to ask for help with my car issues

[carprobs]

Sorry, shamelessly posting here for traffic, and help because I don't have anyone in RL to ask (my DP would have been my go to person as he is super knowledgeable on car matters, but we split up earlier this year and I'm NC with him, so...)

I've got a 12yo car. Had it for 2 years and bought it cheap, £1500. Engine wise its pretty reliable, starts first time every time, gets me from A to B. Easy to drive, etc etc. I don't do a lot of miles - about 5-600 a year (I used to do more driving to visit DP, not now obviously!). But...since I've had it I've had to spend a fair bit on it, so far:

£300 on an issue with the temperature gauge (I knew that was there when I bought it and got £200 off the price, but the work cost more than expected)
£400 to get it through the MOT last year (rear brakes and discs, rear shock absorber and front coil)
£300 earlier this year on a new alternator

It's now in for it's MOT again, and I got a call to say there's an electrical (?) issue with it, not sure what but none of the rear lights are working. There's also a problem with the parking brake, and the rear brakes are binding (I think that's the word used). They're looking into it but at present they don't know what the issue with the electrics or the brakes is so at present can't tell me how much it will be to fix.

I'd mentally assigned £400 to this MOT, much like last year, but I'm now wondering how much it's likely to cost - will it be much more than £400? What do I do if it's more? How much becomes too much to spend?

Still no news on the car. I'm hoping this means they're doing other work on other cars rather than that they've spent 3 hours trying to work out the problem

I actually didn't explain that well the original MOT certificate remains in place but the failure means the car isn't roadworthy and can't be driven or taxed as it isn't roadworthy. The original one is still technically valid but can't be deemed to show that the vehicle is roadworthy. Basically, once it's failed it's failed.

Only where there are dangerous fails otherwise you can continue to drive it. The car must remain roadworthy though.

The brake calipers can get gunked up over time which stops the retracting after braking . There are caliper rebuild kits but if your paing a garage to do it. Labour and the kit will be around the same price as new calipers, not really worth rebuilding unless your doing it yours self

@carprobs

Theres a website called clickmechanic. It worth going on there to get a rough idea on the cost of repairs

Why would she need to change garage????????

Because of what they're saying is wrong with it, brakes lights etc, I'd be minded to consider sucking up the cost of repairs and carry on with it. 2nd hand cars are expensive right now and you may have the same stuff go wrong/need replacing in the replacement car. The electrics might only need a fuse or relay to fix, both not expensive. Replacement Brakes and tyres are inevitable in a cars lifetime, alternators too.
If they were talking about severe corrosion needing welding as well then I wouldn't bother repairing it as it's obviously on the way out.

If it were me, I'd pay to get it fixed if it's around £500ish and I had the cash. You'll have the car with a valid Mot for the next 12 months and better the devil you know type thing, especially with older cars. But if you don't have the money and can cope without the car then get rid.

I live in a semi rural town and public transport is hit and miss so a car is a necessity, but if I lived in a city, I'd happily be without one and just rent one when I needed it.

But this would be my last spend on it. Things like the brakes and associated costs are ones you would have with a new or old car so I would disassociate those costs as they are maintenance.

I typically run older cars as well and factor in around £1500 worth of repairs during its life times with me. Still works out cheaper than getting a car on finance, I have a car to get me from A to B and has to have space for all our crap.

Only yesterday I was weighing up getting a car on finance or PCP but decided against it. I hate debt and with the cost of living going up, I'd rather start saving extra for what I can now towards my next car. Which again will be an older car but around 9/10 years old when I buy it.

Still no update as yet. Really hoping they are not still investigating. I'm telling myself they've not looked at it yet and are getting other stuff out of the way first. Or it's ended up being a really simple issue that's only costing £100 to repair so they're going ahead and I'll get a call soon to say it can be collected...that's probably wishful thinking!

I've decided that anything up to £600 is a definite yes (I have the cash, it's mentally allocated to other things but those will have to wait now), possibly £7-800. Much above that I think I might have to cut my losses. I do have breakdown cover so worst case I will be able to get it recovered back here as it can't be driven.

I considered getting a PCP/ lease car before this one but they're a lot of money and I'd worry driving a new car about it getting scratched or dinged. My car is really practical for tip runs and that kind of thing, which I wouldn't want to do in a shiny new car!

I'd change your garage.

That’s daft advice based on the info the OP has given us.

The binding could be due to a seized calliper, brake shoes disintegrating, seized handbrake linkage. Any number of things that may have been working properly at the time the pads and discs were changed.

Beware of getting your breakdown service to bring it back to your house from the garage they are likely to refuse or charge you

Because if the brakes are binding then they didn't do a proper job last year when they replaced the discs and pads. You are supposed to free off the hand brake mechanism, clean it, make sure it works properly and use the correct lubrication before winding back the caliper and fitting the news parts, ensuring the carrier and caliper are also clear of dirt and corrosion and are free to move and operate properly. Calipers don't sieze if they are serviced properly.

Calipers don't sieze if they are serviced properly.

How do you service the calliper pistons?

I'm the same as you, I'd be scared of scratching and not wanting to get a nice shiny new car dirty! Plus the depreciation on a new car is scary, where else would be buy something new for it lose money in such a steep way in the first month alone! We wouldn't.

From my poking about in the Internet last night, lease vehicles tend to have to be immaculate whereas PCP tends to be a bit more forgiving. This is all anecdotal though!

Having said that though I do still keep going back to cazoo and similar and looking at 4/5 year old cars and dreaming 🙄

Brake fluid is hydroscopic so you change the fluid at regular intervals to prevent corrosion within the system. You also replace seals, using the proper lubricant, as per the manual, to prevent the rubber from perishing, preventing the ingress of dirt, grit, and water to the caliper/piston. You wind back the piston using the proper tool and ensure all components are free to move and operate as they should.

I have a 30-year-old Land Rover which is used off-road and on the family farm in Dorset. It regularly gets covered in mud, crap, and shit. I have never had to replace a caliper and or wheel cylinder.

My grandfather taught me to drive a tractor and a Landrover at the age of 15. He also taught me how to service and repair it along with other agriculture equipment and machinery. Farming is a tough business. He wasn't Jeremy Clarkson driving a ridiculous Lamborghini ( clearly making up for a size deficiency elsewhere !!!!!). We serviced and repaired all equipment ourselves.

I may live in SE London and work for the NHS but know one end of a spanner from the other.

Most of that probably should be done for preventative measures. But op probably only paid for discs and pads to be changed . Most garages will just remove and replace unless theres other issues.

12yr old cars get crusty, and as another posted has suggested it could just the hand break cable that has seized

Certainly not worth writing off a other wise good garage for it

Didn't hear back from the garage yesterday. Hoping for some news today. Bit concerned.

Call them and ask for an update. The squeaky wheel gets the oil...

I called and left a message. Not heard back yet.

Really hoping I'm not going to get a big bill for the investigation.

Any news?

Yes, they called back yesterday to say it was fixed and to collect. Cost me £600ish in the end.

its a lot of money but still cheaper than buying another car which may have similar issues. Better the devil you know esp since you said it was a good runner.

Did they say what was causing the electrical fault ?

Who is doing the MOT. Because this is exactly what I was told by Bristol Street motors and they wanted 900 to fix it. Took it to a mobile mechanic I know and he did it for 230. Said they were ripping me off.

Halfords are known for this as well, wanted 600 to replace shoes and pads. Same mobile mechanic did it for 180 and since he started doing all its work its miraculously started passing every year instead of always failing every year on brakes.

Oh my gosh cars 😩 I'm glad you got yours fixed within budget!
Yesterday we spent £305 on our 6 year old Renault Kadjar, it needed two new front tyres & front pads & discs. Then last night we noticed one of the headlights have gone so later we've got a trip to replace & fit it before it's MOT tomorrow.
If it fails on something else after all this money I'm SORN'ing it there and then!! 😂
It wouldn't have been so bad affording it if we didn't both have to take a couple days off work last month for norovirus, but because of that we lost money. Nevermind.

The wiring to the hatchback door needed replaced, plus new rear calipers both sides and a couple of other minor bits.

It's done now. But it was a lot of money. Albeit cheaper than gambling on another second hand car I guess.