Stitch and bitch thread #8. It’s all starting to unravel

[NutellaEllaElla]

Welcome back and welcome for the first time to any newbies. As we go back into autumn/winter mode, sewing days are more and more appealing as the wind gales outside. I enjoyed looking back over the last thread, there were so many beautiful patterns (so little time), such beautiful makes, that thread is an absolute goldmine for inspiration. Also such wisdom from you lovely lot! Thank you. I couldn't do it without you actually as no one around me sews and you have imparted such great advice, hints and tips.

@PickAChew
@kittykarate
@TragicMuse
@SBAM
@pastabest
@Jins
@Blackamericanonosugar
@CrimsonAlligator
@SleepingisanArt
@dubyalass
@Brefugee
@InMySpareTime
@Rosenspants
@rivercobbler
@Karatema
@bookbook
@Sewingdufus
@FletchingStraight
@SideWonder
@CarolynKnappShappy
@Chewbecca
@eldorado02
@PrincessofWellies
@123ZYX
@Storynanny1
@Tinuviel
@Wildernesstips
@Dellabob123
@florentini
@longpathtohappiness
@twobluechickens

This is a helpful discussion as I am just about to attempt my second remy raglan using my nice viscose, would you recommend I tried a facing rather than the neck binding? (I think I will go for the one without a split front this time)

Also @Jins would you recommend a particular pattern for pants?

I love the 1/4" foot on my Pfaff. It's my favourite thing about it.

If by corners you mean actual corners, @Allthegoodnamestakken then slow right down when you get close, if necessary, hand crank the last few stitches. You might want to shorten the stitch length for the last one so it ends in the right place to turn (with needle down)

If you mean curves, then the same applies, it might mean that you have to negotiate a sharp curve a stitch at a time, lifting the foot and adjusting, if needs be. If your machine can end stitches with the needle down, automatically, this is easier. I tackled the curves on these pockets literally tapping the foot to advance a stitch at a time.

@Frumpyunicorn I’m going to try a facing for my next Remy but binding worked fine on my viscose one.

There are loads of free patterns flying around but I like Sinclair Kiki as there are height and rise variations.

Barrett bralette as bikini commenced using the Melly Sews tutorial for inspiration.

Wearable toile hopefully. I’m posting pics to show there’s no real difference to sewing swimwear. Patterned fabric is swim Lycra, spotty fabric is power mesh and the green is a scrap of swimsuit lining fabric

@Jins @Brefugee do either of you have a link to a tutorial on facing or what I should search? so far just got quilting results.
I love the look of bias binding its getting round the curve without going wonky donkey that I'm having issues with.

On an unrelated note, anybody quilted with blankets/lightweight duvets rather than proper batting? the price of batting here is extortionate but second hand blankets are easy to get and cheap, cotton ones or fleece.

@Allthegoodnamestakken

This is the method I use
https://blog.seamwork.com/tutorials/tutorial-how-to-draft-a-facing/

There are lots of YouTube videos as well I like the way that Karina from lifting pins and needles explains techniques

I am considering buying an overlocker. My daughter skates, and ive been making her costumes on my basic sewing machine. Just zig zag stitching the lycra. And they've held up ok. By no means amazing like a professional seamstress dress standard, but they are alright - especially if seen from a distance.

Is there a brand of overlocker/seger thats way better/worse than the others? Im totally clueless.

Overlockers - I started with an old, lightly used, Singer. It was good but then I snapped the lower looper in lockdown and so replaced in a hurry with a Brother, it’s a very better spec and performs better but is also noticeably louder.

It depends on your budget. A basic brother would do the job and they're good workhorse machines and their overlocker are better than Janome at that price point, according to my dealer. They do sound like marbles in a biscuit tin, though. I have the basic Bernina L450 and it's much quieter and very easy to thread.

Avoid anything with twiddly knobs on the front rather than layover tension discs, even if it saves you a tenner, as those things are a pig to thread.

I started with a second hand Lidl overlocker from fb marketplace. It was good enough for me to use in earlier days of learning to sew. Later on the thing broke but by then I knew I was sticking with sewing and was 'happy' to pay more for a better quality machine.

Have you tried maraflex thread, by the way, @SheWasASkaterGirl ?

Not at machines like it but it's useful for where you really need the neatness of a straight stitch

thanks for doing that, because i just... know. But I've been sewing for around 50 years now (a few more tbh)
Which is why it really galls me to have lost my clothes sewing mojo

I got my Babylock overlocker second hand (and fully serviced) from the Sewing Studio in Bath. No idea how old it is, probably 80s or 90s but it’s a cracker, really sturdy. No plans to upgrade unless it falls apart.

I’ve cut out a TATB Coco top and about to do another. Still got some lightweight jeans to sew up, maybe start those at the weekend.

Thanks for all the advice on neck binding @PickAChew and @Jins I had a little practice and am much happier with the result. I am going to practice on the good fabric too once I have cut my pattern pieces out.

Would I be mad to attempt a cuff on the remy 3/4 sleeve a bit like the one pictured? My new fabric is patterned and I am not sure I have enough to make the balloon sleeve. I have done plackets and cuffs on dresses for my daughters I could adapt.

Reading all the talk of overlockers with interest, attempting to sew knits is next on my to do list.

Thank you all. Im leaning towards a brother (mostly due to price) Im sure i shall be back in a panic asking how to use it soon!

That's a nice neat curve, @Frumpyunicorn

@SheWasASkaterGirl you will probably find lots of YouTube videos to help you get started.

late to the overlocker discussion - i have a Juki. Lower price range for them (around EUR 500 i think) son not cheap, but very solid.

I replaced my Lidl overlocker with an entry level Brother when the timing went. Threading is really easy which is a big bonus and it does everything I need it to do. In retrospect I wish I’d bought the bin that you attach for cut off bits but a takeaway container works pretty well.

This is mine but jaycotts had an offer on it when I bought it so it was a little cheaper

@Jins thankyou, will give it a go at the weekend!

with threading an overlocker there seem to be 2 camps: "knot the new thread to the old and pull through" or "learn how to thread it by practicing a lot". I've never managed the knotting thing.

And was really impressed with the 3-thread-1-needle hemming thing. Excellent and way way better for many fabrics than an actual rolled hem.

I like the overlocker method for making spaghetti straps as well. So much easier than fiddling with safety pins etc

I find it quicker and more failsafe to thread mine from scratch than faff about with knots.

Toile complete. It’s weird as when I held it against myself during construction I was sure it would be too small. Just tried it on and it’s a bit big. Theres plenty of scope for tweaks so it should be ok.

That’s lovely @Jins ! Remind me which pattern that is?

@twobluechickens

It’s the Barrett bralette which is a free pattern with tweaks by Melly sews to make it as a bikini top.

It’s rare for me to wear any other bra nowadays so it was a good start for a supportive bikini top