I did ACA with a small (two partner) firm of chartered accountants after an unrelated degree (History). You can do ACA without a degree - it used to take an extra year, not sure if that's still the case? I loved my degree though.
Whilst at the small firm, I did accounts prep, tax returns, VAT returns for small businesses - farmers, doctors practices, chip shops, car mechanics etc! At that time we used to work from books smelling of cigarette smoke and big bags of receipts but I'm guessing things have moved on since then! I enjoyed the insight into small businesses and getting to know the clients.
After qualifying I moved to the Private Client team in a big 4 firm. The clients were different - at that point, mainly landed gentry with family trusts etc, although latterly we took on a lot of wealthy entrepreneurs. People had very complicated affairs, with different activities going on all over the place and we had to consider all the different taxes, residence/domicile rules etc. I did both compliance (accounts and tax returns) and tax planning, mainly inheritance tax. It was really interesting and very challenging.
Most people in the team went on to do tax exams (CTA) but I ducked out of them and had a baby instead! It didn't really matter, you can learn on the job, although I did suffer 'imposter syndrome' a little. It was hard though, very legal orientated and you were constantly coming across tax law you didn't know existed.
A few years ago I moved within the firm into VAT compliance. The benefit of big 4 is that there are so many different specialisms. What I do now is more 'regular', less challenging from an intellectual point of view but very demanding nonetheless. My clients are large multinational clients and I manage their VAT compliance all over Europe.
I'd recommend accountancy as a career, but I would make sure you're fairly numerate and enjoy numbers. It's definitely not all about maths, but I'm surprised by the number of people who go into it who really don't have an affinity with numbers or a curiosity to make things 'balance'. They struggle! You also need to be a good communicator - in writing and in person. There's lots of interaction with people, but for me it's not too much of a people job. I'm an introvert and need some time with my own thoughts!