread and then stretch the hem aggressively before cutting and tying off.

If anyone has other twin needle tips I'd be interested as I haven't entirely given up but I'm still not really satisfied.

If all else fails consider using one of the decorative stitches on your machine. I often use a stitch that looks like a herringbone, it stretches well, gives good coverage, lies very flat and as a bonus you can do it from the wrong side.

If stretch is not an issue but you like the look, you can get something similar by serging the raw edge, turning up and stitching down with two rows of straight stitches.

Which reminds me of my all time favourite serger tip. For circular skirt hems, sew round the raw edge with the differential turned up. This pulls in the edge so it just folds to the inside super neatly and evenly, and you can just straight stitch it down. Almost worth buying a serger just for this.

The only time I had success with twin needles was on an Abakhan class. They used a different thread on the bobbin that was stretchy. Seraflock or something.

@kittykarate that's a great tip. I might try maraflex next time I think about twin needles.

I usually end up with tunnelling which in some cases has been quite decorative but in others it’s just been annoying.

I can’t wind a second bobbin with looser tension on my current workhorse machine as it has a drop in bobbin but I could use my old Toyota as a dedicated twin needle machine. I just need a bigger workspace

@Jins I'm not talking about winding a bobbin with looser tension. I'm saying take out the bobbin case (the bit you take out to clean all the fluff bunnies out) and adjust the tension screw. Good picture here (scroll down to 2nd pic). If you're not used to taking this out, take a photo first so you can see exactly how it slots back in. If you've never taken it out before you may be in for a surprise....

https://rhinestic81.blogspot.com/2012/02/sewing-tip-2-adjusting-bobbin-tension.html

@MontyDonsBlueScarf yes that’s what I thought you meant. There’s no bobbin case on my drop in bobbin machine though

I've a birthday coming up & would like a really nice seam ripper - would be a naff present idea to so many other people but I know you guys understand 😁 I need ideas of where to buy, any suggestions

@FletchingStraight I was given a wooden handled one as a surprise present this week, lovely gift!