And Day Two :
"Day two's visit to an even more remote rural community added yet another layer of perspective.
"Meeting with community project volunteers we heard how difficult it is to access an ambulance in an emergency. Mobile phone coverage was unreliable and families would sometimes cycle to the nearest hospital with a letter requesting an ambulance ? the cycle ride was uphill on a road that made yesterday's dirt track look like the M1.
"The alternative, when it didn't have a puncture, was the bicycle ambulance ? a stretcher on two wheels pulled behind a very basic bike, with no seat belt.
"Although it took us about 20 minutes by Jeep, the journey to hospital was a three hour bike ride. The last person to use the contraption had died on their way to the hospital.
"After all the good news stories of yesterday, this was a horrific and sobering thought.
Chatting to the students and staff at our next stop ? a hospital with a nursing/midwife training college attached - was both inspiring and depressing.
"One trainee had witnessed two maternal deaths, one of them in the hospital closest to the last village we?d visited, both caused by getting to the hospital too late.
"Another student had been a beneficiary of the education for girls project, which offered free secondary school to girls, but which has now been abandoned.
"All had benefitted from a scheme to offer free places at nurse/midwifery school, in exchange for a minimum of 5 years service in state health care. Enthusiastic and committed to helping rural communities, these soon-to-be midwives are, from my brief experience here, exactly what Malawi needs.
"Sadly this scheme ended last year, and this year's intake will have to pay their own way ? around 130 UK pounds, a fortune in Malawian terms.
"None of the original candidates for the course had managed to raise the funds. Those that had finally taken their places were, in the words of both staff and students, never going to practise in rural areas: 'Any Malawian could tell you that just by looking at them.'
"We drove back to the hotel through driving rain, having promised to add their cause to the lengthening list of questions we have prepared for our meetings with DFID and vice president Joyce Banda later in the week.
"We, and the women of Malawi, can only hope that they have some answers."