We went because we had family friends who moved there & our teenaged dc were friends & wanted to see each other so we went without huge expectations & enjoyed it far more than we thought we might
We went in October over a couple of years & the weather was ideal for us - around 18 / 20 degrees so super pleasant but not scorchio & it was busy & buzzy but far less so than highly season
We stayed in the same apartment each time in the old town & it was perfect for us. We were there a week each trip.
We got into a nice routine where dh would go out to get us coffees & churros in the mornings (he had his favourite spots) & I'd have a lie in. Then he'd head off to the beach for a swim & I'd shower / get ready & go for a long stroll through the old town. I'd bring my book & had some fav cafes I'd stop at for a coffee & people watching or reading
Dh would meet me for lunch & we'd have a beer / sangria etc & a stroll.
The first visit we did the galleries & museums - Picasso & moden art etc acc the roman ruins so didn't feel the need to repeat on subsequent trips. It was v relaxing.
Most days we'd go back to the apartment & have a siesta & shower etc before heading out for the evening. There are some beautiful wine bars & nice restaurants so we'd have a leisurely meal after a stroll & go for a late night drink. It's a late night kind of city.
In between all that we were meeting the teens & taking them for dinner etc
On our last trip we visited the hamman spa which was fabulous & a lovely treat.
It has a lot less of the stuff we generally love on a trip & it's closer to a 'week relaxing doing v little' than we usually do but we surprised ourselves by loving it