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Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome

811 replies

AnnieSnap · 24/05/2023 11:40

Dressmaking has becoming a topic in the ‘No Buy, Low Buy’ thread. In order not to derail that and because it deserves its own thread, I invite anyone who would like to make some of their own clothes or those already doing so to post here about fears, joys, problems, successes etc.

Having binged watched several serious of The Great British Sewing Bee when was laid-up with Covid and because that corresponded with the woman who did my little alterations stopping doing it, I was inspired to get a cheap sewing machine to try to do my own. That was just 16-months-ago and, having no previous experience at all, I quickly fell in love with sewing. I am not usually very patient with tasks (I have great patience with people and animals, but not with much else). Surprisingly, I have endless patience with sewing even when things go wrong 🤷‍♀️ At the beginning, I never dreamed I would be able to make clothes, but it turns out I can. So far, I’ve made dresses, skirts, tops, trousers, a gilet, a couple of things for my husband and even a jacket and a coat 😮

I try to buy ‘deadstock’ fabric when possible in the interests of the environment. It is fabric that is overstock from designers or big companies like Boden, M&S, Nobody’s Child and all the rest, or even fabric they have had produced and have changed their minds about using. I was horrified to discover that up to recently, all of this, tons and tons every year, went into landfill. It still does if it isn’t sold.

Any sewists (as we’re called these days) or potential sewists, what’s your story? And don’t forget the new series of The Great British Sewing Bee starts tonight. BBC1 9pm.

@pigtailsandall @theatrical @Zipps @remuslupinsbiggestgroupie @daisywaisy

OP posts:
Thread gallery
119
Kaleidoscope101 · 31/05/2023 08:57

Can I join. Not sewn at all bit really want to learn, mainly as I'm short and often items I buy are too long on me.
Was thinking about getting a sewing machine but no idea where to start

Hiddendoor · 31/05/2023 09:49

@SparkleHard what pattern did you use? I have a few tshirt patterns but always in search of the ultimate perfect pattern!

tribpot · 31/05/2023 10:15

I bought this sewing machine, basically because it's one of the two that Tilly uses in her tutorials, so I thought I'd have a fighting chance of understanding what was going on: https://www.janome.co.uk/model-j3-18

Definitely no complaints about it, although she does explain things super clearly and all sewing machines by definition have similar features 😎I have a 1950s Singer in the garage, it must be one of the original electrical machines. I must get that out to have a look at. My mum still uses the manual Singer her grandmother bought in the 1920s to make my grandad's baby clothes.

Janome UK & Ireland | Model J3-18

This is an excellent starter machine that is also perfect for those that sew occasionally.

https://www.janome.co.uk/model-j3-18

EnterFunnyNameHere · 31/05/2023 10:28

I have a question please 😊

I'm pretty reasonable at sewing, and can follow a pattern with a decent result. BUT I'm very bad at altering patterns to actually fit me (I'm tall) so waste a lot of money making actually quite nice but totally unwearable things.

I've seen online places where you upload measurements and get a pattern already amended to your size - has anyone had any success with something like that?

TIA

MaryBoggintonTrotterSmyke · 31/05/2023 10:58

DollyParkin · 30/05/2023 21:59

I buy deadstock fabric from Amo Threads and Fabrics at Play. They have really lovely quality stuff.

I also like Croft Mills, and all 3 companies have people who know their fabrics. I get pissed off with retailers that don't sell good fabrics - who try to sell 'linen' that's viscose or ramie or polyester, or who price everything by the half metre.

If you spend time making things, don't use crappy fabrics, is my motto. Poly-wool pills, whereas I have some pure wool suits and a couple of coats which are probably more than 20 yers old. And so on. Linen & silk are beautiful durable fabrics & lovely to sew and wear.

Wow thanks for the intro to these sites - although my bank balance won't thank you! Already found loads of gorgeous silk and linen that I might have to add to my stash...

MaryBoggintonTrotterSmyke · 31/05/2023 11:00

For some reason I've only just discovered the Great British Sewing Bee so am catching up from the start, have just begun season 3 and it's really inspiring me to get the machine out again!

NutellaEllaElla · 31/05/2023 12:08

Yes as pasta says we already have a thread and for new and experienced sewists and would be happy to chat about all things dressmaking there as well. x

DollyParkin · 31/05/2023 12:18

They’re addictive, aren’t they? I’ve found both Amo Threads and Fabrics at Play to offer really high quality - better than most discount or dead stock mail order in the UK. And the stock is really unusual.

They know their fabrics! I hate it when I go to a fabric shop and there are no labels of the material composition and the staff have no idea. I’m a fabric snob because if I’m going to invest a whole weekend making a one of a kind dress, the fabric needs to be a nice quality for the style.

Frenchfancy · 31/05/2023 12:26

I have made my own clothes for many years, I don't know if there is anything I haven't made. Jeans, coats, swimming costumes, bras...

Interestingly I'm finding myself less interested in it this year. I've been buying stuff off vinted much cheaper than I could make it. I no longer sew with cheap fabric, it is a waste of my time, and finding decent fabric is hard work.

Some pattern companies to look out for include Sinclair Patterns and Itch to Stitch. Both a much better fit for me than Tilly (who is very much for beginners and isn't very good at pattern draughting).

Lekala.co is great for made to measure cheap patterns, but they have zero ease in their woven patterns and the instructions require you to have significant experience.

AnnieSnap · 31/05/2023 12:44

CharlotteStreetW1 · 30/05/2023 21:22

May I join?

I know the basics and have been on a dressmaking course but I haven't made anything for years. I bought a Brother sewing machine from a colleague a couple of years ago and finally used it a couple of weeks ago to hem a voluminous maxi dress that I was tripping over. I did a fairly good job if I say so myself.

I'd also be interested to know how you access deadstock fabric OP.

🐝

Welcome 👋
All of the fabric sold by Rainbow Fabrics and Amo Threads is Deadstock. Various other sellers, including Fabric Godmother and Minerva have some deadstock. That will be stated in the fabric description.

OP posts:
Merryoldgoat · 31/05/2023 13:00

So excited to find this thread. I’ve been sewing on and off for years but at a basic level - mostly pull on trousers and tunic tops.

I really want to improve this year and improve my wardrobe.

I’ll be going through the full thread for all of your tips and ideas.

DollyParkin · 31/05/2023 13:28

Some pattern companies to look out for include Sinclair Patterns and Itch to Stitch. Both a much better fit for me than Tilly (who is very much for beginners and isn't very good at pattern draughting).

I have looked at a friend's Tilly & the Buttons dress & pattern. Not for me. Very basic techniques and not tailored or fitted, so you don't learn how to sew properly ... Vogue Patterns are excellently drafted - the pieces fit together!

I'll have to have a look at the ones you mention @Frenchfancy - my impression of a lot of the independent patterns featured on, say, The Foldline, or via the Seing Bee are that they are clumsy, and don't have the details & features that I look for in tailored clothes and even just casual trousers etc. Drawstring waists ceased to be flattering on me once I was over 30, and I'm still quite slim 30 years later!

DollyParkin · 31/05/2023 13:40

The other thing I've found wonderful is one of my local charity shops - I have some amazing vintage patterns (an original Pierre Balmain suit from the 60s!) and lengths of fabric. And old buttons and buckles, recycled. Because I need to add to my stash. Always.

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 31/05/2023 13:52

If really basic patterns help people to start sewing though, then surely that’s a good thing?

DollyParkin · 31/05/2023 13:55

Yes, but along the way it doesn't hurt to learn necessary techniques. I was REALLY surprised watching an epi. of the Sewing Bee one year at the number of supposed home sewers who had never done a placket sleeve cuff or collar opening. That's a petty basic element of a shirt or pull-over top.

Frenchfancy · 31/05/2023 14:10

I agree @DollyParkin there are definitely skills missing. Many of the Indies make simple designs because they don't want to complicate things, but there is nothing inherently complicated about an invisible zip or a lined dress.

Fit is the other main problem. Knowing how to and when to drop the bust point for example. If I don't then there's no point in sewing something as it won't fit.

theatrical · 31/05/2023 14:12

I'm here at last! Thanks. Going to read and catch up now.

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 31/05/2023 14:22

Maybe this isn't the thread for me, then. I don't even know what a placket sleeve cuff is.

Aethelthryth · 31/05/2023 14:26

Convent school in the 1970s- three years of compulsory needlework, gave me the confidence to start again in my fifties. It's a complete joy, even though there is the occasional thing which is a disaster. I'm a 30H bust, so purchased shirts, dresses etc. never fit. With the help of the internet I learned how to do a full bust adjustment and now have a range of lovely things in gorgeous materials that actually fit.

theatrical · 31/05/2023 14:33

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 31/05/2023 14:22

Maybe this isn't the thread for me, then. I don't even know what a placket sleeve cuff is.

Same! I've no idea.

I'd be wanting simple, beginner patterns and, more importantly, being able to alter vintage and secondhand finds which I currently do by hand. Nothing fancy just altering waists, lengths and that sort of thing.

DollyParkin · 31/05/2023 14:36

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 31/05/2023 14:22

Maybe this isn't the thread for me, then. I don't even know what a placket sleeve cuff is.

But you can learn - it's fiddly but not complicated. Sewing requires patience ...

I pore over books about sewing I've found in 2nd hand or charity book shops. Not near my sewing room at the moment but I think the book I have is smething like this?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mccalls-Sewing-Book-McCalls/dp/B0016P027E

They come from a time when it was much more normal for women (not men sadly) to sew for their families - in the 50s & 60s, when bought clothes were expensive.

Or nowadays, YouTube and Pinterest.

The placket is the neat way to trim and cover the slit in a long shirt sleeve just before the button up cuff. It lies flat, can take a lot of wear & use, and can also be inserted in a contrast fabric.

https://inseamstudios.com/sew-sleeve-placket/

How to sew a sleeve placket? - Inseam Studios

Detailed instructions on how to sew a sleeve placket. Accompanied with beautiful step by step images.

https://inseamstudios.com/sew-sleeve-placket

DollyParkin · 31/05/2023 14:38

I'm not a patient person, but I am when I sew. Sewing is good for me Grin Also, I'm a writer and work with words & ideas all day, so it's really great to do something so practical. I like the idea of turning 2 dimensional flat fabric into something 3-dimensional.

Although my bills for house maintenance would be lower if I could apply that same principle to carpentry!

Floisme · 31/05/2023 15:17

I made a complete bodge up when I tried a sleeve placket. It's still on my pile of things waiting to be re-done. Yes of course you can learn and it's good to learn, however if that had been the first thing I'd tried to make, I'd have probably binned the lot and never gone back. (And I returned to sewing after a long break so I knew the basics.) I think it's important to pace yourself otherwise you just lose heart. Well I do.

I've never tried Tilly and The Buttons - it doesn't look like my style although I might be wrong. But for what it's worth, the Makers Atelier shirt pattern I've used (link somewhere upthread) doesn't have a sleeve placket.

Also, while YouTube is a great resource, I've found some of the sewing videos worse than unhelpful - people mumble, go too fast, they don't show you properly what they're doing etc. So shop around.

CocoPlum · 31/05/2023 16:13

I like Tilly patterns for learning to sew but I've found that if I go with her measurements I end up with something that's fallling off, it's so big. I cannot for the life of me understand why.

The Juno PJs from her book Make It Simple however are brilliant!

SkaneTos · 31/05/2023 16:22

AnnieSnap · 24/05/2023 17:18

Try this. It was the first dress I made. I made two last summer, a maxi and a knee length and I wore them nearly all the time 🙂 The instructions with the patterns are very detailed and there is a video on the website for this pattern showing how to do bias binding (so much easier than I initially feared. This is a pic of my first one. It comes in a wide range of sizes.
https://shop.tillyandthebuttons.com/products/skye

I can't sew, but I wanted to compliment your dress, AnnieSnap, it is beautiful!

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