How much for a damp proof course?

[RelievedItsOver]

Hi all,

I live in the NW in a 1930s semi. I've notice damp at the front of the house where my porch is. It comes up to about a brick or two high in the front porch. It is probably just as bad around the front bay window, although there are no signs of water coming coming through the internal brick.

The pointing in that area is shocking so I will need to redo that when the weather is dry.

I have a damp proof contractor coming to take a look at my property on Saturday. Just wondering if anyone has had theirs done recently and how much it cost? Is it worth calling out an independent surveyor instead?

TIA.

I'll upload pics in a mo. The plot thickens. I've had all the ceappybwoodenncocerings that house the soil pipe and associated other pipes from the gas meter removed to inspect for leaks in the WC. There are zero leaks.

There was one a number of years ago where the toilet waste pipe had a join, but like I said, the ex fixed it.

He is here with me atm, and he has had a look on the outside of the property. ALL of the brick air vents have been filled in with clear silicone 🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️ AND there are tell-tale holes in the mortar of previous chemical injections.

I'm going to leave a dehumidifier running in the downstairs lav for a while. Ex has said he will unplug the air vent bricks when he brings his drill as it's far easier than to try and scrape it out. Who ever had this house before me was an effing muppet!! 😤 I'm going to repoint the bottom of the house in spring/summer with lime.

Defo getting the roof sorted ASAP.

All the crappy wooden coverings**

The downstairs lav - all pipe work and surrounding dry as a bone.

Images showing internal porch which has damp. The outside shows barely there mortar plus some vegetation that will be drawing moisture in.

Images showing shoddy pointing, silicone-gunked up air vents and injection holes for damp.

Very nice quality bricks but need skilled repointing

And I can't see the DPC

Have a look beside and under the doorsteps and original airbricks

It might have been bridged by later paving.

Do you know the year of build? And where are you? DPC was compulsory from 1875 and two or three bricks above where ground level was when the house was built.

Ah I think I can see it at the side of the house where you have the less showy pockmarked bricks and the wide lime mortar joints.

Observe that efflorescence is visible on the bricks below the slate DPC showing that (1) it is doing its job and (2) you probably have a hard-water leak nearby.

As per PJ, nice brickwork, those joints are 5 to 8mm wide and repointing that is a skilled job.
They need to be scraped out to about 20mm, brushed then washed to remove ‘dust’, then the new pointing needs to be pressed/packed in to fill the gap completely, though there are machines that do this also.
If you are not careful, it can be very messy. It also takes some time, however you have no choice as you can’t leave it like that.
If you get quotes for repointing, definitely get references or look at their previous work as you don’t want messy repointing.

Apologies @PigletJohn, which image are you referring to? I cant see a slate doc

Dpc*

Oh and my house is 1930s built. I'm in Lancashire.

The picture without an air brick in it

When you open to full size

A brick and a half above the paving

Black line in the mortar joint

ugc-assets.mumsnet.com/images/202301/large-bU9lblXSBpE5MueHPBkKMkZAyqjz6MvMtycRo1bY.jpg

Oh I see it now. Thank you 😊

That's where the damp guy tested the wall at the back of the house from inside and it read high on his meter. But to touch that wall it doesnt feel damp

Are there any pipes on the inside at that point, corresponding with the lime bloom?

There are no pipes AFAIK at that point. It's just the wall. I live in a soft water area, not sure if that has any effect.

If it was my house:

1. flashing and guttering
2. airbricks
3. lower the height of the ground by creating a channel. It looks like the concrete or slabs are 1.5 brick courses below the DPC and you need min 2 courses but better 3. Can be filled with large stones/pebbles
4. repoint

That's useful advice @C4tastrophe. The roof will be imminent as will opening up the air bricks.

Pointing will be done when I've saved a bit more money as I think I'll get the whole lot done on the house by a professional.

Creating a channel will be a bit longer if I decide to do that option.

Thanks to you knowledgeable folk who took the time to help.

Further update: so the roofer came out and has redone the chimney flashing and pointed my ridge tiles as well as capped the chimney. But wrt the leaky gutter... turns out the original contractor who fitted them hasn't sloped them properly towards the down pipe at the back of the house 🤦‍♀️

I now have a lovely damp bay window wall inside the house as well as a tide mark on the outside where the water has bounced up high. Plus a damp patch in the front room where the brick work joins the porch wall.

Ok, so I'm hoping my ex (we are on very good terms) will sort the slope on the gutters out over half term. But.... my question is what do I do with the damp patch that's in the front room which is pushing the wall paper off? Will I need new plaster? Will I need the whole wall plastering? Its confined to one area.

I cant believe tradesmen who install guttering for a living wouldnt think to slope the gutters towards the down pipe!! F$€#ing muppets!

A 'damp contractor' will be calling to sell their products. The ubiquitous 'damp meter' will be stuck into the wall covering and they'll tell you you need their chemical product injected.
In reality something has changed for you to get damp.

1. The outside ground level.
2. Leaking guttering, water run off.
3. Leaking drain under the house
4. Blocked air bricks if suspended floor.
5. Water leak from mains pipework.
6. Central heating leak.
7. Condensation from cold surfaces ( perhaps the toilet cistern)
8. Damp transfer from external walls if they've been pumped with insulation.

Please think long and hard before injecting.

Definitely not injecting (although there are tell holes along the external walls where it's been done before).

It's the gutters causing it. Once they are sorted how do rectify the damage to the internal walls? Will a replaster of the full wall be required?

Oh and the blocked air vents wont be helping the current situation

So glad you have found the Heritage House website. Damp is often caused by the people living in the house or poor repairs