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Living overseas

Whether you're considering emigrating or an expat abroad, you'll find likeminds on this forum.

Moving from London to Munich?

46 replies

Blackf0restgateau · 16/07/2015 14:00

I'm completely happy in London, we have a good quality of life though work hard. We have 2 kids, 5 and 3.

Would you swap London for Munich?

Is it easy to get childcare at home there (e.g.: au pair/nanny/wrap around for school pick up and drop off)?

What is living in Munich like? Would I be swapping a house for an apartment?

All thoughts much appreciated.

OP posts:
Blackf0restgateau · 20/07/2015 19:59

Good question!

What makes Munich attractive to me [so far]?

  1. I cannot deny that the primary driver would be the career step for DH so more money and the role on his CV, opens up his work possibilities nicely over the next 10+ years. This needs to be worth more than what we already have or I wouldn't consider it; as I said in my OP I'm happy and settled in London.
  2. The 'adventure' of it. I keep getting flashbacks to my time in Brussels; getting to know the places to go, making new friends. It would be a challenge but I haven't challenged myself like this for sometime. Prior to Brussels when I moved to London I literally knew no-one and got a room through the Loot newspaper then built my life from the ground up.
  3. The easy access to 'holiday' type destinations, particularly those we can drive to, esp. skiing in winter.
  4. It's picturesque - the quaint buildings in the city and the castles in the surrounding countryside.
  5. I love rules and orderliness. When we go on holiday I enjoy the resorts and hotels popular with German tourists as they will be well-run and clean without raucous behaviour.
  6. I do think we'll lead a 'healthier' lifestyle in terms of fresh air and exercise if we lived there.
OP posts:
Ochsenauge · 22/07/2015 11:43

I moved from London to Munich with young children, and know several other people who did the same.

I don't live there any more, though I had a happy time for the few years I was there. I still live in Germany, and there are things I miss now about the lifestyle in Munich (though also things I don't miss!)

I had a friend with a "home help" in Munich, but they were paid for through health insurance because my friend was ill - there is also a service that offers childcare when a parent is ill, and I'm not sure if it was the same thing. I know the home help did various things like cleaning, shopping, looking after the DC a little. Presumably you could hire one privately without being ill, but I'm afraid I don't know what it is called.

The no-shopping on Sunday thing is a bit of a pain. But it is easy to live somewhere within a stone's throw of a small supermarket, greengrocer, bakery etc - they are everywhere. I used to just buy a few things daily rather than do a big shop. You get into the habit quite quickly and lots of the shops are so small it really takes hardly any time. My DC love(d) coming shopping, because they often get given treats - a lollipop, or a piece of sausage, or a banana or a bit of roll, in practically every shop. I was very shocked at first how often strangers (not just shop owners, but people in the street) gave my children things like sweets, or hazelnuts.
Strangers also don't hold back if they think your parenting is not up to scratch - they'll march up and berate you for not putting your child in a hat, or not zipping up their coat or something. They'll often strike up a conversation with the DC on public transport - it's not like London where everyone avoids eye contact.

The Facebook group "Parents in Munich" is a good resource of English-speaking information and support - you can easily become part of the expat community (if that's what you want) and there is lots of advice, and organised or casual events etc.

While I was in Munich, I did find I socialised mainly with other expats, and didn't really integrate that well. Now we have moved somewhere smaller I have more German friends, and feel a bit more integrated. But it was my fault for not trying harder to integrate. There are so many English speakers in Munich that it's easy to fall into just socialising with that group in your own little bubble. Not that there's anything wrong with that, I hasten to add, if that's what you want!

Minniemarf · 26/07/2015 22:55

I moved to Munich in January and I love it. We live about 30 minutes away near the international school. At first the lack of Sunday openings really irritated me but now I really appreciate the dedicated family time it promotes. We have just returned from a week in Italy, it's wonderful to have so many gorgeous destinations a few hours drive away. I'm already hoping my husband's 3 years here gets extended.

Blackf0restgateau · 13/11/2015 21:07

Okayyyyyyyyyyyy.......

DH has been offered the post. Package is excellent so rental cost/school fees not a problem. It's looking like 2-3 years. They want him there asap, we may wait until the end of the academic year to move the kids with him commuting weekly.

My boss is aware of the prospect but I haven't formally requested a transfer yet.

I have not even visited. I have no idea how to make my life work in Germany. I can't drive and want to keep my 3 day a week job. I'm worried I'll be expected to be a lady who lunches. That's not my thing though I wouldn't like to be completely friendless the whole time I'm there.

I know you've already given me some invaluable advice and information but I could do with a few words to make me feel better.

OP posts:
mrsmortis · 16/11/2015 13:18

You'll be fine.

Practicalities first. I lived in Munich for 5 years without a car. Very few of my friends had one. Public transport is great. Possibly even better than in London.

On finding somewhere to live: With a package of the sort that you are talking about help with finding somewhere will be included. Make friends with the agent and ask their opinions. They are useful people to know and will also be able to help you with bank accounts, schools, etc.

If you aren't going to move until after the end of this school year then make use of the time. Spend several weekends (or perhaps the whole of the Easter Holidays) in Munich working out how to get around etc. Look at the different areas you might want to live, look a the schools, practice getting around on public transport.

Are you church goers? If so I'd suggest you look up Peace Church. It's an English speaking Methodist congregation in the middle of the city. It's full of expats from all over the world and they will be able to give you lots of help and advice. It's also a good place to start making friends as everyone has been in the situation that you are in.

Good luck, it's a great adventure (we're 3 months into our first international placement since we had our kids). Make the most of it.

MmeLindor · 16/11/2015 16:17

oooh, how fab! You'll love it. Munich is a great place to live. I'm almost sad that we didn't move there when we had the chance.

Re your home help job - you could probably employ someone on a EU 500 basis (or however much it is now - it used to be about that). A Haushaltshilfe is what you are looking for. Shouldn't be difficult to find, and preferable to constantly changing babysitters.

If your office is near the airport, then see if you can find a house on the same sbahn (tram) line. As far as I remember though, the Int School is the opposite side of the city!

Munich is pretty good for convenience food, as they have a high proportion of single households. I haven't used this company but they do online shopping. Looks like Rewe do online shopping too. Get a big freezer and check out Eismann, we used them when we were in Germany and they were great. Good quality.

turkeyboots · 16/11/2015 16:36

Munich is wonderful, public transport is great, buses, trams, underground (U Bahn) and suburban train service mean driving isn't essential, especially if you live in the city or suburban towns.

The international schools didn't do wrap round care or holiday clubs when I went to them, but nannies and au pairs where fairly common. My parents brought au pairs out from UK and that worked well for us.

Wolpertinger · 16/11/2015 17:24

I've lived in London and for the first 2 years of our marriage DH lived in Munich and I went at weekends.

I'd totally go to Munich.

Not driving will not be a problem as public transport is amazing even in suburbia. Make sure you live on the S Bahn if you are further out.
Munich is a modern buzzy city - Bavaria can be like the 1950s though. Even in Munich all shops will be shut on Sundays. However shopping is normal supermarket shopping although people do go to bakeries etc a lot more than here.

There is masses of access to holiday type places. We did a mixture of train and hiring a car but went to the Alps, Austria, castles, medieval towns etc. If you are in to art Munich is a major museum and gallery destination.

There is a large expat community and you would definitely not be friendless. We looked at me moving out there (in the end DH came back) and found English language knitting groups, meetups etc. I'd suggest going to the Readery which is an English language second hand bookshop which also has social events.

Blackf0restgateau · 16/11/2015 17:57

You are all wonderful! Thank you so much, this makes me feel much better! Great idea about the Easter holidays too!

He's accepted the position, we're reading through the paperwork tonight. I expect it will be announced in the company later this week and we'll then have to tell the kids. I fear for how DD1 will take it as she's so settled but we're putting the adventure spin on it. He's going to start popping over there asap and be full time there from the new year. Well, 2016's going to be busy!

OP posts:
tallpoppies · 25/11/2015 23:37

Okay....a couple of things I need to ask about and mention. I've belatedly read this thread tonight.
Are the children going to be going to the international school? Will this be MIS in Starnberg or BIS? I lived in Munich for 3 years and my children went to MIS, the school is nowhere near Munich city centre which is not a problem as there are buses that will get the children to and from school. However, you will need to go to the school fairly regularly. This is also how you will, at least initially, meet other people. MIS is also away from the centre of the town of Starnbeg and I'm not aware of any public transport that goes here. If your husband is going to be away a lot with work it will be fairly essential that you can drive if the children go to MIS. The only alternative to this would be living very close to the school and cycling in, you could also then cycle to the s bahn in Starnberg and from here reach Munich very easily. If the children are going to the local German school then none of this is a problem and if you are working you may not need a social life outside of family and work. If you need a hand with areas near the school then pm me. Best of luck with your move, we had a lovely 3 years there xxx

Ilikedmyoldusernamebetter · 26/11/2015 06:01

BIS (Bavarian International School) is on the same side of Munich as the airport, MIS ((Munich International School) is on the other side. There is no U or S bahn in Haimhausen where BIS is though - there are school buses though.

Ilikedmyoldusernamebetter · 26/11/2015 06:01

BIS (Bavarian International School) is on the same side of Munich as the airport, MIS ((Munich International School) is on the other side. There is no U or S bahn in Haimhausen where BIS is though - there are school buses though.

Ilikedmyoldusernamebetter · 26/11/2015 06:11

There's the Munich International Women's Club for adult female social stuff I believe, though we're outside Munich so I never got into the ex pat clubs and societies. The dreaded Toytown has a meetups section (Stammtisch is a regular informal group meet up, usually in an informal restaurant/ beer garden in summer). There is also a facebook group called PWN Munich - Professional Women's Network Munich which organises both social and networking events in English, if you're after other working woman friends.

I must say those are all things I've heard of rather than ever been to due to rarely actually making it into Munich even though it's less than an hour away! Blush Was briefly a member of the PWN when somebody I know added me slightly randomly and they seem quite an active group.

herethereandeverywhere · 26/11/2015 18:52

This reply has been deleted

Message withdrawn at poster's request.

Ilikedmyoldusernamebetter · 27/11/2015 05:46

Why did you withdraw your posters herethere, I wouldn't worry about not being that keen to meet up with Toytowners, the board does make AIBU look tame and restrained sometimes :o

SilverHawk · 12/12/2015 23:01

Are 150 applicants normal for a fifth floor apartment with no lift?
If so, where to look next?

Ilikedmyoldusernamebetter · 16/12/2015 13:25

Silver was that a very good value for money city centre flat?

I'd say look a bit further out but that's my solution for everything as we live in the sticks there is competition for the "prime" properties (ones in good locations which don't cost the earth) and some landlords can be fussy and only want German tenants (or tenants who speak fluent German) for easier communication and because foreigners have a repution for not staying long, meaning the hassle of re-letting after a year or two (many Germans rent the same property for decades which is obviously less hassle for the landlord) but I'd say 150 applicants is not normal, no.

SilverHawk · 16/12/2015 20:49

It was in Schwabing. Is Munich's rent cap causing this problem?
Prime tenant is German :)

Ilikedmyoldusernamebetter · 17/12/2015 06:44

I hadn't heard anything about the rent cap causing a problem, can't see why it would except maybe that in combination with the removal of the previously high standard brokers fees it might increase tenant mobility... Schwabing is massively popular obviously, and normally very expensive, so if the fact it was a 5th floor flat with no lift meant it was offered at a more reasonable/ competitive rent I suppose everyone and their cousin tried to snap it up!

Could you try a bit further out, somewhere like Trudering-Riem (still Munich, not outlying villages, good transport links but might be slightly less competitive!)

SilverHawk · 18/12/2015 21:02

Maybe.
The three main places to commute to are Garching, Flughafen and Karlsplatz.

Ilikedmyoldusernamebetter · 19/12/2015 10:46

You could live in Ismaning then - actually a better location for those commutes than Schwabing anyway.

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