Stitch and bitch thread #8. It’s all starting to unravel

[NutellaEllaElla]

Welcome back and welcome for the first time to any newbies. As we go back into autumn/winter mode, sewing days are more and more appealing as the wind gales outside. I enjoyed looking back over the last thread, there were so many beautiful patterns (so little time), such beautiful makes, that thread is an absolute goldmine for inspiration. Also such wisdom from you lovely lot! Thank you. I couldn't do it without you actually as no one around me sews and you have imparted such great advice, hints and tips.

@PickAChew
@kittykarate
@TragicMuse
@SBAM
@pastabest
@Jins
@Blackamericanonosugar
@CrimsonAlligator
@SleepingisanArt
@dubyalass
@Brefugee
@InMySpareTime
@Rosenspants
@rivercobbler
@Karatema
@bookbook
@Sewingdufus
@FletchingStraight
@SideWonder
@CarolynKnappShappy
@Chewbecca
@eldorado02
@PrincessofWellies
@123ZYX
@Storynanny1
@Tinuviel
@Wildernesstips
@Dellabob123
@florentini
@longpathtohappiness
@twobluechickens

Hi everyone I am so impressed with the jean making. I am nowhere near that stage, I wouldn't mind having a go at a knee length denim skirt though. @Brefugee I hope your machine gets sorted quickly.

I had a go at the remy raglan over the weekend, first toile in an old bedsheet and second in my cheap viscose. I am really pleased with the fit, but I had some issues cutting out the viscose as I only have a small cutting mat, so will need to get a bigger one before I start on the good viscose. I also completely messed up the binding on the neckline and the French seam one side so will be getting the unpicker out. Amazingly though the fabric was OK to sew with and I was really pleased with the decorative stitchng down the centre of the top.

@Frumpyunicorn I’ve recently started using spray starch when working with shifty fabrics. It’s such a game changer! I could never cut or sew viscose that accurately, no matter how careful I was, but with spray starch it’s almost as if you’re working with paper instead of fabric…it’s possible I overused it a bit in all my enthusiasm, but you get the picture 😂 Because it makes the fabric much more stable, unpicking seams also becomes a bit less hazardous.

I bought ready mixed spray starch, but it is apparently very easy to make it yourself. All you need is a bit of water, cornstarch and a microwave, plus a spray bottle for application.

That's a useful tip. Do you spray the fabric before cutting? Do you have to put something down under the fabric? Does it wash out easily afterwards?

I've recently made PJs out of brushed cotton that made lovely soft PJs but loved all over the place when cutting, which made matching up the tartan pattern harder

@123ZYX yes, it washes out really easily.

I sprayed all the fabric on my ironing board, with nothing underneath it. Left it to sink in for a minute, then gave it a quick (low temperature) iron to dry the fabric. Wiped the ironing board and the floor afterwards, as it weirdly makes non fabric surfaces extremely slippery!

For particularly fiddly bits (collars etc), I re-applied some more spray starch before cutting. Also used some more starch before sewing the hem, as I was just blown away by the really nice crease I managed to achieve! Like I said, I got a bit carried away 😂 I think most people who use spray starch use it in a more restrained manner, for fiddly bits only, but I went a bit wild!

I noticed that the fabric didn’t go shiny after ironing either, which I often find a problem when working with viscose. Not sure if that was a coincidence, or another positive side effect of the spray starch. I suspect the starch may be protecting the fabric from the heat, but more experiments will be needed to confirm that.

i will get Spray Starch Flashbacks from my time in the army - I've never ever used it on civilian clothing/fabric. Maybe i need to start.

Viscose is tricky stuff. The first time I cut it out it bore no relation to the pattern piece. Nowadays I pin more than I think I need to and use pattern weights as backup. I only use spray starch when making binding but I should probably use it more.

I had plans to get DS1s thermal T shirt out of the way yesterday but a friend rang to see if I fancied lunch and I did. I wish I’d cut it out though as I’m not sure I’ll find an hour today to make it. I’ve changed thread on my overlocker so the next project for me needs to be suitable for cream overlocking or I’ll be vexed at having to change it so soon. It might be the beige neoprene’s time in the spotlight

My one attempt at spray starch was a disaster. As well as finding it too heavily perfumed, it made the fabric too slippery to feed. Ended up binned.

my machine is now at the appropriately named Sewing Machine Doctors' place, and it seems to be a problem with the socket where the foot pedal goes. So it's going to cost me about EUR 200 to fix, which is less than the price of a new machine, and if i pay attention to how i store it, should be ok for another 20 years.

But. Waahhhh it's going to be 3-4 weeks.

Hi all I managed to do the neckline in the end by using quilting clips instead of pins (which kept falling out) and putting a bit of tracing paper under the fabric when I stitched. It is not perfect but wearable and much better. Next time I will definitely try the spray starch thanks for the tip. I am going to work on some cotton fabric next, making a dress for my daughter which is fiddly but actually much easier and will tackle my next remy raglan when I have a bigger cutting board.

@Brefugee sorry about your machine. You will just have to spend the next few weeks fabric and pattern shopping instead.

@Frumpyunicorn in a cruel twist of fate my local (very tiny) sewing/knitting shop is closing down with a sale. Oh dear, what a shame, never mind.

In German the paper "tracing" paper that you can buy is called Seidenpapier (silk-paper) and it is indeed designed, it is very thin but a little rough on the surface, to be laid between pieces of silk, fine or slippery fabric so you can sew it. I remember back in the 70s my mum made me a Family Circle rag doll (beautiful Regency era dresses, underwear and hairstyle) and she laid the brown wool for the hair between two pieces of the paper to sew it together. (she also made her suitor, Captain Brady, for my brother. Beautiful works of art)

i went into town today, extra to go to the closing down fabric store. But they are closed (have been since Thursday) until Tuesday, for Karneval.

We can get the Burda tracing paper that has that name on the label. I get through a lot of it! I prefer it to the slightly heavier tracing paper for most pattern tracing (unless I'm planning to heavily alter the piece) and love that a few rubs makes it extra clingy so it doesn't float away.

Yes, I use the plastic film paper or print my own on sturdy printer paper

I bought a roll of Swedish tracing paper years ago for pattern tracing but haven’t used it as much as I should. I have some of the Burda paper for stitching delicate fabrics but don’t use it much nowadays.

@Frumpyunicorn I use quilting clips quite often as well on fabrics that show pinholes. Otherwise I use a pinning method I saw on YouTube which is very secure - the pins go through the fabric twice. I find it useful for sleeves.

In sewing news I’ve made a toile for swimming shorts out of 5oo4 ninja pants (free pattern) which has gone well so I’ll be making a couple of them for my hols. Yesterday I cut my chlorine damage swimsuit up to make a pattern from it. Most bought ones are too long in the body and wide in the hips for me but this one is perfect so worth replicating.

I'm really enjoying all the makes and the tips on here at the moment! After a dry spell with my sewing, when I really wasn't feeling too well, I started another project after Xmas/NY holidays....TATB Megan Dress, because I wanted to learn a new skill...this time set in sleeves. It was only going to be a wearable toile at best! Managed the sleeves but found them really fiddly at first. Unpicked and second time around a lot better. I'm getting better at concealed zippers although it's still a bit of a 'mare and there was one small pucker which I ironed out, but there's now a little tear there, from when I tried the dress on....ho hum. The main thing I've learned ..about TATB is, for past makes I've had to size down but this is so fitted with quite a few darts that I shouldn't have sized down this time. I think I'll have another go a size up as it's a lovely shape. I'll also lengthen it as prefer to cover my knees these days.

I love that fabric @Rosenspants.

I’ve not done much sewing but I have been preparing by working out what I need for a beach holiday and sorting through my patterns. It turns out that I need swimwear, some sort of coverup and maybe a dress. Not too bad really as I have suitable fabrics and patterns.

Ambitious start to my swimwear needs as I’ve just bought E&M Wave Rider

I’m going to do this properly. Measurements today though and I’ll do the adjustments on paper before starting as you’re supposed to do but I rarely bother with. Bought swimsuits are usually too short in the body for me so I’ve bought tankinis for years but I don’t seem to be able to get my best speeds in a tankini.

I’m starting with the rash guard for my hols but the main aim is the long sleeved swimsuit in neoprene for open water swimming and paddleboarding

I have that pattern, but haven't worked up the oomph to start making it. Plus zips are my nemesis.

I hate wearing clothes with zips so haven’t done one for decades. There’s no alternative for this sort of swimwear though. I’ve got a wetsuit which I detest as it fits badly and I can’t manage the back zip. I’m planning on making the long sleeved swimsuit with swim Lycra arms and neoprene body. I’ll have enough spare for some neoprene leggings all being well.

In sportswear sewing news, the ski balaclavas (one in leftover scuba, the other in fleece) I sewed were absolutely awesome on my ski holiday. The over helmet hood however I didn't like so much, I found it restricted my peripheral vision too much.

Sorry for the irrelevance of this comment, but can I just say how much I love this thread and wish I did sewing just to be a part of it!
I hope you don’t mind… but you’ve all inspired me to start a separate thread for artist ( hopefully there’s some more on here! 😅) 🩷

I love this thread too! I find it very friendly and supportive.

And you could always join us... Beginner sewists just as welcome as more experienced ones!

I've had a bit of a break from sewing recently. Started a new job in January and it's been exhausting so I've been mainly knitting instead - just the bottom ribbing to do on my new jumper but it's twisted rib so it's taking forever. That said, I did manage to finish my jeans and I'm really pleased with them - got the fit almost perfect. I have another pair cut out and ready to go so might start those next week.

I’d love to join in, purely to be in awe of the talent 🤭🤩 🩷

Yes feel free to join us @PoliteTurtle , I started it to get help from competent sewists and very much consider myself a beginner.

I have also had a break from sewing for various reasons. Now I have a beach cover up kimono thing which I ordered online cheap as chips and it is a lovely fabric, but basically an ankle length bed sheet with sleeves and side seams. I need to do a sewing bee style transformation project, any ideas?