Disheartened novice dressmaker

[Polyethyl]

I bought a very easy vogue pattern. Measured, pinned and cut meticulously carefully. But it doesn't remotely fit found the shoulders and armholes.

Apparently vogue patterns are cut for someone with a B cup, where as I am H cup, so that means the dress is designed for someone with a huge ribcage/shoulders and small tits. I have wasted hours cutting and measuring something that will never fit me.
I made my mother schlep up to London to see if she could rescue it, she tried adding darts.... But No joy.

How do I find a pattern that will fit me?

This is very disheartening. You need to google ' full bust adjustment' also known as FBA. This will show you how to adapt your pattern to fit your bust size. Unfortunately it has to be done to the paper pattern before you cut out.
Also try looking at Colette / Cashmerette patterns - I think they do a range for a fuller bust.

What sort of style are you looking for?

Style Arc patterns (available from Amazon) are, for me, stylish with a relaxed fit.

BUT the instructions assume some sewing knowledge and can be confusing at first read. I've managed though, just take things step by step.

There is also a good book by Tilly Waldness (Tilly & The Buttons) that might help.

Yes, to all the above suggestions! But also check out: http://curvysewingcollective.com
It's a wonderful resource for getting fitting issues right. There are also some classes on Craftsy- I usually buy them on their regular sales, though, as they frequently reduce the price a lot. Getting the bust to fit is so important, but once you figure it out it is life changing! I never realised ready-to-wear is based on a b-cup before I started sewing, but suddenly it all made sense as to why so many shop clothes looked like shite on me

Also, it's boring, but make a muslin first: it will really help you fit something before you cut into expensive fabric, and sometimes the fit is fine and you can wear it as well. I find the independent pattern companies are better than the big four. Also have a look at Seamwork magazine (online) - again, it's great for patterns and fixing the fit.

It's very disheartening alright to go to so much effort for it not to turn out well in the end. It's probably not much consolation but we have all been where you are, even those with lots of experience.
There have been some good suggestions above already. Someone mentioned The Curvy S

Ooops!
The Curvy Sewing Collective a above is definitely worth a look.
And since you are in London there are a multitude of sewing classes or workshop where you can learn to alter a pattern to fit.

My mother grumbled that she had been taught dressmaking at school and she regrets sending me to an academic school instead of one where I would have learnt sewing.
I'm clearly going to have to go on a course as I have watched a video about bust adjustments and didn't get it at all.
Cashmerette look good, but those patterns were bigger than me. Those patterns are American and meant for very big people! so I'll have the opposite problem of shrinking it.

This looks hopeful

www.colettepatterns.com/catalog/rue

Thank you for guiding me to it.

I feel your pain OP. I triumphantly pulled no end of garments from my sewing machine only to be bitterly disappointed when the fit and shape are awful. It's taken me 25 years of sewing to come to the realisation that there really is no getting around the tedium of pattern adjustments and muslin-making.

I would suggest looking at Colette patterns and following a make along on their blog.

Dressmaking to begin with is really frustrating and full of fit disappointments, especially if you have to do bust adjustments. And sadly there is no avoiding doing a muslin.

Indie pattern makers are much more into this than the big 4 and when they launch new patterns will usually have a blog with a make a long and endless details on how to do fit adjustments. Doing some Craftsy classes is another really good way to learn.

When you have got the hang of this you can go back to Vogue, buy a pattern based on your high bust measurement, not bust, and then do a FBA and it will fit far far better.

I've also got a book which is my fit and adjustment bible - will post name when have finished my coffee.

Make a 'manikin' of yourself.

You need an old T shirt you don't mind destroying and duct tape - and a friend

Put the T shirt on and get your friend to wrap coils of it round the T shit pulling it in to fit you.

Your friend then cuts the T shirt off you with a single cut up the middle of the back so you can take it off..

reconnect the back with tape and then stuff it with a pillow filling, tape up the 'arms' and neck and you have a 'form' you can pin your pattern to to check measurements.

Have you tried a 'tube dress' - very easy.

I think it is easier to start with fairly shapeless things and then go to more fitted as you gain experience.

All great advice here.

Another approach which isn't fast, but gets great results in the end is to start with a pattern making course. Find one which starts making customised patterns from the very beginning (some frustratingly teach you to make patterns for standard sizes hrumpf). I did this, it was a bit confusing at first but once you have basic blocks for yourself, you can produce a tailored pattern for anything you want to wear.

(yes, and still make it up in a cheap but similar cloth first for final adjustments)

A mannikin and a rough version first does seem vital. I can see that amount of my dress making kit is about to increase.

At the moment I can only get well fitted clothes from Pepperberry Bravissimo. But their range of dresses have short skirts - which is why I started learning dressmaking.

Make a muslin.

Study clothing you own which fits you well and use it as a guide.

Stretchy fabrics are harder to work with but more forgiving fit wise. Personally I've given up on fitted garments as they simply never fit right and become useless as soon as I gain or lose a bit of weight!

There are ranges of patterns which have curvy options. Sorry can't remember the name, but I did have a dress pattern which had different pieces according to bust and hip measurements. It was a reasonable fit, not perfect but better than a "normal" pattern.

OK, gone and dug out my fit bible - it is Fit for Real People

www.amazon.co.uk/d/Books/FIT-REAL-PEOPLE-2ND-Clothes/0935278656?tag=mumsnetforum-21

My big advice is from the book is if you have to do a big FBA like me you need to do it in 2 stages. Most of the blogs will show you how to do it in one stage but if you are doing inches and inches you will end up with a mega dart that looks ridiculous - the book's way is much better.

Book is alos helpful in that it covers how to do FBAs in practically every type of clothing. I can't be bothered to do every single type of fit adjustment they suggest but just doing some makes a huge difference.

A word of warning about Colette - there have been a lot of complaints on various internet forums about the fit of their patterns. The Rue dress in particular seems to be riddled with drafting errors.

You could look for patterns with different cup sizes. Simplicity do a range called "Amazing fit". The other big companies probably have something similar.

It took me two years before I managed to make something wearable. Getting things to fit can be a challenge, but once you work out what adjustments you usually need to make to a pattern it will get easier.

Thank you. I've got a lot to learn.

Avoid the indie patterns like Colette or Curvy Sewing Collective - they have tons of negative feedback about the quality of the patterns. As a beginner, try the Vogue Amazing Fit patterns. Preferably something that has separate top and bottom sections for the dress. Pick a simple one that recommends dress fabrics with some body. Much easier to work with than slippery or stretchy fabrics to start with. Do a FBA on a paper pattern.. Loads of YouTube videos around, as well as free Internet tutorials. Use some cheap fabric to work out the top half of the dress, using the adjusted pattern. Attach a waist section with pins. The top section will behave differently with the weight of a skirt fabric. Some more finessing will become obvious from the trial piece.
Most important, have patience.
Or, if you are in London, try the Morley College for some beginner lessons

Ok I feel the need to tell you this before you buy any of Collette's patterns but the drafting is rubbish. Especially around the armholes, in particular in the Rue dress. It caused a huge fuss last year when it was released, it had to be re released as there were so many complaints.

Cashmerette is good if you are larger all over. She's actually English but lives in the US.

Otherwise you'll need to learn full bust adjustments and how those affect other seams and fit.

Fit for Real People is an excellent book, I recommend it also. Try a FBA on a pattern with princess lines and use your high bust measurement to determine which size to base your pattern on.