If any MNers have a background or knowledge of dressmaking/sizing, would you mind indulging me?

[mireasunta]

I have lost a chunk of weight over the last 2 years or so, I was wearing a 18/20/22 now I am a 12/14. I am struggling to recognise my new size, as a lot of my 18s were too tight on me, so they started to fit better as I got smaller. It’s only now that I am really starting to look at new clothes.

Anyway – my confusion is around sizing. I’ve read a good bit on here and elsewhere about vanity sizing. For example I have a small coat from Primark. I am not a small size, regardless of what weight I’ve lost, I still have a large chest and wide bum.

I wore an old (10 years+) size 18 dress yesterday. It is definitely too big, but I don’t think it looks massively so. It is a tea-dress shape, zip up the back, I can get it on and off with zip closed now. I don’t think I’d fit into a 14 version of it. So have I really only dropped 1 size?

Does anyone know what the measurements are for a size 12/14 now, versus a size 18 from a decade ago? Or vs a 12/14 a decade ago.

I am not talking about 20-25 years ago, which I more often see referenced, because I was a teen then, and I don’t have the same shape in any case.

The reason I am asking is – I don’t feel like I am a 12-14 (visually) but that’s what the clothes shops say. And I guess it doesn’t really matter, there is no denying that 2 years ago I’d have bought the 18-20 and sizes haven’t changed in that time.

I think I am feeling a bit of an imposter. That if I say I am now a 12-14, it’s not really true, as in “old money” I’d still be a bigger size.

Fuck this is very self-indulgent. But any insight would be appreciated.

Different shops are different sizing, even if they say the same. I would get a size bigger in Next compared to M&S for example.
It can also be comfort. I take the same size in certain things as my dd, even though she is noticeably smaller, because she likes them loose where I like them tight.

I'd suggest go down to somewhere like M&S and get a few things in different sizes and try them on in the dressing room and see how they feel/look.

Sorry, I don't think that's what you actually asked.

What I'd say is that I'm noticeably larger, especially round the tummy than when I was a teen, and I still fit into 12-14. I'd say things have jumped about a size, but have no evidence.

Well done on your weight loss anyway. Tell people you're a 12-14 and enjoy it!

You could find a sizing chart for any shops now, for the current measurements. I agree that they vary a lot though!

My feel would be that over the last ten years sizing has shifted by maybe half a size to a size. So where ten years ago I’d have been a 12-14 or a 14, if I’d stayed the same size I’d now be a 12.

Sizes are all over the place. I wouldn't worry. I'm about your size and have clothes from size 10 to 16. My Principles coat is 16 and a little tight but I have M&S size 14 trousers which hang on me.
Modern sizes mean very little.

Thank you - I agree, the sizes vary so much between stores (and often even in stores, for different cuts/styles) it's just leaving me a bit bamboozled.

I know it's not really an issue, I think it's all part of my head trying to catch up with my physical change. What got me thinking is after almost 3 years (thanks to Covid) I need a new work suit for a few upcoming meetings. I have been in leggings and dresses, where everything is loose or stretchy.

I might see if I can find a dress similar to the one I wore yesterday and see what size I'd go for now. It's just a bog standard summer dress from Asda - they probably have something similar for this summer

Just found a size guide from 2011. As an example a size 16 was a 32 waist on that guide.
Just checking the new look size guide it's a 34 waist. Obviously don't know if it's like for like and the old size guide was American (I converted it) but I think you might be right OP.
It stands to reason that if they've changed in the last 50 they're still changing them!

Sizing was deregulated in the 1980s

Vanity sizing was rife in the 1990s, and the genie never went back in to the bottle, though it did calm down after that first splurge (now acknowledged by the industry).

So 10 years ago, sizing was as unrelated to an actual "meaning" as it is today. Try not to get too hung up on what size you are. When I'm at my peak running form these days, I can be anywhere between a 4 and a 12 - for context, 7 years ago I would buy from brands that made me a 16, even though I was really anything between an 18 and a 22. And yes, it was really hard to shake the idea that going down sizes had a meaning.

You're doing brilliantly!

Can you get to a department store and try on loads of clothes from different brands? Start with 14s, and see how different garments from different brands come up on your particular shape?

Thanks for all the advice and insight.

I wonder why I get myself into this mental wrangling, instead of just going for the size that fits and being happy that it is what it says on the label... there is some self-talk unpicking to do there I imagine!

I think I'll have to just spend a day trying on stuff, as suggested.

Then if I can get an idea of the size I am in various stores, with some margin for error, it will be a start.

There are no department stores near me any more, but I can go to a shopping centre and try one store at a time.

Must remember to wear really easy clothes for pulling on and off, and as few layers as possible! 😂

You can’t even rely on sizing between the same type of clothes. I tried on blue jeans in M&S in one size & black in another size to get the right fit. I’ve been told that they’re likely made in different factories.
Fit is everything so ignore the label and ensure you get the right fit for you.

That's my experience too, which can be disheartening when you're not sure of sizes to begin with. I think I've heard that black jeans always come up smaller than blue, regardless of brand.

The whole move by some stores to S/M/L labelling is adding to my confusion - exhibit A being my small coat from Primark - what do the truly small people wear?

I also have the XL in the same coat, which I used to struggle to close. So I am keeping that as a reminder of how far I've come.

Truly small people like my SIL wear children's clothes quite often, I could until I hit menopause, for context we are Chinese so just small people.

Out of interest, would that have always been the case for you and your SIL or has it become necessary in recent years?

I think there is a lot of noise about size inclusivity for bigger people, but I've never noticed comments about smaller people being left out too (probably because I was on the plus size end of the scale)

From a sewing point of view we choose patterns based on key measurements and do ajustments to the pattern before we cut the fabric. "Wearing ease" is cut into areas where you need movement. Different styles fit different body types e.g.s: if you have broad shoulders then tight bodice and fitted sleeves won't work- you'll have to size up and the rest looks sloppy, if you have a large bust you probably won't look great in an off the shelf menswear style buttoned shirt as it will gape. All this to say the shape of the garment is important around sizing.
Casual loose clothing will fit you in a smaller size and tailored clothing you'll probably find you need the larger size.
You would probably have an easier time working out your general shape (no judgement as to what is the best shape) I used to be a tall rectangle with a long torso now I'm a stooped old apple but even then I buy jeans that if they skim my legs I need to take in at the waist, I buy long tops and wide shoulders but then I need to adjust them at back so they dont look like a tent , I like my arms to be covered so when shopping I narrow my choices by looking for 3/4 sleeves, only look at "my" colours, structured shoulders, short legs. I'm in and out of a shop in about 4 minutes i know whether there's anything worth trying in that time.
Once you figure the shape then work out who dresses your shape. I'll never wear Hobbs or Jigsaw again they won't fit me.
TLDR:
Check yourself for
broad shoulders, around upper arms, waist to hip ratio, back length: top of spine to waist, difference between waist and hip, inside leg, bra cup size B gives more choice than D+
For just a little bit of homework you can take control and not ever buy the wrong thing again.
Have it written down and as pp say just check the retailers online size guides against your notes when you want to shop.

I wish I could "like" your post @UnattendedPotato
Thank you so much for taking the time to write all that. I will take my measurements and I think I'll carry a tape with me.

At the weekend I was chatting to Mum and she was telling me about some new size 14 jeans she got in M&S, and before I said anything, she came out with - the sizes must be bigger, I have old size 14s from 10 years ago that won't go near me now -

I'll admit it's disappointing, I want to be an "old" 14.
So now I guess I am aiming for a 10-12

Maybe it's just the way we're built 😂

posting to remind myself about this at a later date 😊

At the weekend I tried jeans in New Look (where I'd have perceived clothes to run a size smaller) and M&S (I'd have thought of as more "generous") - I am now a 12 in both stores, so that was a nice discovery.

Didn't buy the New Look ones, but very happy today in my Marks size 12s.

I am still trying to get my mind to catch up with my physical change - that's proving tricky.