Full bust adjustment

[Leah2005]

I'm thrilled to bits that I have just completed my first FBA. The armholes fit well with room for my boobs but have some extra material above. Do I need to do a smaller size with a bigger FBA or just a bigger FBA on this size to take this extra out? I've added a photo of my toile. It is going to have sleeves if that will make a difference.

It looks to me as though you need a wider dart in the shoulder area to take out the extra fullness. The shoulders seem rather wide for you and that would help. To me it also seems that the centre front neckline is very slightly high on you - probably could do with lowering about 1cm in the middle. Hope that helps. Good luck!

I'm not sure how I would put a dart in the shoulder area? That's why I was wondering if the smaller size would sit better with a bigger FBA. I think the front neckline is high because I haven't added the facing which would take it down a bit.

You could try a narrow shoulder adjustment.

It depends on how the rest of the pattern fits you, is it fitting well every else such as the back, waist etc?

It’s definitely too broad for your shoulders. If you hold your arm straight and raise it 90 degrees and lower it a few times you will feel the hinge point. This is where the shoulder edge should finish (unless it’s a drop shoulder design).

Thank you Paper flowers - off to Google narrow shoulder adjustment!!!

It looks too big in the shoulders and a little tight over your boobs. I'd try the smaller size with bigger FBA. Are the dart points in the right place? They look a little high

I did a pattern fitting course years ago and one of the things I remember doing is making a mini toile using just the top bit of the pattern above the boobs and getting the size and fit right with that before moving down.

JanuarySun - I made the toile again one size smaller and it fits much better (maybe a little tight but you live and learn). I tried to get on a mini course on Saturday to try FBA but it was full so I thought bugger it, i can do it myself. My darts were too high because I hadn't put my bust apex in the right place but I've improved that now. Brill idea to do a half toile. What paper do you use for pattern tracing?

Glad it's looking better, I love pattern making. However, I have 3 little kids, so unless I'm making leotards for stiffed rabbits I'm not sewing much lately. Swimsuit for a toy penguin was my greatest success yet :-)

I had some Burda pattern tracing paper from John Lewis many years ago that was good to use.

Sorry January - I missed your last message
Leotards for stiffed rabbits - really?!?! I'm off again on this top to try to perfect it. I'm going to try the 16 with FBA and also narrow shoulder adj as I want to make it in crepe or polyester and need the wriggle room. I've just bought some freezer paper to use which is good but difficult to see through to trace my pattern underneath. I'll Google the burda paper - thanks for the tip.