Help a beginner dress maker - Is using patterns really the only way?

[somuchtosortout]

I bought a sewing machine last year as I had always fancied myself as a dress-maker, but no-one in my family was that way inclined so have not really been exposed to it much.

I've had it out very rarely as I find it quite disheartening!

I traced around a few of my dc's A-line dresses to make a costume for a school play, it was very rough around the edges but ok as a one-off wear.

Yesterday a friend showed me how to work out a pattern so I tried out a simple top with casing and a single strap that gathers round the neck instead of sleeves.

I followed to the letter and ended up with a massive rectangle 3 times too big for my DD, even though it was a pattern for 4 year olds.

I didn't enjoy working with a pattern, does it get easier?

I feel like just cutting out material and doing it out of my head, but don't know any basics so it's just guess work!

Youtube is your friend when you're just starting out.

Like you, no one in my family sews, once you watch a few videos of people sewing you'll get an idea in your head of how things go together. I then started looking at my own, and dds clothes, and now I hardly ever sew with a pattern and just make my own up.

Google simple peasant dress tutorials or have a look on pinterest, this was the first dress I did and its great for understanding what it is your actually sewing and how the garment comes together. From this i've made dd pinafores, a-lines, halternecks. Perfect a bodice, perfect a skirt, and understand how sleeves work and you'll have a very good grounding for how to sew clothes by using their existing wardrobe as a template.

Thats certainly how I started anyway, I spent more time reading and understanding than I did actually sewing. The first time I tried to make something I didn't use an iron and it was a disaster, now I iron every piece of fabric in the way I wish to sew it before I sew. Lots of little improvements like this will be learnt as you go along, it just takes some practice.

And remember its so important to have realistic expectations and not get disheartened at every hurdle. Your one-off piece was probably excellent for a first attempt!! If everyone could pick up a machine and produce designer quality garments after a first attempt, well everyone would be doing it wouldn't they? Good luck and have fun!

Thank you Hamil, I wish I could use YouTube! I'm living in Africa at the moment and streaming a YouTube video makes you want to pull your hairs out one by one.

However as soon as I'm back visiting home I will be sure to give myself a crash course.
You are right about the ironing, it seems such faff but I can see how it is important after my recent disaster! (Although I finished it off this afternoon and at least you could see the shape of what it was supposed to look like).

I will also get some books when I'm back in the UK, I know there's been that sewing bee programme so I'm sure there must be lots of stuff available for reference.
Thanks for the encouraging words!

I'm very much learning as I go. Two books I've liked recently are the Collette handbook and the Tilly and the Buttons book. I'd recommend both - but I'm in awe of the thought of working without a pattern. That's so brave!

Dressmaking can take a while to get going with...well as in actually making something you'd want to wear and that fits!

I've found it easier since getting cutting mats and rotary cutters and using metal washers as weights, instead of using needles to pin down the tissue pattern pieces.

Also with sewing, you'd be best starting off with make simple things like simple bags, pencil cases, then move on dressmaking, get a beginners' sewing book...I bought 'Sew Everything Workshop'.

IMO making things 'off the top of your head' is not an easy option, I've been sewing 7 years and couldn't do that!

Like you say, if you had better internet, you can get some great Youtube videos on simple skirts with just wide elastic as a waistband.
You'll get better results if you persist with the patterns.

If you can get hold of any Amy Butler sewing patterns for bags etc, I found them really great for advancing my sewing skills, because the instructions are so thorough...unlike dressmaking patterns which usually expect you to know what to do, giving only basic instructions (unless you buy from an independent designer like 'Sewaholic' who have better step-by-step instructions)

Things not fitting was a BIG problem that nearly made me completely give up, I bought the 'Palmer Pletsch' books of pattern fitting which have really helped...especially with knowing which size pattern to cut out, how to measure myself.

Always start with really simple patterns, that don't need much fitting, such as a full skirt, smock style dresses.

When you've got better internet access, I really, REALLY, recommend Craftsy classes...they are ACE!!! I've bought their classes on repairing clothes, watercolour painting, knitting...I'm just in love with them . You can keep replaying them and ask questions. I've seen some beginner sewing classes on there....

Don't give up!

There was a lady on last years Sewing Bee (Chinelo?) that didn't use patterns. I think it is freehand sewing/cutting. She produced some marvellous garments without a pattern. It may be worth looking at this route.

I was just about to post about Chinelo from last year's Sewing Bee, her way of measuring directly onto the fabric interested me - I plan to attempt something on an old duvet set at some point just to see what it turns out like.

The big difference is that Chinelo wasn't a novice/beginner.

I would buy a pattern that has a number of basic items on it to start with and learn how to alter that pattern to make a good fit.

Make sure it is something you like and you will use it a lot - once you are comfortable with altering a pattern move on from there, perhaps buy a pattern drafting book or class on Craftsy which I think are international.

Measuring is very important, measure whoever you are making it for accurately and consider the 'ease' and seam allowances included in the pattern. If your pattern has 6" ease and your subject measures small you will end up with a huge garment, likewise, if your seams are narrower than suggested that will add extra room.

I have been sewing for a long time and always use a pattern (I like them), even if it is one I have drafted from using something else or bits of something else, I like them and am reasonably good at making something that fits me and my daughter.

I suppose it is just practice and you have to remember all the bits that could add room as above.

Chinello wasn't a novice but that was how she learnt to sew, not via patterns.
OP is the problem the actual action of sewing seams or fitting? Commercial patterns often come up huge, which would explain your problem with your DD's dress. The main commercial sewing patterns have totally different sizing compared to what you would buy in a shop. Read the back of the pattern carefully....and some give at least 4" of ease. The main problem is that you can never see how much 'ease' is included until you see it on the tissue paper.

I've got an idiot question along the same lines. I was thinking about buying a dress making dummy my size and just free hand fitting it to that.

I have no idea how to do patterns.

Chinello had a tailor for an aunt who she shadowed for months, a bit different from someone who has no practical help. I think it would be really easy to have many failed attempts and give up without any guidance or experience.

Seconding Colette patterns. A lot more expensive than your McCalls etc, but they really do teach you to sew. I've used a few individual patterns and also have the book. There is a free top pattern which is the first thing I made by them that I recommend Sorbetto top
If you run a Google images on it, you'll see hundreds of versions.

Would your friend have time to help you again with drafting your own pattern?

I've only recently started drafting my own again after a break of about 15 years & my first few goes were sooooo far off the mark it's unreal.

Third draft is in the process of being turned into a dress for dd1.

Or, could she help you to blend the pattern sizes you need to make something that actually fits?

Laure, I always use or adapt patterns so I have no idea - I would pop over to the sewing forum and ask there. Lots of very experienced people and they are lovely, really helpful.

Or even Laurie .

For anyone who doesn't want to draft their own patterns (like me), this place is good. I have used a trouser pattern of theirs before with great results.

You basically tailor the pattern to your own measurements if you are not a standard size.

www.lekala.co

Thank you for your suggestions everyone! I suppose I am influenced by seeing people here in Africa who somehow learn to make clothes and have never seen a pattern in their lives, or a computer! They make amazing things just from copying a garment or a picture! And that will be using an old singer with no options of different stitches.

There should be an African sewing bee!
But I will take all suggestions on board, order a few books and more expensive patterns and persevere. I'm sure by following good patterns I will learn the basics of sewing, then we will see.
However can't even think of drafting my own pattern! Where would you even star!!!???

silver it was more the sizing, (and a bit the slightly odd shape), I think I have the hang of a basic seam but could not understand the instructions for the casing so just guessed my way.
The thing was huge. You could have made almost two tops for my very petite dd!

Think you need to explain about 'ease' though, sorry, but I am that much of a beginner!

Thanks for all the replies though, what a nice friendly forum!

Ease is the word that describes the difference between the body measurement and the garment measurement.

Think of a simple shirt or t shirt - a size 10 might be made for a 34" bust but the shirt or t shirt will measure 38-40 around the bust.

Fitted styles have less 'ease' or room than non fitted styles.

Patterns usually tell you the finished garment size on the outside grid on the back and the 'ease' on the paper pieces inside.

somuch, look up ikatbag for good sloper (basic pattern block to your own measurements) tutorials, they're what I used to get going again. The ones I used were specifically aimed at drafting for kids.

She does tutorials on altering them to make them into what you want to as well. So you could turn a top and skirt into a pinafore dress type of thing.

It might not be your thing to draft your own iyswim but might be worth a go at it

I

(not sure where random 'I' came from, sorry )

Ive made a couple from here:
patternemporium.bigcartel.com
They are more like tutorials than patterns and the instructions are amazing. There's also a FB group you can ask questions of if you get stuck.