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Dressmaking - experienced and beginners welcome

811 replies

AnnieSnap · 24/05/2023 11:40

Dressmaking has becoming a topic in the ‘No Buy, Low Buy’ thread. In order not to derail that and because it deserves its own thread, I invite anyone who would like to make some of their own clothes or those already doing so to post here about fears, joys, problems, successes etc.

Having binged watched several serious of The Great British Sewing Bee when was laid-up with Covid and because that corresponded with the woman who did my little alterations stopping doing it, I was inspired to get a cheap sewing machine to try to do my own. That was just 16-months-ago and, having no previous experience at all, I quickly fell in love with sewing. I am not usually very patient with tasks (I have great patience with people and animals, but not with much else). Surprisingly, I have endless patience with sewing even when things go wrong 🤷‍♀️ At the beginning, I never dreamed I would be able to make clothes, but it turns out I can. So far, I’ve made dresses, skirts, tops, trousers, a gilet, a couple of things for my husband and even a jacket and a coat 😮

I try to buy ‘deadstock’ fabric when possible in the interests of the environment. It is fabric that is overstock from designers or big companies like Boden, M&S, Nobody’s Child and all the rest, or even fabric they have had produced and have changed their minds about using. I was horrified to discover that up to recently, all of this, tons and tons every year, went into landfill. It still does if it isn’t sold.

Any sewists (as we’re called these days) or potential sewists, what’s your story? And don’t forget the new series of The Great British Sewing Bee starts tonight. BBC1 9pm.

@pigtailsandall @theatrical @Zipps @remuslupinsbiggestgroupie @daisywaisy

OP posts:
Thread gallery
119
AnnaMagnani · 30/06/2023 14:55

Well fabric is bought now...

It's both the shape and the multicolours I like so am going for it doubled over.

Suspect work will not start for a fortnight so we will have to wait and see.

PickAChew · 30/06/2023 16:40

I would definitely make a toile for the top. It has the potential to be a disaster if the fit is wrong eg positively indecent or not able to drape nicely and wouldn't be easy to correct.

Bunionbandit · 30/06/2023 17:56

Thanks for the info, much appreciated x

lucysmam · 30/06/2023 18:05

Hello! I haven't got to the end of the thread yet but have been enjoying reading & may even get my own machine out off the back of it!Anyway, sorry if this has been shared before - it was recommended on fb costuming group I'm in. Iirc you put in your own measurents & it generates a sloper for you based on them - I haven't tried it as my machine & costume project have been packed up for a good while but thought someone here may like to have a play with it and see what it doeshttps://easysloper.com/

Easy Sloper

https://easysloper.com

ShortKipper · 01/07/2023 16:20

I'd like to start simply by making v neck vest / tank tops. They are for camping, so I'd like a fabric that doesn't need ironing - what should I use?

AnnaMagnani · 01/07/2023 16:28

Are you thinking of a knit fabric? That's a completely different kettle of fish to woven fabric.

Or you could use linen and just not care that they are crumpled.

ShortKipper · 01/07/2023 16:56

I think the ones I get from M&S are polyester but not very stretchy? But they don't do a v neck. I really don't want these to crease - I can do nicer linen ones for home, assuming I can actually sew something at all!

AnnaMagnani · 01/07/2023 17:35

If they stretch at all then they are knit rather than woven construction.

I've never sewn a knit fabric but I'm sure someone else can advise. I know it is possible to do on a standard machine.

ReviewingTheSituation · 01/07/2023 18:26

AnnaMagnani · 01/07/2023 17:35

If they stretch at all then they are knit rather than woven construction.

I've never sewn a knit fabric but I'm sure someone else can advise. I know it is possible to do on a standard machine.

Not necessarily. There are quite a lot of woven fabrics which have elastane in them, which can give up to 20% stretch.

@ShortKipper - what does the label on your tops say? Does it mention elastane?

Or a bias cut woven top would feel like it had a bit of stretch/give. Not much, but enough to get it on and off, if it was a loose-ish style.

It is perfectly possible to sew knit fabric on a normal machine, and it's very easy to to. But you do need to make sure that you are using the right material for the pattern (ie - don't try and make a pattern designed for a stable woven fabric with a knit fabric, and vice versa).
If you post a photo of the top you want to replicate, we might be able to suggest a suitable pattern.

honeylou42 · 01/07/2023 21:11

Please can I ask how you get on with finishing the seams, as I don't have an over locker machine

PickAChew · 01/07/2023 21:18

Are you asking for a particular project, @honeylou42 ?

pastabest · 01/07/2023 21:25

honeylou42 · 01/07/2023 21:11

Please can I ask how you get on with finishing the seams, as I don't have an over locker machine

That totally depends on the fabric and the project!

An overlocker is a nice to have rather than a necessity.

For woven fabrics French seams can be a nice finish.

Knit fabrics you can use the overlock stitch on your sewing machine.

the owner of my local sewing shop has a very strong opinion that knit seams don't need to be finished as they don't fray.... but I disagree (but not to her face as she wouldn't sell me the overlocker cones if I admitted it to her).

ShortKipper · 01/07/2023 21:50

@ReviewingTheSituation Just checked - 65% polyester, 35% viscose. There is a decent stretch, but not as much as a normal T shirt jersey stretch, I think. They fit loosely, rather than tight.

AnnaMagnani · 01/07/2023 21:52

@ShortKipper is the fabric made up of knit stitches like a T shirt or woven like a man's shirt?

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 01/07/2023 22:22

I did a French seam on a skirt today but it’s ended up too big. Also, why didn’t anyone tell me what a fucker satin is to sew.

ReviewingTheSituation · 01/07/2023 22:35

@ShortKipper - is it like this?

ShortKipper · 02/07/2023 04:59

@ReviewingTheSituation - yes, that's them. I find them super useful for a camping holiday as they roll up in a tiny space, don't crease, and dry quickly without needing ironing.

CocoPlum · 02/07/2023 10:01

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 01/07/2023 22:22

I did a French seam on a skirt today but it’s ended up too big. Also, why didn’t anyone tell me what a fucker satin is to sew.

The skirt or.the actual seam? What pattern did you use?

I've sewn plenty of jersey on a basic Brother with no overlock stitch, the seams don't fray.

RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie · 02/07/2023 11:16

The skirt was too big but the French seam was nice! Chopped it up and started again and have managed quite a beat side split. No pattern yet - just dicking around.

ReviewingTheSituation · 02/07/2023 11:56

ShortKipper · 02/07/2023 04:59

@ReviewingTheSituation - yes, that's them. I find them super useful for a camping holiday as they roll up in a tiny space, don't crease, and dry quickly without needing ironing.

Honestly... I'd just buy more then. You won't be able to make them for £7.50. A pattern alone would cost that much, and you'll need .75m fabric at least.

Maybe if you have one that's past its best you could take it to a fabric shop and find some fabric that's similar (it must be a knit, as you wouldn't be able to get a woven on and off with no fastenings), and then unpick it to use it as a pattern.

Hiddendoor · 02/07/2023 12:27

I've copied a Next t-shirt. They are £7.50 each in the shop so I consider that includes the pattern* cost.

Fabric from Fabric Land was a fairly cheap £/m (i think it was £5) and I got two colours in 1m each (will make pants with offcuts) so around £6 per top including postage, less if I include the pants i will make.

*pattern was essentially just drawing round the tshirt - dead simple shape as no separate arms. I just folded in half and drew around the front then did the same for the back. Added 1cm for seam allowance. I've made 1 and have 2 cut out.

The one I made is a better fit than the Next one - I've shaped it a little more at the waist, lengthened it so I can tuck in if I want to and I've made the sleeves a tiny bit longer.

Having a pattern for a top I like makes sense as shops always end up ending the clothing lines I like or never have my size in stock. Now I can replicate as much as I want. And I can adapt to long sleeve or change the neck or length. It may not be cheaper than just buying from the shop but I have something that is what I want rather than not quite what I want.

ShortKipper · 02/07/2023 12:36

@ReviewingTheSituation - if they did them in V neck, I would. I thought I could both sort that, and maybe use a similar but better fabric - this one pills quite quickly. I do have one I could use as a pattern, maybe that's the way to go - if I can find a fabric. I also thought it was a nice simple make to get me started. Thanks for your help.

AnnieSnap · 02/07/2023 17:17

I haven’t thought of using a basic garment as a template. It’s a great idea. I have spent a fortune on patterns. Patterns and fabric are my guilty pleasure. Husband has just given me £100 for fabric from Guthrie Ghani (my favourite shop).

OP posts:
clowniform · 02/07/2023 19:57

@AnnieSnap same here. Well, the guilty pleasure bit, not the £100 bit -- lucky you and please share what you chose and plan to make!

I try to mitigate things by being patient and buying as many patterns on ebay or through destashes as possible. But I've been a fabric snob for much longer than I've been sewing, and sourcing suitable stuff is usually the hardest part of any project at this point. Lauren has a such a good eye, I don't think I got a single dud from G&G through a whole pandemic's worth of online shopping.