Does anyone actually like Naples?

[FrodoBiggins]

Going to Naples with my DH end of Sept, then on to Sorrento and Capri start of Oct. Everyone (literally everyone) I've told irl has said Sorrento/Amalfi/Capri are great but Naples not so much. I was really looking forward to it (still am) but I'm a bit confused now - it looks interesting and cool!
For info we're there 5 days, doing Herculaneum and Pompeii so maybe 3 days free. We like history and food. It seemed an obvious choice. I can speak Italian, DH is OK he can get by.
Anyone got any recommendations or is it as "grim" as everyone seems to say?

I went to the Amalfi Coast and loved it. We were warned off Naples so didn’t go, though a ferry from Sorrento would go to Naples bay which would have made it easy (this was 2005). I might return one day to “finish” my experience. At the time I went, the Mafia were in control of the refuse collecting and the city was overrun with rubbish. I wonder if that still goes on (probably).

I believe it is still going on. I think it's the case across much of southern Italy and Sicily (so I've been told by some Italian friends)

What did you book @FrodoBiggins ?

Love it. I don’t like places that are soulless and sanitised, so Naples was ideal for me. It’s got an energy to it. Great food, working class people, lots of hustle. I stayed in the Spanish quarter. Narrow streets, lots of smells and noise. Chaos! It reminded me of parts of Buenos Aires. I remember sitting outside a pizzeria with my Aperol Spritz whilst mopeds were speeding past me.

Dh, dd and Gds really enjoyed it, but it was in November, so def. not peak tourist season, and part of a Pompeii/Vesuvius trip, largely for Gds who was very interested.

We absolutely loved it! It's a bit rough round the edges, there is graffiti and rubbish everywhere and you take your life in your hands in the narrow streets with mopeds everywhere, but it's so vibrant and fun, and the pizza is incredible.

Royal Naples was actually rather nice-rest of it a disgusting mess - but it was different !

We were there for 36 hours in August. Loved it. Full of energy, chaos and very real. No pretending for tourists. Watch your bag for pickpockets but walk the streets and take it all in. We did a great tour of underground Naples and the Veiled Christ is a must see IMO.

Some places are very polarizing. It’s kinda like New Orleans, you either fall head over heels for it, or you absolutely loathe it, but it’s always a vibe.

Considering you’re open to it, and you both speak Italian, I’d bet on the former.

Tiktok and ChatGPT are amazing resources for hidden gems and itineraries

I liked Naples! The museum is great, and if you speak good Italian you'll probably just be content with chilling in coffee shops, people watching.
But it is full of graffiti, bin bags of rubbish, and the driving is abysmal. Scooter drivers will just drive down the pavements, with no regard to pedestrians.

Just got back! Loved Naples. Completely hectic but everyone was really friendly and it was so fun. The archaeology museum was great, the food was amazing. Everyone loved football (as do we) so we had some great chats with the locals. We stayed quite near Museo but in a Palazzo set back from the main road. The scooters took a bit of getting used to. Was grateful for the recommendation to change hotel from the one near train station, that area is not as nice as where we ended up.

The place we stayed just out of Sorrento was totally gorgeous and the coast is amazing but we hated Sorrento. Completely chocca with tourists (yes I appreciate the irony) and people selling plastic lemon patterned tat. Spent as little time as possible there (only went in to buy cigarettes and some sun tan lotion lol) then went back to our little village. It does look like a beautiful place but maybe in winter when it's not full!

Overall a gorgeous holiday and I'm very grateful for the help x

PS thanks for this we did go to Sorbillos and it was delicious! We also preferred Herculaneum. Didn't like the underground tour that much tbh, maybe we were just craving the sunshine though

Ha yes i did have a laugh trying to learn a bit of Neapolitan!

Great outcome, OP. I'd love to go; absolutely loved Athens.

So glad you loved it (and that you cancelled your hotel near the station - I reckon half the people who say they hate Naples don’t venture much further than that area!) Hope your palazzo was lovely.

I’ll add Sorbillos to my list for next time I visit.

I’m off there for 5 days next week and can’t wait!

Can you report back with any tips please @sciaticafanatica

I have one which would have saved me time, you can use a normal contactless bank card on the metro, which is a really good metro. Just make sure you tap out at the end of your journey cos you don't always have to tap card to make the exit gates open.

Oh and the area around the Greek walls (Mura Greche) is really fun for a drink