Any Newish Cyclists?

[CyclingShark]

I just got a bike. Been out it once, my arms are a bit wobbly!

Wondering if anyone else has recently started cycling?

I am on strava (all one ride at the moment)

The gear range only really matters by the way if you are going up really big hills, I struggled with Sora up some of the Cotswold hills.

Oh dear, I may have just bought a road bike. Apparently I may have caught the cycling bug!!

@ameliameerkat yay

@Teateaandmoretea

The gear range only really matters by the way if you are going up really big hills, I struggled with Sora up some of the Cotswold hills.

But that's a product of the gear ratios, not the groupset surely? You can get 9 speed cassettes that will give you the same range as an 11 speed cassette. There will be bigger gaps its true so the gear change won't be as smooth, but you can get a 11-32 cassette in Sora which is the same as the widest range cassette in 105. When my son was little, he had a road bike with Sora on and we fitted a Deore MTB cassette which was, if I recall rightly, 12-34 . It worked reasonably well. Gear changes were a bit clunky with that range in a 9 speed cassette but it got him up some very big hills when he only had tiny legs. So you can get reasonable climbing ability out of an inexpensive bike if you change the cassette (or swap to a triple chainset if you want really low gears) - you don't have to change the whole groupset. Of course more expensive groupsets tend to be fitted to more expensive bikes that are lighter and have better wheels so the whole package will be better on hills, but the minimum and maximum gears are often identical, or can easily be made so.

You can get bigger than 32 in 105. I’ve got 11-34 but I think you can also get 11-36

you can get reasonable climbing ability out of an inexpensive bike if you change the cassette (or swap to a triple chainset if you want really low gears)

I tried that but it was really temperamental (it needed constantly tuning and then either refused to go on top or bottom ring) and it still didn’t go as low as the bike does I have now

I’ve got a triple on my cyclocross bike as I planned to go bike touring on it. Never happened. Think the Avail is a double.

I’ve ordered new cycling socks to match my bike!

Need a new helmet now I reckon.

The skinny racing tyres look a bit scary. I have 35mm on my cyclocross and reckon these must be 25mm if not thinner!

You balance on tyres the width makes no difference

As well as padded shorts my ex used to also use chamois cream to apparently avoid friction and a sore bum.

www.google.co.uk/amp/s/www.cyclingweekly.com/fitness/training/chamois-cream-explained-139014/amp

Udderly smooth is a brilliant chamois cream for anyone wanting to use it, I only use it to prevent chub rub in summer months but DP uses it when doing any ride over 50km and rates it too.

Went out for the second time on my new road bike today. Have upgraded from cheap Dunlop Gloves to expensive, fancy gel gloves.

Definitely made a difference but hands still a bit sore. Now I’m used to the armchair comfort of a recumbent so expecting a bit of soreness. Changing hand position frequently helped and I did 15k alright. Will my hands get used to an upright bike and get less sore? I don’t think my saddle is too high so don’t feel I’m leaning/putting all my weight on my hands.

Some of it is just a matter of getting used to it but you might find this video helpful.

One of the best things about riding a road bike is that you have a number of choices of hand position so if you find your hands are getting uncomfortable you can often move them. Within reason of course - the various options are there for specific purposes so don't go flying down steep hills with your hands on the tops.(Apologies as you probably already know all this but it looks like there are some brand new cyclists here so I thought it was worth sharing.)

Thanks, those videos were good. The second one said you have the most control when on the drops

I have “sissy” brakes On the top bar and I feel I have the most control here. When I’m on the drops I can’t reach the brakes (small hands).

@JacobReesMogadishu

Thanks, those videos were good. The second one said you have the most control when on the drops

I have “sissy” brakes On the top bar and I feel I have the most control here. When I’m on the drops I can’t reach the brakes (small hands).

Ok, having auxiliary brake levers on the tops does make riding on the tops less dangerous as you can break, but you will still have less control in that position than in the drops. Not a massive issue depending on what kind of riding you are doing of course, but going down hills or cornering hard, (and especially downhill cornering!) you will have optimum control in the drops. You might need to adjust the STI levers to bring the brakes in nearer to your hands though, or even swap bars as the radius if the curvature does vary. There are lots of videos on line that show you how to adjust the levers, but any decent bike shop should do it for you at a low cost if you don't want to be bothered. You may find you are doing a lot of little adjustments at first but its worth it as even small changes can make big differences to your comfort and confidence.

Thank you, I didn’t realise the levers could be adjusted so will investigate that option.

My new bike has arrived, and I'm looking into security. I have a good lock. Considering a replacement security skewer for quick release front wheel, too, maybe other components like saddle - they're not expensive, but it would still be a hassle to have them stolen.

Anyone looked into Laka bike insurance? it's an interesting model, different price per month depending on other people's claims. but overall quote comes out cheaper than quite a few others, and they don't seem to have an excess to pay (not sure if the number of claims is limited, though, or how much the premiums go up if you do have to).