Cockerpoo Puppy arriving in 10 days - help

[ShallallalAa]

Posting for traffic and advice thanking you all ever so much - we put our names down for a cockapoo puppy from a registered breeder months ago and the puppy will be ready for collection in 2 weeks. We are confident the breeder is reputable and have had personal recommendations for them which we trust. I work from home 80 percent of the time now so confident we can look after the puppy properly long term.
I have never owned a dog before but DP has always had dogs and I am feeling very out of my depth, especially with the arrival during lockdown.
We have visited the breeder and met the parents before the lockdown but we have not met the puppy before lockdown. We have been sent regular videos and all looks lovely and I trust that that the puppy is well and healthy.
DP will pick up puppy by physically distancing from the breeder at handover, taking all the precautions and the breeder is about 5 miles away - I think this would be classed as essential travel wouldnt it?
We are going to pick up essentials from Pets At Home in the next couple of days - crate, toys, bed, pads, food. Anything else? The puppy is on a raw meat diet I understand should we continue this?

What are your top puppy /cockerpoo puppy tips?

What will we do about puppy socialisation?

The puppy arrives microchipped (breeder does it) with first vaccines but we do the next ones - need to find a vet we like I am guessing?

I don't like the sound of crating though - is rhis really the only way?

Our house is quite small - where should the puppy have its own space ideally?

Should I get a shark pet hoover to deal with the hairs?

Thank you!!

You’re going to contact the police? Seriously? Don’t you think they’ve got enough to do without ridiculous question about whether collecting a puppy is essential? Anybody with an iota of common sense can tell you that it’s not essential.

@Quizacabusi has given you excellent information about everything apart from Lepto 4. This link gives you the actual data from the veterinary medicines directorate who collects all the adverse reaction reports.
The vaccine is four strains of the same disease a bit like the flu vaccine covers several strains of that virus.
What is really, really important is that your puppy is vaccinated with the same brand as the breeder's vet has given for the first vaccination.

Make sure you get a good brush for the fur type. If your unsure ask the breeder and brush your pup daily. It will get them used to it really quickly and stops mats forming since you won't be able to get to the groomer for a while.

Breeders are allowed to deliver puppies.

It's their work, their job and it can not be done from home.

Theres no rule that says only essential work can go ahead.

Oh my goodness! You are mad to even try this. The times ahead will be so difficult but please keep in your mind that a year or two down the line you will have the most beautiful, loyal family pet. It takes enormous work bit what special little loyal amazing friends

I had to do a home hair cut yesterday

Definitely sign up for a Zoom puppy training course. We have been doing ours that way.
Most important thing is love them and consistency. They are very rewarding.

I can recommend the Facebook page dog training advice and support. They have useful guidance on puppy's, crate training, socialisation under lockdown and countering separation anxiety.

no advice, but do post a photo when he/she arrives 🐶

It's 5 miles away - tie in collecting pup with a trip to the supermarket. Look at getting a harness/collar and lead as you can get pup used to it in the home. There is also absolutely loads you can do for socialising atm. If you visit the doghouse section on here there's a very good thread dedicated to the topic of socialising in lockdown. Things like taking pup out when the bins are collected. Having dc skateboard past, take out for walk in puppy sling (a good addition to the shopping list - available on amazon).

We are due to get ours in just over a week and she will have had her first vaccinations so vets will complete.

Dd is watching videos on YouTube on puppy training and already has a firm understanding on how to teach them their name, sit, stay, paw etc so maybe you could look up some training tips. Lots of good videos that also give you preparation advice

Ask your breeder about the vaccination. I foster rescue cats and we often hand the cats or kittens over in the period between the first and second vaccination.

The adoption fee we charge includes both vaccinations so the new owner takes the cat back to our vets for the second dose, which has to be between 3 and 4 weeks after the first dose, but doesn't have to pay as it all just goes on our account at the vets. Your breeder might have a similar arrangement.

It's arguable as to whether collecting the puppy is essential. Obviously the breeder doesn't want to keep the whole litter for months on end if lockdown lasts that long and there may be minor welfare issues as in its easier for the puppy to settle in if it comes to you sooner rather than later but that's not the end of the world. Perhaps wait to see if anything changes at the next lockdown review in 3 weeks time and go from there?

@HealingCalmingSoothing - he looks very handsome, if a bit bashful

DIY a potential moneysaver going forward!

How old will the dog be? I bought a bag puppy carrier when I got my dog - late autumn. Dh used to use it and walk this one with our adult dog. It was too big for the pup and I lined it with chopped off section of a blanket. You may not need a carrier at all. It depends on vaccinations / age. With the hottee weather, you could consider getting a carrier, which looks more like one for a baby, where the feet hang out.

As for peeing and pooing, this happens pretty much instantly after they’ve eaten at first, much like a baby. Feeding just before walks for pups is good to encourage them to do it outside. Older dogs generally eat after walks - exercise making them hungry. It isn’t a good idea to let dogs eat a large meal just before or after a walk. The stomach can literally twist when full - more likely on larger, deep chested dogs btw and Is potentially life threatening. I prefer to leave my dog to graze all day. But some trainers will disagree with this, I think. Some dogs cannot do this and I’ve had a greedy dog before, who I fed twice a day with a snack in between. You’ll learn what kind of eater your dog is.

I Think it’s perhaps been mentioned, walks are training exercises in themselves. You aren’t just going for a leisurely stroll each day. A little pup will stay glued to you for the first few walks. An older puppy will quickly become unmanageable. The first few walks can be interesting. My pup didn’t want to walk for a fair while. Then hated the lead. All fine now btw. Take treats to help with recall. I haven’t clicker trained. But I understand it’s very good. Lots of praise. Never tell a dog off when it runs away then comes back. All they’ll learn is you get cross when they come to you and will become nervous to do so. Dog training is all about the positive.

Dd the separation anxiety there's lots that can be done also, start leaving in one room for a short time, go back before dog gets anxious, build up slowly to going out the house for a few minutes, pop for a walk around the block, sit in the car and listen to as song or 2 on the radio all done very gradually extending the time

Hi there.
Firstly, you are allowed to pick up a puppy - KC guidance here: kennel club guidance, plus the BVA is advising that primary vaccinations can go ahead.
With litters that we breed, we use Jane Lindquist's Puppy Culture, which is an incredible start to socialisation. Due to the COVID crisis, she is providing FREE puppy classes for new owners, specifically aimed at doing the best possible job of socialisation under the current circumstances. www.madcapuniversity.com She has loads of great ideas around using costumes, face masks, perfumes etc to recreate normal socialisation and introduce novel experiences.
The 'Positive Reinforcement Breeders Support' group on FB has lots of useful info and links, and this is the best crate training guide I have found:
austerlitzshepherds.com/2017/05/crate-training-for-puppies-an-incremental-approach-to-crate-training-puppies/?fbclid=IwAR0B1iGsGBkK-DK7LAlCcnEq0b1qBptLvgZm-fPA3XWLCyuEfpYE5WmYnDk

Good luck!

I didn’t answer about your kids. Talk about kind hands. Kids can be boisterous. Your pup needs a safe place. Kids not allowed in the crate with the dog for example and split them up either goes too nuts. My dd was afraid of my puppy when he went through the crazy / bitey stage. So do be aware this could happen as well. As with all things, it passes.

Teach your children not to pull legs, split their front legs and to be gentle. I have heard you can damage the heart muscle doing the latter. Not sure if it’s an urban legend. In any case, puppies are bouncy and resilient. But can also be easily injured.

Get them involved in the training too. As the dog gets older, they will be able to race around together and tire him / her out.

@Booboostwo I have a very indignant "excuse you" when pets don't do as they've been asked. Pulls them up very quickly. I haven't intentionally trained it, but it's very effective.

@scochran I don't have any preference, just something I know they're likely to get right so I can reward. Usually I just go for the behaviour I want to see. It helps them to know the correct response.

Barking, mine have to come inside and hop on their beds. They can watch things outside but I expect them to do it with their eyes.

I've never had a biting problem and it's possibly because I handle mouths. I want them used to my fingers in there incase there's a need for it. You don't want an emergency and not be able to remove eg a foreign object or investigate for an injury. So handling mouths is a game, fingers go in and wiggle around - it's a gentle, non scary game. If they mouth me that's taken as an invitation to play with their mouth.

I do the same with feet. Make a game of hold the paw, play between the pads, handle all over without pup pulling away. You can't dominate and make it scary by forcing the holding, you've got to earn their trust and let go before they pull away. The more you do it, the longer they'll let you do it.

My westie was a bold boy (he's jelly underneath though). He hated rolling over and having his feet handled. So it became a morning game on the bed. Roll him over, rub his tum, play with his paws. 5 years on, the alarm goes off, he jumps on the bed and rolls himself over for his morning tum rub and rough up

Op i was thinking about this post on my walk just now. Mypuppy's 4th outing. It's all ups and downs. I had bad night in that I let her out to pee when she whined and I'm not sure she needed it. I have read people saying they have never let pups out so I'm not sure I'm getting it right. It's not a nice feeling.
But then we had a great walk with loads of training opportunities to resist running after joggers and bikes, a man running with his 2 dogs let them meet her and when it was time to go she came along not too badly. I was surprised he let them but he is a vet and I was glad she met them. So now I don't feel so rubbish about the night. The experiences se is getting are good s varied. We also saw the lambs ad horses.
You can totally make this work, don't be it off. Is there ever a perfect puppy or a perfect time? Joina Facebook support page for your breed, it will make you feel happy!

Please people do not give incorrect advice re separation anxiety.

Separation anxiety is a very serious problem with very few solutions. It is not caused by not leaving the puppy alone in the first few weeks/months of life. If anything it is avoided by not leaving the puppy alone when distressed. If your puppy is fine with being left alone, carry on. If your puppy gets distressed when being left alone try not to do this as it increases the chances of creating separation anxiety problems. If your puppy appears very distressed at being left alone, get professional advice asap.

Re going out to toilet at night - I go to the loo myself during the night, so I don't expect my dogs to hold on. When pup was little, I'd take him out, as he got older he'd wake me up and now the dog door is left open and he takes himself out if needed. My other dog doesn't go out much during the night but the westie has a sensitive tum and needs emergency toilet when he needs it!

Honestly I wouldn’t.
A cross breed pup you haven’t met from a breeder who is likely churning them out for cash and won’t be socialising them properly. Personal recommendations worries me TBH as if friends have pups they’re likely breeding VERY frequently. And I’m guessing you haven’t checked the parents have had the necessary breed health checks pre breeding. Plus you can’t go to puppy training.
That said I doubt you will cancel.
Dog training advice and support on FB is great for advice on bringing a pup home and crate training etc.
Check your vet will do puppy vaccinations at the moment. Many won’t.
Keep pup on whatever breeder is feeding to avoid upset tummy.

New rules say you shouldn't pick the puppy up but the breeder is allowed to deliver.

Poo owner here....Well you’re definitely all going to be well occupied with the pup arrival, I can promise you that! They’re delightful dogs which love being at the heart of family life. Yes, they are needy. Yes, they need a lot of exercise - our poo is bigger and she needs x 2 45 minute brisk walks a day. In actual fact she would just exercise and walk all day - they are energetic dogs. Crating is essential for travel, but at home you don’t have to crate - a small room with a stair gate across it works very well. I recommend a smelly toy or top from the breeder which can be placed into the pups basket first few nights, you can get these heart beat toys which are also brilliant or a loud ticking clock. They can struggle with separation anxiety. My bitch is now 2 years old. I never ever leave her at home alone for more than 4 hours maximum and have a dog sitter on standby. You build up their ability to cope with this separation over a period of months as they mature. But really I’m at home all the time so our dog has people about nearly all the time. Good luck! You won’t be bored!!!

I would rethink the cockapoo idea. The majority of these breeders have not done any form of temperament or health testing. By that I mean the parents will have their hips/eyes/heart etc examined and scored. That is not a vet check, that is the dogs get x-rays to determine what state the hips are in and a score is given based upon the results. Only low scored healthy dogs should be bred from.
Aside from that the majority of cockapoos I interact with (in my job I interact with a lot) are poorly trained and full of energy. Both cocker spaniels and poodles are working breeds. They need an outlet.

I strongly suggest considering a poodle instead. You can keep the dog in a cockapoo clip if you like, that is just a poodle coat kept unkempt. Brushing is essential daily but the poodle coat doesn't matt with the cocker coat like it does in a mix breed.
Of course poodles still matt if not brushed but it's a lot more manageable.

Poodles will be cheaper, the reputable breeders will ensure their dogs are healthy and have good temperaments.

Honestly please do some more research and don't discount poodles too soon. They are much better suited as pets in my opinion 🙂

OP - there are a couple of things to do which could prove problematic unless planned during social distancing / lockdown measures. PLEASE consider these things and research before you take ownership!

1. Do you have full vet access for this pup???? I only ask as I had some sick livestock recently and had to make-do with phone consultation service from our vet. The pup needs a physical check done by your vet asap.
2. You need to handle this pup before you pay and take away. You need to check for hernias (common in pups), any mucus on eyes / nose signs or diahorrea.
3. See and check that this pup is mobile and can feed well from the bowl. That is indeed bonded with its maternal mother (beware rogue breeders)
4. CHECK all the documentation carefully. Have everything discussed and in place with the breeder before pick up. Any doubts, any niggles, any funny feelings on the day - stop!!!!