Dog owners cannot expect others to understand the details and intricacies of training a dog, dog behaviour etc etc.
I do think it reasonable that they understand human behaviour and have the common courtesy NOT to run up behind or pass people with only a foot or two to spare though.
However, that isn't the case, and we can't force people to behave politely or thoughtfully to others, so we have to train and handle dogs on the understanding that everyone else out there, is a twat.
Don't walk your dog where runners will pass close by, run up behind silently, where you can't get lots of space.
Avoiding your dog 'practicing' this behaviour or, being repeatedly startled or feeling threatened by runners/cyclists etc, is the first step to addressing the issue.
Spend some time teaching your dog that all the distracting noises and movements they see outside are markers or predictors for reward. In the same way that a clicker or a verbal marker like 'yes!' can be paired with a reinforcer to become a conditioned stimuli, so can all these sounds and movements you experience outdoors.
This means spending some time in a safe environment (door way, gate way, sitting in the back of the car, sitting on a bench somewhere) observing and classically conditioning to those events.
Once you have a dog who is automatically looking at you when they experience these conditioned markers, you're ready to think about walking where people may be jogging - but not every day, not every walk - start out simple and very minimal, and again strongly reinforcing seeing runners, hearing them, etc.
Be aware of 'trigger stacking' - dog has coped with jogger 1, juuuuuust about coped with jogger 2... but the next day, its jogger 3 that causes the reaction. This happens because stress hormones do not drop within minutes or hours, they can take days to come back down. So factoring this in and ensuring easy stress free walks or avoiding walks in favour of training sessions, trips to secure fields etc helps training be more efficient, and trigger stacking less likely to occur.
I'd also teach your dog a 'close' cue (when I walked it would be the dog targeting my leg with their shoulder, now its them targeting my arm rest with nose or leg rest with nose depending on height of dog) so you can ask for that behaviour before the runner passes and then reward for it after. A close cue or a 'behind' (dog walks behind you) can be really useful for going round blind corners or tight sections where there isn't much passing room.
Unfortunately it is VERY easy for a single event learning experience to set everything back again, so just one twat runs up behind and startles both dog and handler, and you can be back to the beginning. So I would really avoid popular jogging areas, narrow paths, surfaces where you can't hear runners approaching. Even after you've improved the response to seeing runners with plenty of warning.