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sewing drapes/pleats into skirt

6 replies

MissFoodie · 22/06/2012 10:35

basic question here: i'm making a simple 2 seam dress. if I want to add pleats/drapes, do I sew the seams first, then do the pleats? or pin the pleats and sew the seams together with pleats in one go?

and should I pin the pleats on the reverse?

thx

OP posts:
rockinhippy · 22/06/2012 12:43

Thats impossible to answer without knowing more,

pleats for example would be best pinned & then sewn,

if its drape & its gauged (roughly gathered up) then you can sometimes get away with doing this after the seam is closed, but it really depends on where the gauging is

Also usually your pattern needs to allow for the gauging/pleats, so that the cloth is there in cutting - the only time you might get away with this is if BOTH sides of a skirt are gauged & you've lengthened your pattern to allow for the gauging

HTH

MissFoodie · 22/06/2012 14:49

am improvising as no pattern but v wide fabric, so room for error!
honestly, trying to find a decent pattern is hell, everything is circa 1982....

OP posts:
JamNan · 23/06/2012 13:33

Where are the pleats going? Are you making basic shift dress and adding pleats around the hem? If so, sew your side seams first, press and neaten then add you pleated panel. It's often a good idea to do the hem of the pleats first, tack the pleats in place and press then add to the bodice.

Always best to press as you go.

Or are you adding a gathered skirt?

rockinhippy · 23/06/2012 14:25

Sorry only just realised it was you posting about the Lanvin dress Blush

I'm afraid that style, even if its simplified with side seams, WOULD require the gauging to be on the pattern & in reply to your last comment on the other thread - yes simple styles like this one can be very deceiving - they look very simple, but often are the most difficult type of patterns to cut well - though got to add to me is DOES look very 80s :)

How quickly do you need it ?? - if its not quick - I'm part way through working on a tutorial for a top pattern to add to my blog that might help with cutting a similar pattern to this

MissFoodie · 23/06/2012 19:31

oh, let me have link to your blog! need all the help I can get!
tbh I finished it, made a basic long t shirt dress with kimono sleeves, it's a thickish jersey so kind of drapes naturally, not bad for first attempt!
have to work on my seams, can't get them straight yet...!
also having issues with the bobbin thread tension....have loosened it but still get tangling when doing reverse stitch....v annoying

OP posts:
rockinhippy · 23/06/2012 19:53

its not ready yet, so no point

but re; your thread tension - are you using the correct type of needles ??

jersey fabrics need ball point needles, or you can end up with looping, puckering or skipped stitches

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