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AIBU?

Share your dilemmas and get honest opinions from other Mumsnetters.

To ask for any ideas/inspiration for a holiday in Marseille?

17 replies

GoldOnyx · 06/08/2024 10:44

Planning to visit Marseille for a family break for 5 nights. It’s somewhere we’ve wanted to visit for a while and it sounds lovely.

We’re planning to fly there from the U.K., and I have a few ideas for places we could visit while we’re there (e.g. explore the town and Vieux Port, have a couple of beach days, visit the Calanques national park and maybe visit a nearby town).

We won’t have a car with us and aren’t planning to hire one. Marseille itself looks very walkable and we’ll just use public transport - train or bus - to get to places like the Calanques or nearby towns that are nice to visit and close enough to get to and spend a few hours there.

In terms of where to stay, I’m keen on an apartment, which will give us more space than a hotel room and more flexibility in terms of catering options. We’d like to aim for a mix of eating out and having the flexibility to make our own meals (I’m a big fan of French supermarkets, and love the idea of a picnic dinner with lots of lovely French cheese, bread, cold meat, salad, fresh fruit, nibbles etc.) I know there are a few areas that not particularly safe, so obviously keen to avoid those, but I don’t think they’re particularly close to the centre, and we’d like to stay as close to the centre if we can, so perhaps this won’t be an issue. We also speak decent French, so can use that whenever needed.

Would be grateful if you have any ideas please on other things we could do while we’re there, any recommendations for places we must visit and anywhere good to stay. Thank you!

OP posts:
Liveafr · 06/08/2024 11:48

That sounds lovely. I recommend spending one day in Aix en Provence (very easy with the train) or Aubagne.
Parc du Prado is great for a picnic.
The closest beach to city centre is plage du prophète but I don't recommend it. Most people go to plage du Prado.

Liveafr · 06/08/2024 11:52

Oh I forgot:

  • MUCEM museum
  • Notre dame de la garde
  • Noailles market
99victoria · 06/08/2024 12:01

Do you speak French? My son lived in Marseilles for 2 years and I discovered they don't really like speaking English there 🤣

Bjorkdidit · 06/08/2024 12:03

If you've not already seen it, the Travel Man series on All 4 had an episode on Marseille that's a good introduction to the city and some of the less obvious things to see and do.

Hummingbirdie · 06/08/2024 12:05

We stayed at La Ciotat nearby. Was fab, walking the calanques was amazing!

Lifeinlists · 06/08/2024 12:11

The train ride to Nice is worth doing in itself. Very scenic and you can get last minute cheaper tickets via OuiGo. Nice is lovely for a day trip.

Also in Marseille go up to the church Notre Dame de la Garde, the one that overlooks the city and bay. You can get a cheap bus ride up there if you don't fancy the walk. The view over the Bay of Marseille is fabulous from there.
Marseille is a really interesting place with such variety.

Soluckyinlove · 06/08/2024 12:13

The one and only time that I wished that I had the use of a kitchen on holiday was in Marseille, after wandering around the outdoor market and fish market. The fish had just come ashore, and all the food looked amazing. I found the people there much the same as elsewhere in France....if you try and speak French they will go out of their way to help you.

NeverDropYourMooncup · 06/08/2024 12:16

99victoria · 06/08/2024 12:01

Do you speak French? My son lived in Marseilles for 2 years and I discovered they don't really like speaking English there 🤣

Well, the OP makes the comment 'We also speak decent French, so can use that whenever needed', so I'd think they do.

GoldOnyx · 06/08/2024 14:33

Thanks so much, all!

We’re looking at booking an apartment in the Vieux Port area and 2nd arrondissement of Marseille, around 8 minutes from La Joliette metro and 10 mins from Marseille St Charles train station. Being near a train station and a metro stop would be great, as we don’t have a car. Also, the apartment seems very nice and has everything we need, and it looks quite central.

Just wondered if the general area where the apartment is sounds good, or if we should look somewhere else instead?

Thanks!

OP posts:
yetanotherusername9183837 · 06/08/2024 14:36

Following as DS is keen for me to take him to Marseille - huge trainer culture (?) there apparently.

Plus I met a lovely man from Marseille when on holiday in Bergerac last month and he asked me why more Britis didn't go there as he said it was lovely.

TonyeKnausgaard · 06/08/2024 14:43

I stayed in the Old Port area. I highly recommend it. It's beautiful.

I recommend a day trip on the train to Cassis when you're there. Cassis is paradise!

Dahliasrule · 06/08/2024 14:48

We visited Marseille in the60s so probably not much use to you now. It did have a lovely beach. I just wanted to recommend the calanques which are nearby. We stayed in Cassis which was lovely and still I, I believe,

GoldOnyx · 06/08/2024 16:34

Thanks very much again everyone 😊

So far, my thinking is: we’ll spend some time exploring Marseille and the beaches (e.g. Plage du Prado), do a couple of day trips to Aix en Provence and Cassis and also visit the Calanques.

Please do pop in any other suggestions you have about stuff to do and see in and around Marseille - would love to hear any other ideas.

OP posts:
GoldOnyx · 06/08/2024 20:17

Just coming back to ask if anyone has any suggestions for nice local places to eat that aren’t too pricey? Have just been having a look online and also watching the All4 Travelman episode on Marseille, but would be great if anyone has any further recommendations. Thanks!

OP posts:
GoldOnyx · 07/08/2024 09:21

Sorry to spam this thread a bit with my messages 😂 I just wondered if anyone has any suggestions for places to eat in Marseille that have good food and a nice vibe and that aren’t too expensive? Thanks!

OP posts:
PrincessOlga · 07/08/2024 09:27

You have to take a boat ride out to the Chateau d'If, where the Count of Monte Cristo was imprisoned (fictionally, obviously).

Marseille is my favourite city in the whole world and what I like best is just walking along the Corniche. It is not far from you, a walkway and a road by the sea that provides lovely views of the deep blue sea, with the Chateau d'If to the south, and les Calanques to the east.

Other things:

Vieux Port (old harbour): watching fishermen selling their stock by auction is a must. Arriving to Marseille in the Vieux-Port on a summer evening is something you will never forget... You can watch this show by going to Frioul islands or Chateau d'If and going back late in the afternoon. there is also a nice view on the harbor from the Palais du Pharo (Pharo Palace). The famous Canebière avenue goes straight down the harbour.

Notre Dame de la Garde: the big church which overlooks the city. Old fishermen used to have their boats blessed in this church. You can still see many boat models hanging around in the church. From there it is one of the nicest view of the city.

Cours Julien and la plaine: a hangout area with bookstores, cafés, fountains, and a playground for the small ones (metro stop Cours Julien/Notre Dame du Mont). It is THE trendy area of Marseille.

Place Castellane: a roundabout with a grand fountain/column/sculpture in the center, with excellent cinemas and cafés surrounding.

Boulevard Longchamp and Palais Longchamp (Longchamp castle and avenue). From the Réformé church (up the Canebière) you can follow the Boulevard Longchamp where you can see nice example of old upper-class buildings to arrive to Palais Longchamp. The palais is worth visiting though it won't take you long.

Parc Borély (Borely park). A large and great park, 300 meters from the sea. After a siesta in the park go have a drink at Escale Borely to see the sunset.

Le Panier. Panier means basket in French, but in Marseille it is the name of the oldest area of the town. In the middle of this area there is the Vielle Charité, a wonderful old monument, now hosting museums and exhibitions.

Unité d'Habitation: designed by Le Corbusier. The building is called "la maison du fada" (the house of the foolish) by indigenous people. The building contains a shopping street, a church, a children's school and housings. You can get to the roof and enjoy the breathtaking view of Marseille between hills and sea.

Noailles: The area around the Noailles sub-way station is one of the city’s most interesting. Arabic and Indo-Chinese shops, could be part of a bazzaar in Algeria.

Advice: The church of Notre-Dame de la Garde, perched up on a hill, is interesting to visit; you will see many ship ex-votoes (offerings placed by sailors) on the walls. The view from the plaza over the coast is magnificent. The old port is interesting to walk through, and there is a good shopping street nearby. There are a number of good museums if those interest you and the lovely Parc Borély.

Gardens around the Musee des Beaux Arts a few years ago. Very beautiful and lovely atmosphere - full of families enjoying a Sunday afternoon out. Gorgeous gardens and fountains and a beautiful building. It's about (I think) half an hour's walk from the port.

It only takes 30 min max to go to the frioul, there are boats every 15 or 30 min approx departing from the vieux port. They will stop at the other island (chateau d'if) first, drop some passenger and carry on the the Frioul. The island is quite small and there is a little train that will take you to the last beach,on the island then you can walk to the highest point. You can spend as little or as long at the frioul, it is really up to what you want to do: sit on the beach and relax or have a quick look around and return to marseille.
My advice for a better day would be:

  1. Drive to the parc Longchamp, have a quick stop right in front of the parc at the entrance and look at the "palace", there is not anything else to see really.
  2. Go to the parc du pharo (2 minutes drive from the vieux port, 15 min from Longchamp), there you will have some wonderful views of the vieux port, the town...there is also Napoleon palace there (much nicer than the Longchamp). Nightmare to park though, try the small streets close to the parc.
  3. Off to the Frioul, but I would advice you to stop at the island of Chateau d'If too as you can visit the prison (the legend of Montecristo), and then go to the Frioul.
  4. Back to Marseille, you have to go to the Prado and have a drink or ice cream and then a little walk on the beachfront. To get to the Prado, drive on the corniche JF Kennedy, beautiful views and all the way on the coast line. It will take you approx 20 min from the vieux port but it is a really nice drive.
PrincessOlga · 07/08/2024 09:32

You could also have a day in Aix and climb Sainte-Victoire, famously painted by Cézanne. There are buses between Aix and Marseille. Personally, I would rather stay in Marseille the whole time. But if you do decide to go, you catch Bus 140 in Aix at the stop Arts et Metiers, which is at the start of Cours des Arts et Métiers (turn left off Cours Saint-Louis). Get off at JO4 Saint-Marc-Jaumegarde (the stops before are Collongue, J09 Saint-Marc-Jaumegarde, Les Verans).

Hike up the Blue trail, starting from bus stop J04, up to the Sainte-Victoire Priory. The trail is rocky and exposed. Head down the other side of Sainte-Victoire to Vauvenargues using the Red and White trail, which is clear and wide, but very steep. Each way takes about two hours. Start from the dam and end in Vauvenargues due to the steepness of the trail back down.

From the J04 stop it is a short hike to the Barrage de Bimont dam. Walking across the dam, you get a great view of the beautiful teal-coloured lake. After crossing the dam, the Blue Trail begins on the left. It is important to follow the painted markers, as parts of the trail can be confusing with trails splitting into smaller trails. A marker with a straight line indicates you are going the right way, while an X means you are going in the wrong direction.

At the end of the Blue trail you go by the Sainte-Victoire Priory. This little refuge was built in the seventeenth century as a reminder of a fifth-century hermit who found safety in this spot. The Croix de Provence (Cross of Provence) is another fifteen minutes up the mountain.

After taking in the views at the top of Sainte-Victoire, take the Red and White trail down to Vauvenargues. For the first twenty minutes or so, it is a rocky and narrow path with switchbacks similar to the Blue Trail. But soon you reach a spot where the path opens up wide enough for a car to drive through. It is very steep and a bit slippery with small loose rocks. When you reach Vauvenargues, you can admire Picasso’s Château de Vauvenargues from a distance before hopping back on the L140 bus to Aix-en-Provence.

Apparently, there is both a Red trail and a Red and White trail going from Vauvenargues up to Sainte-Victoire; it sounds like the Red trail is more difficult. Another approach is from bus line 110, alighting at Maison Sainte Victoire. Be careful of timing, because the 110 and 140 buses run no more often than every two hours. The lake and dam are so beautiful themselves that it is tempting to add them to going up and down the mountain itself.

Bus 140 back takes 33 minutes and to arrives back at Mouret Gare Routiere Quai 21.

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