Sewing sleeve cap ease, does it matter which is the dominant seam?

[thecatstrousers]

I have a couple of projects on the go that have a fairly generous sleeve ease, I like how the toile fitted so I will persevere (top and tunic patteren).

Years ago I had a maniquine so I used to set the sleeve in and sew the sleeve hole last. Without the maniquine I find it easier to ease the sleeve in and then sew the arms and sides last.

Does it matter which method is used? I have been geeking up on general tips and methods for fitting sleeves because I have my eye on a few more designs that I know will include sleeves.

I tend to do the sleeve then see up the arm and side seam, because that's how I find it easiest. But then I've never had a dress form.

Most of the modern patterns I've used have instructed to assemble the sleeve then set it into the bodice, whereas the older patterns I learnt with mostly did it the other way.

That's interesting to know re the older patterns. I am dreadful at following the instructions and tend to abandon them for other methods that I've found in books etc. The instructions for the current project are hilariously bad but I don't mind because the cut is good!

If you set in the sleeve first do you leave the seam allowance on the sleeve unsewn? I hate setting in sleeves and this sounds a much better method than sewing all the seams then setting in the sleeve.

I think I'm reading what you have said correctly, so yes, you sew the sides of the garment and the length of the sleeve last.

This way you are easing the sleeve in between 2 fixed points rather than trying to fit a tube into a hole with a smaller diameter! You just, IMO, have to be mindful of where in the sleeve you are putting the most ease. It's not just a question of fitting it in Willy nilly, I've seen various diagrams explaining where slightly more ease goes and where there would be less (I have possibly geeked out on this too much).

I think I remember that you put most ease around the back curve, and ease off at the shoulder point - is that right?

Well, I have seen that method, but I have seen others too. One is with ease around the front and back (non at the top).

I wonder if it depends on the garment. I will investigate further!

Traditionally (I have been dressmaking for 40 odd years, learnt form my Mum and my fussy school teacher) you would sew up the bodice side seam and the arm seam and yes set and ease in, on a circle.

Leaving the side seams open seems a lot easier way to do it