Cooker hood electrics stopped working

[CatAndHisKit]

I wonder if I can avoid calling an electrician (hoping PJ can help)!

Hood stopped working this evening - neither the lights nor extractor works, seems sudden. I recently replaced the two bulbs that we use (two other ones expired ages ago but we don't need them(, one of the bulbs couldn't be fitted back very tight into the ring - the glass cover was a litlte wobbly, possibly that was contributing?

It seemed to coincide with the strong gusts of wind outside - it extracts to the side of he house and when it's gusty the sound 'rattles around'in the hood.

Finally because my mum is stayng and she cooks a lot - the lights and extactor have been on very frequently, and nore so than in the summer as kitchen isn't hugely light and we use the hood lights a lot when cooking.

Is it a short curcuit and fusehas blown? Is it anything to do with the general house fuse box -that's in the cellar so not keen to be going there if not, or can it be corrected on the wall where the switch is?

Any other solutions? TIA

check above the hood if any switch or inside cupboard,it could be pressed by accident trying to shove things.
next thing, check the consumer unit if the MCB tripped.
try the switch if it comes with it own fuse,easy to replace the fuse.
the chance if light isnt working as well,the fan might be fine.
hope it helps

If the whole thing has stopped working, it may well be the fuse.

Do you know if it is supplied from the kitchen lighting circuit, or the socket circuit?

If the socket circuit, there will (should) be an FCU supplying it, with a 3A or 5A fuse in it. It might be switched and will look something like one of these. If it was installed by someone with half a brain or more the FCU will be in clear sight, next to the row of sockets above your worktop, and directly above the place, above or to the side of the hood, where the cable comes out of the wall. If it was installed by someone with less than half a brain, it will be hidden away in an inaccessible place.

If it is connected to the lighting circuit, there is a fair chance that it is connected to the ceiling rose. If you are unlucky enough to have downlighters, the connection will probably be hidden away inside the ceiling and will provide hours of fun playing "hunt the junction box" unless you can see where the floor above has been sawed open and nailed down.

"directly below the place" not "directly above the place"

Thank you, mumsy and PJ.
Had a look, can't find the fuse switch in the kitchen for it! Went to look at the general house box in the cellar - there is a fuse labellled 'Long kitchen' which i'm guessing might be it - on a circuit involving some other lights. It's 'on' as it should be.

Strange thing is, the mid-level lights under hanging units (other wall) have its own FSU - thanks PJ for giving me the term for it - and the fridge FSU is next to it, but can't see either cooker/oven one or for the sockets mid-level on another wall as mentioned.

Otoh I remember fuse blowing on the ceiling lights (downlighters as you've guessed) and they aer on the house board in the cellar- can't remember if hood was affected then but I don't think it was!
I've looked in cupboards underneath but they have back panels, yet are fitted so can't move anything. NOthing around the hood itself - the cooker is between two windows and nothing there to the sides either.
Can it be at a distance elsewhere?

So are you saying, PJ, that if it's on the same circuit as ceiling lights or mid-level wall sockets, then it's impossible to repair and may need access to inside the ceiling? Btw I can't see any wires above where you say the FSU might be located.

What to do though, sounds like even an electrician wouldn't be able to fix it as I dont want the ceiling to be damaged! Ugh

If it's fed from the lighting circuit, then there (probably) isn't an FCU. In that case it may be a loose connection that has burned out, quite likely at the point where the cooker hood cable connects into the lighting circuit. This burnout of a loose connection is not unusual when an old-style or halogen filament (incandescent) lamps blows. It is rare with energy-saving lamps as they use less power and don't often create a power surge.

A qualified electrician can easily determine if power is being delivered to the hood (if it is, you probably have a defective control or switch in the hood) or not (so probably a faulty connection in the ceiling). Having determined where to look, s/he can trace it back. If the hood is faulty it may be less trouble to replace it with new. Cooker hoods sometimes have circuit boards or switches that spares cannot be found for. If it is a major brand and grossly expensive it is more likely to be worth repairing.

A fault in the ceiling will start by peering up the light holes, and may end by lifting floorboards above.

If it's a hood with a big decorative chimney, the connection cable may come out of the wall and be hidden behind the chimney. Some people consider switches and connections to be horribly ugly so that they must be hidden out of sight. Like putting crinolines on your piano legs.

if the light itself comes with separate switch from the fan,check the light bulb,(try any light bulb will fit in there).
if it works then you know the power reaches the hood.

I have a similar problem!!
The extractor works fine, but the lights will fladh for a split second when switched on, then nothing. Problem started when a bulb went and we put a new one one in.

Sorry, can't help solve it though, we're stuck, and it seems a trivial thing to get an electrician out over!

does it happens every time you switch on the light/fan.
then, check if the bulb is tight enough.
did you replace like for like bulb
it is not LED bulb :)

chebby

I might be that the bulbs are not correctly seated, but it is also possible that the new ones or LEDs or something of the wrong voltage. post a photo of one please. Miniature lamps were briefly popular when tiny halogens came into fashion, but now LEDs are available I think they will fall out of use.

Thanks! I'll do that in the morning, the problem happened A few months ago, but we have not long had a baby so it's fallen to the bottom of the pile to fix!

thanks, PJ. So if it's a loose /bunt out connection in hood, is that easily repaired by an electrician, ir would it be expensive? Ithink these aer energy-saving bulbs, though.
Ugh lifting the floorboards! Ok-ish for one half of the kitchen but the other half is under the bathroom with ceramic tiles on floor!
I'll try to replace a bulb - lights are on separate switch. I've just replaced both about 3 weeks ago. Not sure if that was the reason (one fits just a bit loosely).

*burnt (sorry for typos, too much staring at the screen today!)

This happened to me. It turns out the switch was in a high up cupboard and when I'd shoved something in the cupboard I'd flicked the switch off.

actually no I don't think they are energy saving! they are those tiny two-prong bulbs that fitinto slots and are behind glass.

have changed one of hte bulbs - nothing.

show us a photo of the bulb please

and tell us what letters and numbers are on it

Is it like this?

www.wickes.co.uk/search?q=mr16%3Arelevance%3Acategory%3A1000073&text=mr16#

Some of them are defined by the size of the front glass, measured in eighths of an inch, and the ones that didn't originate in America are defined by the distance between the centres of the pins, measured in millimetres.

Some of them are 12volt and some are 230volt, and you can't always tell by looking at them.

This is very annoying.

Oh no, they aer the tiny bulbs with no cover/case - the glass bulb covers and metal frames are fittings in the hood.
It's this kind of thing (12V)
www.budgetlight.co.uk/osram-64440-halostar-standard-50w-12v-gy6-35clear?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIl7Ks9_jw3wIVD1XTCh2TiQNvEAQYASABEgLT0vD_BwE

www.amazon.co.uk/PACK-HQ-HALOGEN-LAMP-BULBS/dp/B0013OBU7Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=lighting&tag=mumsnetforum-21&ie=UTF8&qid=1547595362&sr=1-3&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A1260457031

hope this works

Having trouble attaching photos. But here goes again.

Thanks for any light you could she'd on the situation!

@CatAndHisKit

I don't think I've seen that particular type before, with the pins sticking down. There is a similar "capless" bulb, where the wires are folded round the wedge-like glass base
www.budgetlight.co.uk/philips-ecohalo-clickline-g9

Are you sure you have the right kind?

I suppose the instructions are lost. If you know the make and model it might say on the makers website

BTW those halogen bulbs must not be touched with the fingers, as skin oil soaks into the "glass" shell and damages them.

@TheLovleyChebbyMcGee

luckily, yours has the details of the bulb on it, it's a G4 base, 12volt, 20Watt.

G4 means it has two pins, at 4mm centres ( which seems very small)
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bi-pin_lamp_base

so perhaps they are the same as shown before and I was wrong.

Are you the same person, or two different?

I hate those horrid little lamps.

The bulb are the type linked to above, they have:
EUO401.8
1.8w 2800K

230mA 12V
18W17

Sorry, couldn't get photo to post and sadly my phone corrected my awesome pun from shed to she'd!

2 different. Apologies to the OP for shamelessly stealing her thread! I might just go and buy completely new bulbs. I'm sure there are new, but it's another thing to cross off the list as being wrong, many thanks!

Ok, in rereading, I've touched those bulbs, I bet that's my problem!

Sorry, I've got a non-sleeping 4 month old, I used to be smarter.