I love going to Paris. I have been often and will keep going. I've been to most of the places PPs have mentioned. I've never had the 'stinky, scary disappointment' but I do read and speak French reasonably well and have been to other parts of France too.
Google 'foodie Paris' for some ideas. Maybe sign up for a cookery morning/afternoon? Wine tasting? Cheese tasting? Vineyard tour? I've done these in other parts of France and enjoyed them.
Paris has a 'navigo' card for public transport; you can load it onto your phone or get a plastic, rechargable card in big stations.
https://www.iledefrance-mobilites.fr/en/titres-et-tarifs/supports/telephone
There is a discount card for museums and other places:
https://www.parismuseumpass.fr/en
Google for bato-bus to get your Seine river cruise fix without disappointing food.
Rue Cler is a street full of bistros et cafés in case you need sustenance near the Eiffel Tower. I have stayed a few times at the Hôtel Royal Phare and Grand Hôtel de L'Eveque.
Agree that Eiffel Tower is great at night.
L'Arc de Triomphe - great view of the city, fun watching the cars go round and often there's an exhibit at the top. One time, I saw Napoléon's toothbrush!! Then walk DOWN the Champs Elysées (it's actually pretty steep) towards Place de la Concorde. Personally, I would avoid the touristy restaurants along the CE - just go a few blocks on any of the side streets and you'll spot a place full of locals and it will be much better.
Museums I revisit:
These are smaller and more concentrated - just an hour or so:
Musée de Cluny - Roman Paris (Lutetia) + unicorn tapestries
Musée de l'Orangerie - waterlilies
The Louvre is worth a visit. There is lots in there; read up and plan your route. One time, I was in the room where the jewellry was stolen last week and there was some kind of scare and they sealed the big doors at either end for about 20mins.
Last time (with a history buff/francophile/foodie friend for our 50th) I went to:
Les Invalides - Napoléon's tomb; lots of other historic tombs; huge museum full of crazy uniforms (leopard print!) and weapons/armour, plus exhibits about the Résistance and de Galle
Versailles was a bit blah for me; it was a box to tick but so was Les Invalides and there was much more to see: Versailles is a long, full day; many of the rooms are empty/hardly furnished which is disappointing compared similar palaces/muesums; the grounds are immense (book a rental bike with your ticket or you'll never make it to les Trianons)
la Grande Arche de la Cité
Places I haven't (re)visited:
Montmartre/Sacre Coeur
Near Nôtre-Dame are lots of book stalls selling antique books - not my thing but a well-known 'Paris thing'
Père LaChaise cemetary - my mother loved it but ...
Musée Rodin
Musée D'Orsay - I'll go back eventually, there just hasn't been time to fit it in recently
Sainte-Chappelle: beautiful but not much to see and a lot of faff/security
Ste Sulpice
Not planning to go:
Moulin Rouge - I suspect the food will not be very good - just lazy tourist fare. Maxime's is open but again, the menu looks disappointing.
Next time for me: les catacombes! Parc Buttes Chaumont? Paris vineyard tour/tasting, Nôtre-Dame