Rescuing my first attemp at sewing...

[Birdie80]

Hello, never posted on this section before so this is all new to me! I'm hoping a good dressmaker will come along and give me a little advice

I have started making a tunic/dress. It was going really well until a few minutes ago, I managed to cut the material, sew in the darts and zip with no problem.. The size guide said that I needed a size 14-16, whereas I'm usually a 12. I went with it and cut out the pattern to a 14, but it's now too big, even though it's the size I should have due to my measurements!

I'm trying to pin it a little smaller, but I think the problem is that as it was wider than expected, a lot of the dart is in the hem, so it doesn't hang very well (there is a little bit of puckering). I'm not experienced enough to put in extra darts and I'm terrified of messing up what I've already done, but I want it to fit nicely. Help!

The only way you're going to fix this is to remove the excess fabric! You're going to have to tackle making the darts deeper, adding more or taking in the side seam. Can you link to the pattern so I can see which would be most appropriate?

If you have to take in lots of material, you're best to split it over as many seams as possible ie if you need to loose 2 inches either side, take in the side seams an inch, add or deepen the darts by an inch and so on.....this keeps the balance of the garment.

Put it on inside out, or on a dress form if you have one and start pinning!

I don't get why the dart would be in the hem. darts are for fitting around boobs and hips/waist. Do you mean the dart carries on into the hem like a seam?

Put on inside out. Take it in on all the darts and seams equally, although slightly more on the seams.
Pin it, take it off, mark in the alterations, making them equal on both sides, tack or pin, and try on again.

Fwiw, commercial patterns are always on the big side

Did you shorten the pattern by cutting it off from the hem? That would explain why the darts are down so low...

When you have a paper pattern, you will see that there is a line across the pattern where you can can shorten or lengthen and another line on the vertical where you can enlarge it or minimise it.

Work out how much you need to lose by taking honest measurements (no-one will know how big or small you are) and in future go with your bust measurements and then adjust the others to fit.

Next see how many seams you have... so let's say, right side, left side and back... which is six in total, divide the amount it is too big by... let's say it is 6" over your waist and 9" over your hips... which will be an inch off each side over your waist and 1.5" over your hips.

Now when it comes to your armholes, unless the sleeves look huge, do not reduce from the top of side seams but retain the integrity of the shape and reduce from about an inch below.

Put the tunic on inside out and get someone to repin the darts... tack them in place and check that is feels comfortable and adjust as necessary.

Hope that helps :)

Thanks for the replies, I forgot to check back!

Sorry, I've got confused with my terminology! I meant the seam, not the hem, sorry for confusing everyone and making you wonder how on earth I managed to get the dart anywhere near the hem

I have had a go at putting more darts in, getting someone I work who is an expert sewer to pin it for me, and it's a much better fit now. I don't have a link to the pattern, as I got it from the free Mail supplement a couple of weeks ago - it's a very basic tunic, but has sort of become a dress now it's a bit more fitted!

It's really useful to know patterns are often on the big side. Hopefully the next attempt (which I've already got the fabric for) will be a little easier.

Thanks again!

Another rescue?

I took my measurements and then looked up the pattern size. However, I've just measured the actual pattern and it is 33cm bigger.

I know that I need to breath but that is too much.

What to do?

You need some wriggle room, otherwise it will be too tight, especially if it is a lose fitting one. I would measure a similar style in your wardrobe and see what the measurements are on that.

Just done some measuring. The pattern now ranges from 34cm to 24 cm too big.

Is that compared to the ones in your wardrobe? Sizes usually go up about 3/3 cm on either side. So about 3 cm overall

Yes, compared to ones that I wear.

So if patterns go up 3cm. What should I do? Size down?

This is a simple 2 hour job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Size it down to one that you like in your wardrobe. Don't forget the seam allowance

Tbh, with a tracing wheel, if you've got one you like in your wardrobe, you can usually take a pattern off that. Don't really need a tracing wheel...

And balance the sizing, same amount off each side seam

Would you go with the pattern or take it off the dress I like?

The dress is very simple. Could I buy tracing paper and go ahead?

99p shop greaseproof paper is what I use for patterns, taped together.

Lining paper is good too.

I would take it off the dress you like, as long as there are no darts or suppression in it. Fold in 1/2, lay folded edge against edge of paper. Draw round, prick through armholes and necklines. Add seam allowance and hem. Sleeves an be a bit trickier

Thank you for the help. I'm going to see if I can get lining or greaseproof paper.

I'd think greaseproof quite hard to use? Lining paper great for a one off?

I'm going for the dress I like :)

The garment I would like to take the pattern off, has the bust dart about 2" higher than I would like.
I'm tall.

Hmm bust darts are tricky without knowledge of pattern cutting. Not sure what to advise now...

I have now got a printed pattern for the sort of thing I'm after.

Could you tell me from that?

Sorry to be a pain.

Thank you Orange. I did make it :)

If (not if) darts are needed what is the benefit of the side seam vs. princess seam?