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Original poster

Would you buy this property?

54 replies

hugsandpugs · 23/08/2025 19:57

Hi,

So we are in the process of buying a house. We had a survey done which came back with high damp meter readings in several areas to the ground floor of the property. It was advised to get a specialist damp/timber surveyor in.

We have done this, just got the report back and the remedial works to sort the issue out is going to cost around 10 grand!!

Would you try and renegotiate with the seller or pull out?

OP posts:
Silvertulips · 24/08/2025 10:28

I’d approach another company who specialize in damp coarse work and see what their estimates for the work. You need at least 3 quotes.

Original poster
hugsandpugs · 02/09/2025 13:24

Update - the seller has refused renegotiation completely.

Wont knock anything off the asking price at all so looks like we are walking away!

OP posts:
PropertyGuy · 02/09/2025 15:54

hugsandpugs · 24/08/2025 09:19

If the client wishes to address the current level of moisture and salt contamination at the property,
the following internal works will be required:
• The walls indicated on the enclosed plan should be treated with a chemical damp proof
course in accordance with BS6576.
Whilst not all sections of the wall are accessible or visibly damp at this time it is not advisable
to treat part of a wall as this will result in the dampness spreading beyond the treated section.
Therefore, treating the full wall is recommended.
• The wall indicated in the enclosed floor plan should be 'tanked' to prevent lateral penetration
of ground moisture from the higher adjacent ground levels. Tanking should be carried out in
accordance with BS8102 standards. The treatment should extend at least to the same height
as the adjacent ground level, with a damp-proof course (DPC) installed above this to prevent
moisture from rising above the tanked area.
• The areas of masonry and wall plaster affected with hygroscopic salts must be renewed and
the wall treated with anti-sulphate solution to neutralise the contaminant salts. The areas of
masonry and wall plaster affected with hygroscopic salts must be renewed and the wall
treated with anti-sulphate solution to neutralise the contaminant salts. On walls where damp
proof course treatments are required it is necessary to remove the plaster to a height of at
least 1meter, or 300mm above the highest level of dampness and the plaster must be
stopped at least one inch above any solid floors.
• Renew the skirting boards on the walls where treatments are to be carried out. The rear face
and bottom edge of the new skirting boards should be treated with wood preserver to protect
the timber for the duration of time the wall takes to dry.
• Renew the rot affected timber panelling below the staircase. If new timbers are o be installed
there should be physical damp proof course installed below the sole plate to provide
separation from the solid floor.

Urgh, chemical damp proof course. Really disappointing to see a "damp and timber specialist" recommending this "solution".

You mention lack of ventilation, but I don't see any reference to that in their report either.

It sounds from your update like you're happy to walk away as they're unwilling to negotiate, and that's probably for the best considering your situation (family with 3 children who understandably don't want intrusive work doing after purchase) but it might still be worth visiting the following excellent website (to which I have absolutely no affiliation, but was a great help to me when renovating my first house with serious damp problems):

https://www.heritage-house.org/

Restore, Survey, Understand old buildings

Restore, repair old building,damp problems in old house,home insurance, building survey,building contractor, oak framing, timber and damp survey.

https://www.heritage-house.org

DrPrunesqualer · 02/09/2025 17:55

PropertyGuy · 02/09/2025 15:54

Urgh, chemical damp proof course. Really disappointing to see a "damp and timber specialist" recommending this "solution".

You mention lack of ventilation, but I don't see any reference to that in their report either.

It sounds from your update like you're happy to walk away as they're unwilling to negotiate, and that's probably for the best considering your situation (family with 3 children who understandably don't want intrusive work doing after purchase) but it might still be worth visiting the following excellent website (to which I have absolutely no affiliation, but was a great help to me when renovating my first house with serious damp problems):

https://www.heritage-house.org/

Show quote history

Agree
The recommendations by the so called specialist are truly crap and show a complete lack of understanding of how buildings work
This is exactly why buildings are damp…ie buggered up by those without a clue

Would suggest SPAB technical notes aswel
and Marianne Suhrs book ‘Old House Handbook’ ( She’s a spab scholar )

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