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Japanese waistcoat

3 replies

WorldWildWifeFund · 12/10/2014 23:41

Hi All,
I am a complete novice in sewing, but so inspired by Japanese things I've seen that I would like to try my hand at making something. Please would someone take a few moments to look at the waistcoat in this video (the woman's, not the samurai!) and suggest what fabric I could use to make it? You'll see it's fairly stiff. Also, the colour banding on the waistcoat is achieved by thin patches of material, held together by bast thread that also gives the garment its firmness. Bast is a tough traditional (vegetable fibre) thread that does not seem to be available any more - can anyone suggest a modern equivalent?

OP posts:
WorldWildWifeFund · 12/10/2014 23:53

Woops sorry can't get a more precise link, but it's the 'Begin Part 2' video on the page the link sends you to.

OP posts:
WorldWildWifeFund · 13/10/2014 23:01

It is something like this 3-way circle vest - the large 'vest' image.

OP posts:
anzu66 · 14/10/2014 21:47

Hi, I finally joined up here, after long-time lurking, to answer this.

I used to live in Japan, and love Japanese cloth.

What you are seeing is almost certainly hemp cloth, probably woven by hand. Japan was too cold to grow cotton, and they didn't have sheep, so no wool. So earlier on (like up to 100 years ago, and up to as late as the 1950s in some remoter areas) you ended up with silk if you were rich, and hemp if you were poor, with a few oddities like cloth made from birch bark in the far North.

If that jacket in the video was made from a second hand kimono, then it would definitely also be lined with cloth that is equally thick, so the stiffness is coming not just from the cloth itself, but from having two layers of cloth, stitched together.

Reasonable substitutes would be linen (choose one which is not too fine), or ramie if you can get it.

They do also sell second hand kimonos online directly from Japan, though I can't give you the name of any sites. I've always stayed away from them for fear of succumbing to temptation!

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