Any cyclists around to help a beginner who's just bought a bike?

[Siw2020]

Hello

I have just bought a new bike having not cycled since being a child/teenager. I will be moving to a city centre hospital for work that is notorious for not having car parking availability.. hence the new bike investment.

Can any of you lovely people get me started with what essentials I need to get and make recommendations?

So far on my list of things to get is:

• helmet
• lock
• lights
• rack/pannier(?)
• pump
• inner tube (not a clue how I know which one)
• cleaning material
• clothes (gloves, padded shorts/leggings, base layer, high vis)

Anything else? I would really appreciate recommendations, feeling utterly lost with options!

I also cycle commute in normal times.

Whichever rucksack or panniers you buy, make sure they are absolutely waterproof. Especially if you have a laptop in there.

If yr bike doesnt come with mudguards you can get a cheap set that you can remove by unhooking the rubber fastening. Ditto lights, or clip-in/out ones. Spend all your money on good locks and consider removing the front wheel if it is quick release.

another recommendation for Proviz. I have the coloured jacket now, which is better during grey/cloudy days and still amazingly reflective at night.

For bells, trigger bell is good as it fits under the handlebars and is easy to reach without taking your hands off
triggerbell.com/

there are some really good German brands for baskets and racks and panniers that are interchangeable, depending what you are doing. Look up Racktime racks and all the luggage that goes with them for rear racks especially, and KlickFix mounts for the front. I like that i don't always have to have the baskets/bags/panniers on, so they don't get caught in the racks with other bikes - I can just choose what I need for a particular journey.

you can get lights that are rechargeable by USB, which can be handy as extras. I have dynamo lights, but keep the USB ones just in case.

If you get bike insurance, they might require you to have a silver or gold standard rated lock. Abus locks are good; I have the folding one as I thought it would be easier to get it around objects, though I'm not sure it is. It is handy though. A D lock by them is also gold rated.

Lots of helmets around. Some are folding - Closca - that make it easier to fit into a backpack or bag to carry with you, if you don't want to leave it attached to your bike.

Gloves are really hard to find. I find my hands get a bit sweaty, and then no matter how good the gloves are, thinsulate etc, the lining sticks and I can't get them back on if I take them off. I've tried silk liners etc to help, but no good. I've just ordered some with some sort of Fusion technology that is supposed to help. So I don't recommend any that I've tried

Decathlon is good for cheap silk liners though, and in children's sizes which is good for those of us with small hands! They are generally cheap and good for a lot of basic bike stuff.

A chain cover is good - if you have hub gears, Hebie Chainglider is an aftermarket one that totally covers the chain, so it keeps it clean and with less maintenance, and then you don't get clothes caught in it either. If you have normal gears, there are probably other versions that do the same thing.

I can't get my tyres off myself as I have sore hands, so always end up taking it to the shop for punctures. I have just bought some of that foam stuff to squirt into the tyres for emergencies, in case I get a puncture while out. I don't know yet whether I recommend it, as I've not tried!

Multi tool for adjusting everything is good.

If you live somewhere that bikes and all their components get stolen, consider replacing any quick release wheels or seats with security skewers. Hexlox do security skewers and also little 'plugs' that fit into all the spaces that the allan keys do, and block anyone else from using them. You get a little magnetic tool (unique to your locks) that removes them so that you can then use a normal allan key. you can buy a pack of 6 or so, and secure the saddle, seatpost, lights, wheels, stem, brakes, whatever you think might get stolen. If you live somewhere that is not such a cycle hotspot, this might be overkill!! Where I am, even the smallest things can get stolen.

If it rains a lot where you live or if you're going to ride in the winter (I live in Manchester so I know all about this!) get some decent waterproofs. Without them, cycling in the rain can be miserable and with them, you can barely notice it!

Jackets - Altura Night Vision or Endura Gridlock 2, both good brands. Madison is poor quality: avoid. Waterproof trousers for when it's really grotty and cap under helmet to keep rain off means you're not going around with wet hair at work. I also keep a motorbike lock at work so I don't need to carry it and can have a really heavy duty one.

I also have deodorant, hairbrush etc dry shoes, trousers, socks, cardi and a non-cycling jacket at work so I don't need to carry stuff (all my cycling colleagues do this) and keep a presentable bag at work too so I'm not carting a mud-spattered damp thing between buildings when I'm at work.

Rucksack cover like this cover so you're more visible from behind and the sides.

I don't bother with padded shorts, base layers and all that crap if I'm riding less than an hour, I just wear baggy shorts and a normal tshirt.

oh and also a buff/neckwarmer, very cheap from Decathlon, but quite handy - it's fleece on the bottom and thin fabric on the top if you want to pull it up (could even be a mask)

I have a Halo sweatband as well, as even on the shortest cycles, my face sweats terribly and gets into my eyes, so this kind of helps keep it out of the way (not entirely though).

@BlackberriesAndCream I’ve tried the squirty stuff once on my non commuting bike and it didn’t work. Iirc it just came out through the hole as fast as I could squirt it into the inner tube. 😆🙈. It was a couple of years old so not sure if they have a shelf life.

For my main road bike I now have tubeless and just admit if I was buying another commuting bike I’d probably get tubeless. Shame they tend to only be on more expensive bikes because I want a cheap bike for going to work.

And yes, I wear my buffs as masks. Haven’t worn an actual mask in ages, I have tiny ears and they fall off my ears!

Waterproof panniers - I have Ortlieb which were really expensive and might be overkill but have lasted nearly 20 years.

When I'm on my other bike with no rack I just use a small 10l backpack as only carry a clean top, phone, butties, puncture repair kit, tyre levers, diddy multitool pump and spare inner tube every day. On occasion I remember my staff card too Clothes and phone go in a bag for life - cheap waterproofing and keeps tools and bananas separate from clean stuff.

I would say be careful how much you spend as cycling gear can be expensive.

What you need really depends on how far you are cycling. Most important is a good lock or two and insurance.

Some tips
-learn how to change an inner tube at home before you have to do it at the side of the road in the dark, in the rain and with cold hands.

• carry 2 spare inners and a pump rather than a patch as it's easier to sort out the punctured tube at home where it's dry
• if you are cycling any distance then good quality padded cycling shorts are a must. Don't buy a gel seat as they cause more problems than they solve
• make a note of your bikes serial number as you have no chance of getting it back if it's stolen and you don't have this

• most important is that to be safe you need to be seen and be predictable. So lights, reflective gear, helmet and some confidence that you have a right to be on the road are vital.

-don't cycle in the gutter but keep to the left when you can. At junctions position your self as if you are in a car hence predictable.

Oh well, good to know about the squirty stuff! I did wonder. It says it won't work if the hole is bigger than 2mm, but not sure how effective it is even on smaller ones. The guy at the cycle shop who was repairing my previous puncture said they are OK for emergencies, would have probably got me home, but that mechanics hate it as it makes such a mess inside the tyre.

Another good thing about Abus locks - and probably others - that is useful is that the key has a little light on it, for in the dark, stops you fumbling around trying to find the bit to stick the key in, which might be in a really awkward place that is hard to see. The one I have is also good that the key is fixed in the lock once you open it, so you can faff around trying to get the lock around the railing or tree or whatever, and not drop your keys at the same time and then have to scrabble around trying to find them before you can lock it up. These things are probably less relevant to some one who has a nice bike rack at work to lock things up to, and not random railings in the city centre!

I tried padded pants but they were really uncomfortable, and i don't like to wear special clothing really, so I've just got used to my saddle and wear normal jeans and top, with the cycling proviz jacket on top. I know a lot of people like the cycling padded leggins though. I tried women's saddles and special cutouts and things, and in the end went back to the saddle the bike came with (which is women's but not specially padded). You can get gel covers though. Some shops like Rutland let you try out saddles and still return them if they aren't good.

I'm looking for a nice skirtguard that is easily removable for the rare times when I'm going somewhere dressed up, but not found any yet that would fit under my mudguards and that you could just take on and off. Lots of dutch shops have them, but not many here! But if you do cycle in a skirt or dress, that would also be worth looking at getting a permanent one.

There are water resistant trousers than you can get if you don't want over-trousers. Also you can get a sort of waterproof cover thing that you wear around your waist like a belt on a day that it's likely to rain, and then if you need to, you unroll covers that just cover the tops of your thighs and velcro around the back of your knees, as that's the bit that is most likely to get wet.

I have Sealskinz gloves which have been amazing for biking in winter. I'm a very Fairweather cyclist though and only cycle in the rain if my husband is desperate for the car. I only have a ten minute cycle so wear jeans/long sleeve top and windproof/waterproof jacket with a rucksack. Agree with being as visible as possible and being predictable. Using two D locks- one for front wheel/main frame and one for rear wheel- is a good idea. I've been locking my bike in front of main city hospital building for years and only thing I've had nicked is my lights so now they come off.

I would recommend lezyne bike lights. They are good and bright and also securely but quick and easily fit to the bike with a silicon strip, so just take them off when you get to work.
I have a proviz jacket which is great for being seen and waterproof, but it hasn't lasted as well as I would expect for such an expensive jacket.

Good to know that Sealskinz have been good, as those are the ones with fusion control that I've just ordered, some special technology that is suppose to stop any inner linings moving around. Hope it works.

Those sorts of gloves and the other thinsulate ones etc are for winter cycling to keep your hands warm, which is vital. But it's also good to have summer ones - the fingerless ones - with gel padded palms, to stop the vibrations giving you wrist and hand pain. You can get them cheaply from places like amazon etc, £10 or less. It's probably also good to look for padding on the winter ones too, though. You might find it hard just to use normal winter gloves for skiing etc as not only do they not have palm padding, but they are also quite thick and unwieldy, which can make it hard to use brakes, bell, gears etc.

Proviz has definitely made me feel safer on the road as a novice cyclist; I can tell that the cars give me much more room when going by than they did before. Don't buy stuff from there at full price though - there are almost always deals and codes and offers, from 10-20%, available somehow. I find them a bit sweaty inside, but definitely worth it for the visibility and confidence they've given me.

If you don't get a chain guard, you might want things like snap bands to you around your trouser legs, and you can also get them in high viz or even the sort of reflective stuff at Proviz (who also do rucksack covers, helmet covers, etc). I've caught fabric in the chain and it can cause accidents and also get grease on your clothes. (Though I mostly wear my normal clothes, so maybe I'm more concerned about staying clean than someone who wears cycling clothes). I'm also a fair weather cyclist, as I'm just learning to do it a couple of times a week for exercise and transport around town, rather than commuting.

There's a lot of focus on buying the right gear but I'd strongly suggest that you do your commute at least a few times when there is less traffic and get used to cycling in traffic if you're not using cycle lanes. There may be quieter and safer routes so I'd check these out.

Make sure you're confident handling the bike and eg using hand signals or looking over your shoulder to change lanes or pull off at the lights. Practise riding further out from the kerb in a more defensive position so you can wobble without hitting the kerb and so cars have to pull out to pass you and not whizz past too close.

Give parked cars loads of room so they can't whack you with a door opening and look out for things like potholes, glass, pedestrians stepping out in front of you, people pulling out from parking or roads on the left and not seeing you.

Yeah there’s a lot of focus on gear on this thread. I’ve cycled in the city for 20 years and don’t have half this stuff.

My recommendations are:
Waterproofs (trousers and jacket)
Hi viz
Lights.
Good lock.
Puncture proof tyres
A nice ladies saddle so your bum isn’t sore.
Poss a pannier but it depends how much you carry. Other stuff you can buy as you go.

And then check out cycling position on the road. So being assertive, not cycling too close to parked cars. Being ‘doored’ by someone opening a door onto you is a main way of being knocked off. Also, not going up the inside of lorries or buses. They can’t see you and you’ll get squashed if they do a left turn.

I also wear normal clothes when cycling. Just waterproofs if it’s raining.

@SwanShaped

Yeah there’s a lot of focus on gear on this thread. I’ve cycled in the city for 20 years and don’t have half this stuff.

My recommendations are:
Waterproofs (trousers and jacket)
Hi viz
Lights.
Good lock.
Puncture proof tyres
A nice ladies saddle so your bum isn’t sore.
Poss a pannier but it depends how much you carry. Other stuff you can buy as you go.

And then check out cycling position on the road. So being assertive, not cycling too close to parked cars. Being ‘doored’ by someone opening a door onto you is a main way of being knocked off. Also, not going up the inside of lorries or buses. They can’t see you and you’ll get squashed if they do a left turn.

I'm pretty much with this. I don't bother with waterproof trousers (wear thin leggings and change when I get there if it's raining).

I do have a fluorescent backpack cover, bright lights and a helmet. My d lock was £6 from Tesco a decade ago and is still going strong.

I think my tyres have a Kevlar lining or something, either way I haven't had a puncture (touch wood) in about 7 or 8 years. I don't carry a pump or patches or inner tubes. I'm mainly not going far from home and if it all went totally tits up I have a variety of friends I could call to help me out.

Definitely agree you need to cycle assertively - don't cycle in the gutter and if it's too narrow to be safely overtaken pull out so people can't try.

And I too basically wear normal clothes. I cycle in dresses with the skirt tied up in a hair band. I cycle in sheer tights and high heels or with a knee length coat. I try really hard to avoid making cycling a thing that requires me to kit up or I increase the activation energy and therefore the likelihood I just end up driving.

Me too. I wear normal clothes. But I swear by my Seasalt waterproof Janelle coat with a hi-vis vest thrown over. You don't have to get all Day-Glo Lycra'd up, OP. A good, warm waterproof coat and a hi-vis vest and hi-vis helmet do me just fine.

OP did ask for 'essentials': we all have our own idea what those are.

I reckon OP will plan to never cycle in rain, anyway!

My commute kit is
Sold secure silver D-lock
Computer bag pannier ( I also have a roll top pannier for shopping) - Decathlon have great ones.
USB lights
Pump and puncture kit
Small packing waterproof jacket and warm gloves.
Helmet obv.
I normally cycle in work clothes but keep a freshen up kit at work and cycle in leggings if the weather is wet.
My bike is also bike register marked. I had the shop put mudguards and rack on it.

I got to be good at patching punctures s a student, it’s very quick once you know what to do.

You need mudguards in the winter - will stop that stripe of muck up your back in the rain and help stop your feet getting wet from the spray off your front wheel. Wherever you bought the bike off will fit them for you - full length ones are the best but almost any kind are better than none at all.

I have lost the ability to mend punctures on side of the road. I imagine I could if life depended on it, but even at home, it's literally painful, frustrating, slow, error prone, filthy, very stressful, freezing (this time of year). I pin my hopes on good tyres instead. So far so good.

Fixing it at home is still stressful, maybe about 25% the hassle of roadside fixes.

Two different locks are useful - partly as thieves are rarely equipped to break both and also gives you versatility. I have one D lock and another one that is curvy that I can change shape but is about 2 - 3 cm thick and braided steel inside. That one is very versatile as can go around anything. If in a (locked and has CCTV) bike shed at work I just use the curvy one to attach my back wheel to the rack. If locked in town I use the curvy one to go through my frame, back wheel and to attach to a post. The D lock then attaches my front wheel to my frame. (Front wheels are very easy to get off.)

One other trick is to buy a helmet where the lock can go through the actual helmet (not the strap - the bit that goes on your head!) - saves you lugging the helmet around with you.

And then check out cycling position on the road. So being assertive, not cycling too close to parked cars. Being ‘doored’ by someone opening a door onto you is a main way of being knocked off. Also, not going up the inside of lorries or buses. They can’t see you and you’ll get squashed if they do a left turn.

Very much this. If there's no cycle lane, don't cycle in the gutter, it just encourages cars to overtake without giving you enough room and if they get really close there is literally nowhere for you to go. Minimum of 1.5 metres away from the pavement. It feels weird but honestly the more visible you make yourself the better.

Again, if there's no cycle lane, the faster you can cycle the better - gives you much more time to manoeuvre if you're able to match the speed of the traffic around you. Particularly important if you ever have to turn right at any point.

Take a bit of time before you do your first work commute to work out the best route. This may not be the most direct one, but one perhaps that makes use of side streets or bits of cycle lane that can be joined up.