Quick query (hopefully) for anyone knowledgeable on cars?

[MiMiChuna]

Got a 9 year old Yaris from Toyota dealer 4 months ago.

Have noticed when in reverse & I let my foot off accelerator, the revs give an extra burst of revs before dropping down to idle.

Similarly in gears 1 & 2, when I put the clutch in to change gears up, there's a similar effect altho less pronounced. Nothing noticeable in gears 3, 4, 5.

I'm covered by the warranty at the mo & have some wiggle room being in the 1st 6 months after purchase I think but I want to go in armed with some idea what's causing this to happen so they don't fob me off.

Can anyone help please?

If it makes a difference, car has 45k on the clock. TIA!

The revs should never go up when you take your foot off the accelerator. Dirty carburettor?
Whatever, you should take it in while still in warranty.

Take it into the supplying dealership and the warranty garage. If you have any problems with them fixing the issues log a complaint with the finance company as the issues with the car could potentially make it not durable. The finance company are technically the suppliers of your car and so are responsible for its quality. Keep any receipts or invoices

Is a vvti engine? You know in a car park you hear old people ( usually) revving their engine and their cars aren't moving , mine did that when I wasn't doing anything.

Sorry that hasn't really helped.

Argh no finance to fall vacation on in a situation like this.
But I did pay over £6k of the balance on my cc if that covers me somehow.

Never had any issues with my 20 yr old yaris I traded in for this one. Just an expensive electrical issue costs mire than the xar was worth for me to get fixed so I traded up I thought. I miss my old yaris everyday.

Yes under section 75

Something odd here. It should NOT be doing this.

possiblY an issue with the throttle position sensor?

How many miles has it done? Can you get it checked independently? (AA or other membership.) if you take it back to the dealer they will almost certainly say “they all do that” or “nothing wrong here!”

So you need to arm yourself with actual info about his exact model. Really, do your research - Google the issue and be prepared to read Yaris forums and LEARN before you take on the dealer, spend an hour learning. Do not get fobbed off because you’re a woman.

ps- BTW, most cars built after say … 1989 will have fuel injection, not a carburettor. PP mentioning dirty carb would apply if it was a Morris minor or similar. Otherwise no. The garage would have hysterical giggles if you take your 2013 Toyota back and complain about the carb.

@Plmnki I have no idea, I had a quick look on Google but it's hard to know what to search. Possible clutch problem came up but it might be wrong if I searched with not quite the right phrase.

I have another quirk that's bothering me which I need to check out & go armed. A tyre v slowly loosing pressure, after researching I'm worried its the alloy rusting on the inside as the was evidence of the finish blistering when I bought it, I queried this (didn't realise rust caused it & they didnt specify when I said why's it gone like that) they had someone out to fix the alloy so it looked new at pickup but maybe they only did the part seen. I'm not sure how I'd find out. Argh. I hate this, why can't ppl be honest & decent.

My first thought would be a sticky accelerator cable but this could well have a drive by wire throttle. A sticky accelerator pedal possibly? Also, are you 100% sure it’s not something you’re doing? Silly I know, but have you got someone else who drives it and does it do it for them?

@Shade17 only me who drives, I've been driving constantly for 30 yrs & it's not something that's ever happened before from the style of how I drive.

Ok fair point, im not familiar with a Yaris.
the thing that delivers the fuel being dirty.

Really difficult to know without being in the car when in happens.

For example, you say you're letting the gas off in reverse. What is the clutch position? Is it still at the biting point? If so the engine is still under load, and the ECU may be fairly aggressive in trying to prevent a stall by adding gas itself.

Actually as I type I'm wondering about the clutch hydraulics or release bearing. If the clutch is struggling to fully disengage when depressed you could see something like this especially in the low gear ratios (which includes reverse) - same thing again the ECU is detecting the load on the engine at low revs and adding gas to keep the engine alive. (EDIT: should have asked if the biting point is very low or if you have any trouble physically getting it into the lower gears?)

Yes at times I've found it 'cluncky' to get into 1st gear & reverse. Mentioned it to garage, it went in after about 2 months for this amongst a few other niggles I'd noticed, they said they'd looked at it but the problem didn't show for them.
There is a creak that I've noticed in low gears too when going over uneven road surfaces eg humps or a slope in the road as I am turning a corner, i also mentioned this 2 months in, they took my car for a 10 mile drive while it was with them 'to check" but say it didn't appear. I should've challenged that distance (mile-ometer confirmed distance) as in hindsight this is really odd to go so far surely. Plus, the creak happens on a road a stones throw from dealer most days when I take the kids to school.
I've been ill for a few months so not fully on the ball in situations like this.
But it's making me worried they're fobbing me off & I'm being taken for a fool.
But I also don't know enough about cars to challenge properly & have no one to come with me to face them.

Trouble is 1st and reverse are always the hardest gears to get into mechanically, especially reverse because of how it all works, so clunky can be quite normal (I've mostly been driving Corsas for years and they are typically horribly clunky in 1st especially but that is totally normal for them).

Does the rev issue always happen or just sometimes? And does the clutch feel normal when you push down (not too light and easy to move)?

A 10 mile test drive to try and recreate a problem doesn't sound massively out of order. They would want to have the car warmed up and operating at a range of speeds and conditions.

The creak is probably suspension related but likely not sinister if you are not hearing it a lot (and should have been easy to spot either on a test drive or up on a ramp if something was knackered.

You're asking MN for advice when the garage will have time served and qualified technicians?

And quite clearly Mumsnet has the odd time served and qualified technicians here who are offering advice.
Or did you just want to piss on someone’s chips tonight?

Yes.

1. Someone might've had experience of similar with their car
2. I hoped for ideas of what it could be so the garage didn't think I was clueless or they didn't try to pull the wool over my eyes to avoid doing work (the car comes out of its warranty soon so I'd have to pay rather than them)
3. Someone might be trained in cars & recognise what I've described

If you can't help, just move along? There's no need to comment to try to undermine someone else.