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Can anyone help me with a couple of curtain sewing questions?

16 replies

AWombWithoutAFoof · 20/09/2014 13:05

I'm a novice sewer, so please be kind!

I want to make some curtains for a bedroom, and I'm thinking of velvet as I want something that will be insulating for both sound and heat. Am I on the right lines, or is there Something Dreadful about sewing velvet that only experienced sewers know? I'm planning on using curtain liners, but I can just hang those separately, can't I, I don't have to sew linings in. I'll probably get blackout linings.

Also, how do you make sure you're cutting square? I made a blind recently, and used the edges of my table as a guide, but surely there's a more accurate way of doing it than that?!

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TunipTheUnconquerable · 20/09/2014 13:09

The only thing to be aware of with velvet is that the fabric has a nap, so if you need to piece panels together to get a big enough curtain, make sure that the nap is going the same way or you'll get dark patches and light patches.

Missunreasonable · 20/09/2014 13:15

I find velvet really difficult to work with due to its natural movement. For a project that requires a big piece of fabric like curtains I would use something else and interline them for warmth and blackout or I would use chenille which is thick and warm but easier to sew than velvet.

AWombWithoutAFoof · 20/09/2014 13:25

Hhm. Don't like the sound of natural movement.

When you say interline, do you mean sewing lining material to the back of the curtain, rather than having separate liners?

Sorry to be dim.

Any tips for cutting square?

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Missunreasonable · 20/09/2014 13:42

Interlining means the curtain is usually made up of 3 layers all effectively stitched together. You have the outer fabric (the fancy display one) a layer of thin wadding type material called interlining in the middle and a lightweight lining on the other side. It is more work but the result is a luxury heavyweight curtain which blocks out the light and keeps the room warm in the winter.
Alternatively using chenille with any kind of lining will result in a decent curtain which will be thick enough to block out light and keep the room warm.

lavendersun · 20/09/2014 13:54

I have always made my curtains, cushions, throw, covers, etc., etc..

I would steer clear of velvet tbh as I have always found it very unforgiving. The only thing I have in velvet is a door curtain which I sewed entirely by hand on the velvet bit (it has about a 6" of the fabric my roman blinds are in at the top which I attached by machine and then made a channel for the pole to go through).

Machine stitching on velvet tends to look a bit crappy in my opinion.

I use a large right angled ruler like this one but much bigger to get square corners and measure everything twice before I cut!

www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0051T4OHA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=479289247&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0087ZRH7Y&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=1QN51YA9ZCR4V24NQ8P4

AWombWithoutAFoof · 20/09/2014 13:56

I'm not mad keen on the look of chenille, what else should I think of?

The interlining method you mention sound like a good idea. In terms of stitching them together do you do three sides and then turn it inside out? Or is there a way that gets you sharper corners?

I'm guessing interlined curtains are not cleanable/washable, is that right?

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lavendersun · 20/09/2014 14:02

I attach interlining at the top, obviously sandwiched in the middle. Stab stitch here and there - tiny individual virtually invisible stitches through all three layers and hem all sides by hand, turning over the top fabric to neaten the hem. The bottom hems are usually separate as in top fabric turned up and stitched to/through interlining and then the actual lining you see hemmed separately.

My curtain fabrics are not generally washable ones but interlining wouldn't wash.

I think you can buy lining with a built in interlining (have never used it so don't know how it sews) which might be good for you if you haven't done it before.

I would get a good curtain book out of the library, this is my curtain bible for inspiration and/or methods:

www.amazon.co.uk/The-Encyclopaedia-Curtains-Catherine-Merrick/dp/0951684140/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411218103&sr=8-1&keywords=encyclopaedia+of+curtains

Missunreasonable · 20/09/2014 14:06

You don't need to worry about sharp corners because the top of the curtain will be stitched fairly flat due to the heading on the curtains and the hem will be stitched in single layers so the corners will be fairly sharp.
You should never stitch the curtain outer fabric and linings together as they will not hang correctly. I always stitch them lining hems before I join the lining at the sides. The lining should be an inch or two shorter than the facing fabric when the curtains are complete.
Interlining is not machine washable (but many curtain fabrics are not machine washable anyway). However, I was mine inside a duvet cover on a wool wash during the summer and hang them on the line so they dry fairly quickly. I have to wash them as we have an asthma sufferer in the house.

RaisingSteam · 20/09/2014 14:19

Yes yes to one of the Merrick books - I have curtained out my whole house following her instructions. Blinds Curtains and Cushions is another good one, for less than the price of a metre of fabric.

I'd love a big set square but I square up by folding a metre of fabric back on itself, and marking the fold, and measuring everything from that point.

I have made an interlined pair of curtains and they're very thick - I couldn't triple pleat them. They were quite a challenge TBH. If you are a novice, one layer plus lining, and a ruffle tape header will be most straightforward for the first pair.

It sounds unbelievable because they are so big, but handsewing curtains is far easier than machining them. You still machine the lengths together, and the lining hem, and the ruffle tape at the top. Only the edges and hems of the main fabric are handsewn, you keep it flat and square on the table rather than fighting it through the sewing machine. They have lovely crisp corners and hang beautifully.

Quite a lot of "velvety" curtain fabrics are more structured and less slippery than dress fabric and should make up OK. e.g. nice ones on this page. Look on their chenille page too. They will send samples IIRC.

AWombWithoutAFoof · 20/09/2014 17:21

Thanks all, you're really helpful!

So, if I were to go the straightforward route and do one layer plus lining, can I use blackout fabric for that?

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Missunreasonable · 20/09/2014 18:18

Yes you can use blackout fabric for that. Thermal blackout lining is the best type.

AWombWithoutAFoof · 20/09/2014 18:21

Great, so I sew them together along the top attaching the ruffle tape, hem the lining, sew them together down the sides and then hem the main fabric?

Have found some gorgeous fabric on RaisingSteam's link!

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AWombWithoutAFoof · 20/09/2014 18:35

Ooh, found some lovely corduroy fabric, but it's on the upholstery section of a website. Would it be OK for curtains?

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Missunreasonable · 20/09/2014 19:50

You see up the sides first with the reverse sides of the fabric together (lining slightly narrower than the outer fabric) then you turn it all the right way around and add the heading tape.
I find it easiest to hem the lining fabric before I sew the sides together.

AWombWithoutAFoof · 21/09/2014 11:43

Thanks, Miss. Is corduroy ok for curtains?

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Missunreasonable · 21/09/2014 17:11

Corduroy might be okay depending on how stiff it is. If it too stiff then it won't hang right but most corduroy fabrics should be okay. Can you order a sample?

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