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Buying a used car

15 replies

Almahart · 16/11/2023 10:22

I need to buy a car, I think I'm going to go for a Honda Jazz, but we did once have a Toyota Corolla which I really loved, and I do wonder if I should get something a little bit bigger. I only drive around cities really, but would be nice to be able to get eg an IKEA furniture pack in it if need be.

Any other suggestions for a reliable car?

And how do I avoid getting eaten alive at a used car dealer?! Is it worth getting one of those AA checks? Or paying for an AA warranty? And is it worth haggling at all, given that I know nothing about cars really. I'll be doing this on my own, so - help!

OP posts:
Almahart · 16/11/2023 18:25

Just been told that Honda Jazz's get their catalytic converters nicked all the time, so back to the drawing board....

OP posts:
OldTinHat · 16/11/2023 18:46

I bought a chevvy aveo two odd years ago, 2009. It's great! Cost £950.

Ringpeace · 16/11/2023 19:00

VW Up or its (cheaper) Skoda or Seat identical siblings.

Brilliant city car. Tardis-like with the rear seats down. Does about eleven billion miles on a tank of petrol.

Only disadvantage is that it's a four seater - but that was only an issue once in the 18 months I owned mine.

Check dealer reviews online. I was advised by my ex-mechanic brother in law to go for a clean car with a full service history, and check timing belt/chain and water pump have been done to manufacturers recommended mileage interval.

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Ringpeace · 16/11/2023 19:02

And do haggle! There's usually something to come off. Even if they chuck in a valet and a tank of petrol it's a win.

Ringpeace · 16/11/2023 19:07

Sorry - forgot to add. I got my Up via a search on the AA Motors website. The dealer I got mine from (it was a VW main dealer) gave a 12 month guarantee & RAC cover, so do shop around for similar.

Badbadbunny · 16/11/2023 19:26

Ringpeace · 16/11/2023 19:02

And do haggle! There's usually something to come off. Even if they chuck in a valet and a tank of petrol it's a win.

Yep. Even though dealers claim they don't have any scope for haggling anymore due to the shortage of cars (covid, computer chips etc), there's always room for negotiation. A full tank of petrol and a set of new car mats is the minimum really, even though they make out you're stealing from them, and that was during the worst of the car shortage!

New cars are coming through again now, so the pressure on used cars is reducing, so better deals are to be had again. Whether it's interest free credit, a thousand or two off the windscreen price, a proper spare tyre, or an extended warranty. If you don't ask, you won't get. And don't be fobbed off with them insisting on the windscreen price - just walk away, they'll almost certainly come running after you or phone you up the next day with some kind of deal.

We had it around six months ago when looking to buy an ex-demo from a main dealership. The salesman insisted they didn't "haggle" anymore and that the windscreen price (and as listed on the internet) was THE price and he couldn't negotiate. We walked away. He phoned the next day to say "he'd had a word with his manager" (they always say that) and that he could knock a couple of thousand off. We said we'd do it if he also put in a tank of fuel, a proper spare wheel, floor mats, and extend the warranty! He did!!

Sprogonthetyne · 16/11/2023 19:34

If you know the registration number, which is usually visible on add photos, you can look up previous mot's. That gives you an idea of work that may have been done or if there's a recurring problem (eg. If it fails on similar issues every year, there might be an underlying issue)

Badbadbunny · 16/11/2023 19:46

Sprogonthetyne · 16/11/2023 19:34

If you know the registration number, which is usually visible on add photos, you can look up previous mot's. That gives you an idea of work that may have been done or if there's a recurring problem (eg. If it fails on similar issues every year, there might be an underlying issue)

It's also a good way to see mileage history, i.e. whether they've been any periods where it's been hammered. What looks to be a "low mileage" car may well have been extremely low for some years, but absolutely hammered in another! I.e. it may have been a hire or company car in first years, with ultra high mileage, but then driven by an old woman doing 1k per year afterwards, but still look "average" on paper if you divide total mileage by age!

Catsmere · 16/11/2023 20:37

My 2004 Corolla is another Tardis car. Back seats folded down I can fit my two-wheel shopping trolley, mother's folding wheelchair and her walking frame in there all at once. Bought it used a couple of years ago.

Almahart · 16/11/2023 20:51

Brilliant tips, thank you. I've asked for local recommendations for dealers but no one's come up with any, but I've found one that is AA accredited (no idea if that actually means anything) and does seem to have genuinely good reviews. Anything else I should look out for?

And with haggling...... do I just ask if that's the best price they can do? I know that sounds a bit pathetic, just not sure how to open that conversation

OP posts:
Ringpeace · 17/11/2023 00:32

If you ask for the best price, they'll probably say 'yes, it is'.

I got a thousand quid off my Up by being a bit hard-nosed, and I'm not a natural haggler. Nothing to lose. If they say no, walk away and find another. Plenty of cars out there, especially in the 'bog standard runabout' models.

Although... the last car I bought was a Skoda Yeti. I didn't haggle on the windscreen price, which I thought pretty fair (after loads of research - always wanted a Yeti, and they hold their value pretty well). But I did haggle on the trade in of my old car. Lots of 'phoning the manager' and to-and-fro. It's theatre. I got an extra 1500 quid on the part exchange in the end. They expect it, so don't be shy. And we don't buy cars to make friends with the dealers!

FictionalCharacter · 17/11/2023 02:00

I agree with @Ringpeace . Tell them what you want to pay. They’ll give you the Turkish market trader “SIGH, my children will starve” routine. Ignore.
Remember they want a sale so they are very often willing to accept less. Point out small faults. If you absolutely can’t get anywhere on price, ask them to throw in specific extras and tell them you think that’s reasonable.
I’m not a natural haggler either, but I’m perfectly happy to haggle with used car salesmen. Their job is to get as much money as possible for something that doesn’t have a fixed price. Yours is to pay as little as possible!

Also, look up the guide prices for the model and condition. You can value a car on the AutoTrader web site if you know the registration number.

Almahart · 17/11/2023 07:23

Thanks, really helpful. I realised I was being wet, which I'm not particularly irl! Great tip about valuing a car on Autotrader, will also check MOT history myself.

OP posts:
margotrose · 17/11/2023 07:29

If you're not set on a particular make I would thoroughly recommend Hyundai. I've had two over the years and they've been fantastic - never a single mechanical fault whatsoever. They drive well, are cheap to insure and don't cost a fortune in fuel.

Lonelycrab · 17/11/2023 07:42

With the Jazz and catalytic converters, I believe it’s the older models you have to be careful, the newer ones (now they’re aware of the problem) apparently they mount the converter much higher up and it’s not accessible without opening the bonnet.

If you want reliability, Honda is hard to beat, I have a ten year old civic on 80k that’s only had pads and tyres changed.

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