➿ Fantastic Haircare: Making Sense and Science of the Curly Girl Method (thread 2)

[botemp]

Offshoot thread from the Fantastic Skincare threads to document the trials and tribulations in order to make sense and science of the curly girl method. We don't necessarily follow it to the letter and are even critical of it in places. Nor are we especially knowledgeable at this point but we're learning as we go. Feel free to join in as we attempt to approach this with an interest in ingredients and try to not buy everything that promises us magical things…

Useful blogs:

Curly Cailín on the golden triangle of healthy hair
Science-y Hair Blog
The Mestiza Muse
The Beauty Brains (podcast/blog)

Understanding ingredients:

Commonly found ingredients in haircare

Useful information about cosmetic chemistry

Porosity:

(video)

Removing build up:

Shampoos which remove product build up

Cationic compounds (of interest to those with buildup prone and/or fine hair):

Cationic compounds found in cosmetics

Polyquats (of interest to those with buildup prone and/or fine hair):

Polyquat buildup

To polyquats or not

Silicones, polyquats and soap

Another cosmetic ingredient to be afraid of?

Protein/Moisture balance:

(video)

Extract and proteins in CGM, a biochemist explains

(video)

Hygral Fatigue

SPF protection of your hair:

UV protectant ingredients

UV damage of hair (pubmed)

Summers sun and your hair

Rice water rinses:

Rice Water Rinse

Elasticity:

Is it too late to improve your elasticity

Managing elasticity and porosity in hair

Hard and soft water:

(video)

Hard water and your hair

Olaplex:

How does Olaplex hair treatment work

Frizz:

Hair frizz science

What's your frizz type

How to tame your hair based on frizz type

Flash Drying:

Flash Drying

Next level nerdery:

Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair (cosmetic chemists' textbook)

That second picture above is probably most like my hair colour. It's taken by my big bifold kitchen doors so plenty of natural light

Yes, if there's a skylight it probably messes with overexposure which makes everything light lighter and everything dark darker. It's pretty extreme though.

I definitely wouldn't recommend the hair nets, mostly because the same people recommending these say they do it because they don't want to get cancer from all the products entering their brains

I do like the Gallinee mask to clear out scalp buildup. I still need to get an acid exfoliator for my scalp, it's not very high priority though 🤷

Yeah, I'm really happy with my hair as is. I really should experiment with my other products alongside this leave in otherwise they'll just sit and gather dust but it's so easy and low maintenance that I'm poorly motivated to do it.

It's interesting you pick up on the movement as that's what I'm re-appreciating. I can twist it up in a temporary bun when washing my face and it just falls back into place as it was (a bit nicer, even) where with the whole multistep CGM styling method I was a bit scared to touch my hair too much and had to be quite careful with it otherwise it would somehow mess up in just one spot. This suits my approach much better although I probably would never have tried these Rahua products (both the shampoo and conditioner and the leave in were things I tossed into my shopping basket when buying a CGM product and needing to up the amount for free shipping or similar) so it wasn't all a waste just a rather roundabout way to them. Sigh.

Skylight isn't the word I'm looking for. It's a a pitched roof so the window is on the diagonal. GAH! One of those you get those pull down blinds for. I take your point though.

OMG re the crazy hair netters.

I used the Gallinee earlier actually because I knew I was going to use minimal product. I didn't bother with a curl enhancer in the end. Just leave in. Amazing how much quicker it dries. Cuts it in half I reckon. Usually 6 hours - this will take 2 to 3 tops.

Maybe you'll feel more motivated once this nightmare is over Bo, and you're off out again and having a social life etc. For now I'd just do what you feel like doing and it sounds like it's working from an enjoyment, comfort, ease and aesthetic perspective.

Hair movement is really important to me. That was always one of the things I didn't like about blow drying my hair straight. In fact it's why I took such big chunks of hair when sectioning to dry (that and laziness!). It's what I didn't like about hairdressers blowdrying it. They would take half an hour and take much smaller sections and get it so straight that it felt stuck to my head and I felt almost naked. I love a bit of movement.

I struggle with touching it/putting it up etc for exercise too but I've realised exercise/training is more important than my hair, and actually weight training is fine - it goes back down again pretty much the same even though it's only 8 to 10 degrees in the garage gym at the moment. I run once or twice a week and schedule those days as wash days.

Yeah, I don't believe any of it's been a waste. It has helped me get through this tough time. It's been one of the joys and all the experimentation has been a good distraction. For me it's a bit like skincare. I got/get deep into trying this and that but I generally always come back to a very basic routine of staples and most important to me is how my skin FEELS: same with my hair.

I suspect the opposite actually, as soon as life has a pace again I doubt I'll want to spend time wasted on my hair. It was a nice preoccupation indeed but I think I'm all spent out with it now (although that's a general feeling). It mostly has to do with drying time, I think, it's just really not pleasant having wet (not even damp) hair for hours on end or sit with a diffuser for half an hour.

I might change my mind come summer, I don't mind the wet/damp hair then as it tends to dry quicker then too and perhaps air drying quickly won't give the same results I get now. CGM has taught me that, seasons make a huge difference when it comes to how hair behaves.

So, I've trimmed my hair this morning with a bit of help from Manes by Mell I like the front layers better like this, but need to trim a few ends as it's not quite symmetrical. I think I'll put a few more layers in the back too. This is why my hair never gets longer than this, it starts to annoy me and looks better with a few more layers/volume than just long.

DameCelia, my curl pattern did change when I stopped dyeing it - I think that's quite common. However, I was also in perimenopause, so changing hormones could just as easily be a factor. My curl pattern is very sensitive to hormones, changing during adolescence, pregnancies and now perimenopause.

I need to replace my Gallinee cream cleanser and am toying with the Curlsmith scalp range, the shampoo is an exfoliator. Heavier products in winter, drying heating and hats in cold air are not friends to my scalp. The Gallinee cream cleanser is not too harsh, so it has stopped the horrible dryness I usually get, but I don't think it cleans enough. A tough balance.

Good job on the trim Quirky. I was looking at the Curlsmith range a few weeks ago. Let me know if you try anything!

That looks really good quirky! I can see the difference. I've not watched the video but I keep seeing people on IG who have tried her cutting method. Was it tricky or fairly simple? I think I will probably need a cut soon.

My cut has been rescheduled. For April
It'll be tied up a lot for the next few months! Will concentrate on using stuff up, testing up products and conditioning

SophieLion, no it wasn't that hard at all. I have however trimmed my hair myself quite a few times over the years. I liked the fringe/shorter layers round your face bit, which was showing you how to calculate the section and use your parting, it was less blunt than how I normally do it.

Sounds good quirky. I will try and watch the video and see if I think I could manage it.

Did you get the treluxe serum in the end Bo? What do you think of it?

No, I never bought it, I haven't even used the gel in weeks now. I'm still waiting on my black Friday shampooing order from Feelunique but have been really enjoying the Rahua LIC/UV protector that I bought elsewhere to get to free shipping (travel size but will definitely get the full size) and don't think I'll ever want anything else famous last words.

Did you get it, do you like it? Or was it just Queen that bought it.

Yes I got the serum. I am sticking to a consistent routine now of the treluxe serum
and the treluxe gel. Don't use a LIC. Find it easier to stick to the same products as can tell how My hair is responding and sort out styling techniques. Realising soaking wet hair is not good for me as it causes my hair to clump far too much and I don't like the result.
But yes, I do like the serum!

Also using an innersense conditioner which has some protein in and BC clarifying shampoo most washes.

That's a long time for a Black Friday order to arrive.... (speaking of which: my bear still isn't here....). Hopefully next week.

@quirkychick your hair looks great for the cut, thinking about it the change in my curl pattern definitely coincided with my major hair loss. I went for a couple of years with the go telling me my iron level was 'acceptable' before a private menopause consultant pointing out that it was too low for hair growth. Individual strands are thinner as well and the curls are just not the same.
I received my curlsmith products this week and I'm loving them, the moisture memory reactivator is bloody brilliant, it means I'm just as curly on non wash days.
The souffle is V strange to use, in the end I had to dilute some in water to actually spread it, or maybe you're supposed to use much more than I thought.
I'm still working out how to fit purple shampoo into the whole routine but I'm happier with my hair than I have been for years, I feel like me again.

DameCelia, I clarify then use purple (currently black/grey) shampoo. My hairdresser said the toner in it works better when the hair is very clean, or you can shampoo twice with it. You might need to use a very moisturising conditioner/mask after as most purple and clarifying shampoos are a little drying.

I'm glad the Curlsmith products are working well for you Celia. I have their hydro mask and really like it.

I can't remember which brand it was, maybe Boucleme, but one of the British curly brands anyhow, brought out a little bottle of purple toning drops recently that allowed you to add it to any shampoo/cowash (not cowshed, autocorrect 🤣) to turn into a purple one.

Yes, they lost my first package, Sophie and because of Covid/closing of borders I had to wait much longer before they'd declare it missing and then it took them another week and me chasing again for them to resend me another set. They only did that last week. Sigh. It'll be two months from ordering, I fear.

Despite all my travel sizes, samples, and remnants of old shampoo, it's getting a bit close to the wire and I may very well be caught out soon 😬

If anyone wants something protein potent, I got this mask as a sample and used it last night. It's cgm approved (so is the clarifying scrub, haven't checked the other products) but it's not necessarily a CGM brand. It's a little too protein potent for me so I've got the protein frizz going but my waves are proper corkscrews as a result, I did leave it on for a long time (30mins, maybe longer?).

That looks interesting. I've been browsing some products and wondering if there was any Korean hair care stuff that was CGM

Did Olaplex 3 yesterday after BC Clarifying Shampoo and Curlsmith deep conditioner. Good results today. Although currently out for a pre work stroll and also have gym today so that won't last

Sophie I've thought about using the BC shampoo more as I really like it but I thought it might be too stripping?

Also, has anyone used the other at home Olaplex? 0?

Well I take that back. A walk and a lifting session with my hair still in the pineapple I put it in last night and it's survived! Probably the best wash day I've had in a long while. Curls and ringlets all over the place:

BC Clarifying Shampoo (wondering if I use this every other wash)
Olaplex 3 for 30 minutes
Curlsmith Deep Conditioner with shower cap for 30 minutes
Gionvanni Direct LIC
Plop
Treluxe Gel
Diffuse for 10-15 minutes

Pupsie, I've been using the BC clarifying shampoo every wash recently and not had an issue. In fact my hair still got over-moisturised one wash when I squished to condish for too long. I know it's a cliche (all the curlies on IG) say it but you need to see how your hair responds to it.

CC also said the key word is "gentle" not "clarifying" in the title of the shampoo.

Not used Olaplex 0 and. It used my no 3 either for a while. Not sure what it is doing other than making my hair very shiny. Will probably not repurchase when it runs out.

Queen, I don't think it's Korean, it pretends to be Japanese but I think it's American 🤷 anyhow it had a good selection of protein sizes in it if you're looking for that elasticity boost.

In an effort to use some of my neglected styling products I used BC clump and define cream over the Rahua LIC last night, it's not great 😒

Is BC clarifying shampoo the enzymatic one? I was curious about that, although I'm still waiting for my shampoo and conditioner to arrive which was supposed to be latest today, but nothing 😑

I think a LIC plus clump cream is quite moisturising and not surprised you didn't get good results Bo. When I was using clump cream, I would use it as a LIC/styling prep and then either use gel after or sometimes the innersense foam plus gel.

Yes there is enzyme something on the packaging for the BC clarifying shampoo and pumpkin seeds too I think?

I feel you re products not arriving - just wrote about my bear on the skincare thread.

A quick update on using the Curlsmith wash & scrub detox Pro-biotic (scalp shampoo). I used it and followed with the Gallinee mask, Cantu LIC and Giovanni gel. Apparently, it can feel stripping, but really doesn't feel harsh or exfoliating - the scrub bit is not noticeable at all. My hair feels nicely clean.

bo, I know you were asking me about the Gallinee serum, I don't think it does much if you use it between the cream cleanser and mask. I have, more recently, left it on over night before washing in the morning and it really calms my scalp down, so I think it depends how you use it.

SophieLion, I've started to use the olaplex less frequently but leave it on for longer. Partly because I was ending up with a series of products I needed to leave in for various minutes and also, if I do it every 3-4 weeks, then I'm more likely to do it for longer and do get more benefit. I don't think I need it every week atm.

My shampoo and conditioner finally arrive. Never ever ordering with Feelunique again, anyhow. I'm a bit confused though, going by the tracking number I think this may actually be the package that was originally lost

Anyhow washday tomorrow, very anxious to see what a full Rahua lineup will do. I need to do a trim too, hope I remember this time before I get in the shower and it's wet

Thanks for the Gallinee feedback, quirky, I think I'll get the Biologique Recherche version, I just need to find out if they can deliver it to me. Hair looks impressive again, very full looking this time

(Also, the shampoo had leaked a little bit but I just don't have the energy to deal with their customer care again )