Stitch and bitch thread #5 This whole thing is fabricated.

[NutellaEllaElla]

Welcome back seamsters! It is soon to be September and Autumn is on its way.

Ok so I cut another piece and tried again and it's not going well! Different reasons this time. I tried the method where you sandwich the fabric inside the binding and sew it once - not working well for me at all actually and I don't plan on doing it again. I don't know if I can unpick or if I have to cut yet another piece but before I do, can anyone tell me why the bunching? (If it will let me attach a picture)

Take 2

It's a bit demoralising tbh!

It looks like it is being stretched as it goes through the machine.

I wouldn't use a walking foot for stretch fabric personally, I'd use lots of pins/clips and a normal foot with a lightning stitch.

Also is that the way the pattern asks you to add the binding? Usually it's one continuous piece, which helps with getting the tension right all the way round the neckband once you have quartered it. The half neck thing is really confusing me!

Yeah, you only attach a binding to the front of the top as the back is a fancy bow shape. The binding is shorter than the neckline as well which according to the internet is normal so I had to stretch it to pin the two together, then again when I was sewing it together?!

@NutellaEllaElla binding will only work to pull the neckline flat when you’re wearing it if it’s shorter than the neckline of the top, but you have to be super careful to only stretch the binding and not the bodice fabric. I think pasta is right that it’ll be easier to control without the walking foot.

You should only stretch it to pin it evenly in place.

No further stretching should be taking place after it's pinned in place or when it's going through your machine. I literally touch it with featherlight fingertips just enough to guide it through the machine, any pulling it through will cause it to ripple with stretch fabric

pin like you have never pinned before and let your feed dogs do the work moving it under the foot.

Stretch fabric can be a nightmare. Have you tried keeping hold of the tails of the thread at the start of stitching to give it a little encouragement to go through. And then only stretch the binding part. But if it’s wavy at the end, a press and a steam (if the fabric can tolerate it) does wonders.

I have very nearly finished a pair of Yanta dungarees I’ve been working on this week. Need to go and get some buttons, but no obvious local shop to visit so if anyone has any online button shops they recommend I’m all ears.

Thank you for all your advice. I think I have one last attempt left in me (and in my fabric remnants now) so i'll look at it with fresh eyes tomorrow.

I don't have any go to button online shops, just used ebay before I think.

Two full days free for sewing! So excited. Going to attempt a shirt or woven top of some description.

well, I've finished my Jasika wool jacket (whoop).

I'll take some photos tomorrow but I'm probably going to be putting them on IG rather than MN as I've already posted some of the construction photos there.

That's going to be one of my next projects too.

Either a deer and doe bluet or another TATB Rosa.

I've got some children's oodies to make and 3 sets of curtains though which are more pressing at the moment now I've got the blazer out of the way.

Well done @pastabest! What is it like sewing with wool? I'm on insta if you want to pm me your ID i'll follow

Sympathy @NutellaEllaElla. I have mixed results with stretch fabrics. In fact I’ve just tested some ITY I picked up with the intention of making a gathered top and it won’t go through my machine without skipping stitches regardless of what I do so it’s back in the stash and will end up as an overlocker project.

I finished my suiting trousers and I’m not very happy with them. I should have done a sway back adjustment or altered the rise at the back. Strange how patterns work differently with different fabrics

Phew, i've finished my main fabric bow top! I decided to use a different type of neck binding as the one in the pattern was categorically not working for me.

My fabric is the devil.

I even went out and bought a different fabric but then stubbornly wouldn't let my original material beat me. I had to use a scrap piece to get started every time. I ignored a bunch of other things I have to do today in order to succeed on this.

Thanks for the follow Nutella I LOVE your saguaro I wish I could get away with wearing things like that.

Something I'm trying to change is that I only put a fraction of what I actually sew on IG, and only when the stars align when I'm already wearing the item, there's no children in the way and I have nothing better to do, so there's loads of stuff I keep wanting to put on but never get round to. It's really unrepresentative as the stuff I really like and wear all the time is less likely to end up on IG somehow.

I've started a new dress project today which only has 3 pattern pieces which was a lovely surprise when I opened it. I'm starting to learn that I need to alternate big projects with easy win projects so that I don't lose my sewjo.

Thanks pasta ! I could only wear it on day one of holiday as after that I ate too much and felt too ashamed of my protruding tummy .
I don't put much on IG as I worry my real life friends will think i'm attention seeking. I know my sewing friends would understand 🤣

Agreed, you definitely need an easy one after any really tricky projects.

Oh no one I know in real life is on my sewing IG, there is one former work colleague who also sews who came across me and follows me, and everyone else is people who have followed me from the sewing community and the usual spam accounts. it's not even linked to Facebook or anything.

I was far too subconscious to post anything on my in my name Instagram account.

I occasionally post in some of the Facebook sewing groups such as The Foldline as well though.

@pastabest if you want to DM me your Instagram I’ll follow you too. I also post very infrequently, mainly due to overthinking and worrying about showing off. I don’t know why because I love seeing what other people have sewn.
Im currently making a Waves and Wild Hot Coffee jumper in a waffle knit, and then next up I want to make a pair of True Bias Lander Pants - I fancy some non-elasticated clothes back in my life.

Ahemeh...I meant self conscious not subconscious

although that is perhaps my subconscious talking.

I've sent you a DM SBAM

Just finished a McCall's m7899 top and am really pleased with it, even if it is a bit short (going to redo the hem to get another cm out of it 😬

Got it in their half price sale at the weekend and once I'd fathomed out the sleeve tucks and pinned everything it was a really easy sew.

I will definitely make it again but might size up for the next one - will see how I feel once I've worn it.

I think you do sometimes need to wear a garment to see how the fit really works.

I am now on the cutting out stage for toddler dungarees. Many thanks @Jins for the pattern.

My plan is to make them reversible but I am not entirely sure how yet! I even woke myself up thinking about them this morning!

I am tempted to make them single sided in a different fabric just to see how they go together then have a go with making them reversible.

I’m just starting the Josephine dress (version A) from the latest Fibremood magazine. Has anyone tried any of theirs? It’s my first time from them, but so much easier to trace out than the Burda mags.

Reversible dungarees sound interesting - will you need to include snaps for the bottom area?

I have made a few Fibremood Norma blouses but from a bought pattern rather than from the magazine. I like the look of fibremood but I suspect that their pattern blocks are based on someone taller and more willowy than me.

they aren't included in this chart though csews.com/sewing-tips/sewing-pattern-height which I think has been posted on other threads and I always find very useful when considering pattern purchases.

I’ve got the fibremood Frances top printed out but not stuck together yet. From the brief glance I’ve had at the instructions they look pretty clear and have some useful fitting notes on choosing a size. The model for the Frances is definitely a tall and willowy type.

I don’t know if you have the waves and wild overitall dungaree pattern Gnome but I’m sure they can be made reversible - might be a good starting point for figuring out a method.

Thanks for that link Pasta - super interesting and useful to consider as I’m 5ft7 and my height is in my legs so I’ll have to be careful with the Lander pants, or they could end up unintentionally cropped.