To think high quality clothes are not actually high quality?

[LadyDimpletonFrisby]

Been noticing a huge drop in quality over the years as I am sure many MNers are aware. It isn't just the high street though. In fact, considering some of the more expensive mistakes I have made, I might as well have gone to poundland.

So, in the last few years I have purchased some reputedly good stuff from the likes of Brora, Toast, Oska, Finisterre and various other ethical or well made brands. On the high street end I have bought knitwear from COS, John Lewis and NavyGrey. Most of these are strongly recommended online as an alternative to landfill tat.

Well, 2 of my Finisterre wool knits have formed holes, one a the neck and two on the back. My COS merino has also formed holes and has become thinner and badly fitting over a few months. My Toast stuff has bobbled to the point where it looks shabby as opposed to chic, no matter how carefully I wash by hand and dry appropriately. I follow instructions carefully and look after my clothes, and don't tend to pull them out of shape, etc.

I then tried Seasalt, but the tops were getting thinner and cheaper looking, whilst the prices remained the same. I have also noticed massive drops in quality when replacing an item that I love - Sweaty Betty took a drop in the space of one year with wildly different fabric thickness within a short time for the same item.
Even luxury nightwear has sunk, as a £75 set of pyjamas from White Company was noticeably thinner and badly finished compared to a year previous. I had purchased the new one as a gift for a family member and was able to see how awful they were next to my own - the price had also shot up to nearly £90 in this time too.

I am considering just quitting really, focusing on practical stuff as I am outdoors a lot, and just hoping things improve eventually. I can't see it though. I have tried the second hand route and for the most part, it isn't a perfect solution as many of the items are either smelly or visibly worn out on arrival.

I agree OP. Not sure what the solution is apart from having things tailor made from fabric I have personally chosen. It’s not something I have done however as tailors (beyond alterations people) don’t exist in our neck of the woods and I suspect the London tailors may be more used to making a man’s suit than running up a skirt or dress for a woman. Everyone please correct me if I’m wrong.

Oh and depressingly, the one item of clothing I’ve been impressed with—a white organic cotton nightdress made of lovely thick fabric— cannot be replaced when it wears out as the company that made it has gone bust. However having said that, if your knitwear is regularly going in holes, please ensure you always keep it in a plastic case as moths can wreak havoc.

I have a few items that were made before the drop, and am scared of them wearing out. I noticed this many years ago but there has been a distinct and unashamed drop since covid all across the board. Even brands that prided themselves on 'heritage' or locally sourced goods have just brazenly sold out yet upped the prices.

Even a new and lovely brand called Findra now produce soon to be shapeless and hole ridden merino. Much sturdier clothes are a better choice, but not always appropriate (for some workplaces) or lifestyles. Not everyone wants to exist in burlap box-shaped dungarees woven on top of mount Snowden

You’re spot on. It’s a nightmare. Even the likes of Hobbs and Cos, overpriced better tailored polyester crap.

Bought some Barbour mens short wellies, they lasted all of two months before holes and falling apart. May as well of got some cheap Chinese boots on Amazon.

I’m buying foreign brands now, France still knows how to make clothes, had enough of it all.

I have bought a few items from Nobody's child recently they're on the expensive side for me (£60 for a pinafore dress, £45 for a blouse) and I'm really disappointed with the quality. I felt like the material went all big and baggy after a couple of hours and I've only been washed it once and I definitely think it's shrunk... I feel like I might as well have stuck to Primark 🙈

I also relying on vinted because older clothes (pre China) are made superior

Yanbu, sometime on the S&B threads there's links to clothing which I really can't see the difference from Next, Primark or cheaper. I've bought two pairs of pj's from the White company and my Primark ones are holding up so much better.

I noticed it when M&S quality went downhill. It was all cheap material made in countries with awful human rights. You used to be guaranteed quality with M&S but it's just cheap rubbish now.

It seems impossible to get good quality, ethically made, natural fibres.

And it is now catching up with men too - in M&S yesterday a 50/50% acrylic-wool jumper was £45. It felt vaguely slimy to touch, not even reminiscent of older acrylic. I have no idea what they're doing to it.
Only 8 yrs ago that jumper would have been the same price and 100% lambswool.

I admit, there are one heck of a lot of people to clothe, so how we produce decent stuff at an ethical scale that can work for everybody is a conundrum. But I do think the solution is to buy less in general. But if someone on a lowish income does that, and the clothes are shit, they will need to buy more, and more regularly :(

My complaint is that I don't think you can even buy a way out of it now, it is across the board and happening with much higher level brands, too. We are all trapped in this, really.

I certainly agree with you regarding a drop in quality.

Are you sure the holes in the knitwear is not due to moths though?

Dismayed to hear about Finisterre. Have you tried 3rd Rock? In fairness I haven’t had anything from them for a couple of years but the things I have had, have been superb quality.

Also companies that make to order- Roake Studio are very good, but quite a particular look I suppose, and there’s a company called Om Baby that also make to order. Reasonable prices. Worth a try?

I mean, since around 2010 there's been a lot of noise online about buying less at better quality. That might have been viable 10 yrs ago but it less likely now. I have used this method and a lot of the good stuff didn't last, or aged badly.

That's what I do.

All these stories of expensive clothes falling apart is absolutely awful.

I have had the Farne polo and crew necks from Finisterre, both developed holes in the back and neckline within a year. Unlike Toast, Celtic&co and NavyGrey at least they didn't bobble and fray!

Have had good luck with Fjallraven, but recent reviews are worrying

Thanks for the tips, gotta say though I am low on trust with any who bark about quality and artisanal methods now.

YANBU. Fabrics are definitely much cheaper and thinner. They are not made to last.

I am low on trust with any who bark about quality and artisanal methods now.

That’s fair. I have recently bought things from both companies I mentioned though and am really pleased so far. Nothing made of wool, however, so can’t speak to that.

I must be unlucky then, as several good pieces that I have obtained second hand or new with tags were really tired looking. I had one great experience with a tweed winter coat but that's it.

I have stuff here that I bought only 7 yrs ago and the difference is shocking. I do think there has been a massive nosedive since the pandemic, in many areas of manufacture, not even just clothes.
I have also only just started to notice mens clothes are the same, whereas they were once more reliably well made.

Totally agree. It's why I roll my eyes at the S and B forum quite a lot. I am buying my summer clothes in another country now and my winter clothes in posh charity shops ( which are almost as expensive as the high street).

I've never had any issues with Izzy Lane, &Daughter, and Navy Grey for knitwear. COS quality isn't as good as it was 15 years ago, unfortunately, but it's still one of the best shops on the high street for quality. Margaret Howell is consistently good.

Sweaty Betty and The White Company have been going downhill for years. It's pretty depressing.

True about S&B, there are always tons of recommendations for uniqlo, seasalt, etc as a solution .
Or else the usual crowd who urge us all to spend £600 on an asymmetrical prairie dress by an obscure Danish brand, etc.

I totally agree! I used to love Hobbs and Reiss, but their quality has gone downhill over the years and they still charge premium prices. Also same with shoes, Clarks shoes used to keep for ages, now they fall apart after a couple of months.

I can recommend Really Wild Clothing, their wool/cashmere jumpers have been excellent quality and their coats are beautifully tailored using quality materials. They are a bit pricey, but I wait for the sales.

I have a couple of charity shop cashmere jumpers from 30 years ago going by old style labels so much better than anything for sale even in the expensive stores. Cotton t shirts are all just about see through now too.

The vast majority of high street clothing is made in Asia.

bobbles can be gotten rid of and it’s common in woollen clothes, you just need to purchase a pile brush or an electric bobble buster.

I also think the widespread appearance of alpaca in everything or mixed into everything (at brora, poetry, and other higher priced shops) was no coincidence.

It appeared just at the point where quality over all the market just dropped through the floor. I noticed at the time that they weren't putting it into men's knitwear, and when that happens, you can pretty much tell something's up.

This was also contemporaneous with 'eco vero', something else you never saw splattered all over men's stuff.

(I do know how to remove bobbles and pills, it isn't helping the overall appearance of the garments though nowadays)