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Holidays

Use our Travel forum for recommendations on everything from day trips to the best family-friendly holiday destinations.

Uzbekistan

73 replies

Glitterbiscuits · 03/01/2023 17:04

I know it's a bit obscure but has anyone had a holiday in Uzbekistan?

Thinking of doing something a bit different in the Autumn.

I'd appreciate any advice, tips and reviews. I have very little knowledge of this part of the world

OP posts:
EastLondonObserver · 04/01/2023 19:05

Went in 2002. Go for it. Fascinating country.

EastLondonObserver · 04/01/2023 19:09

We backpacked around. You don’t need to go with a tour group. Food is great, if limited - plov, manti etc. There was still a Soviet hangover in terms of service, but that may have changed now. We just thought it was funny and part of the experience.

FatArse123 · 19/01/2023 09:13

I'm going in April, and am now feeling quite excited reading this thread!

I am also vegetarian - my top tip for visiting former USSR countries is to seek out the Georgian restaurants, there's usually at least one in every city, and they always have an excellent range of vegetarian options. I would like to try Uzbek food though, somewhere.....

Zippedydoo123 · 19/01/2023 09:19

A friend is teaching English there at present and is posting really interesting photos on facebook. She is in Tashkent but goes on amazing hikes.

At the moment there it has been minus 19 though lol.

Glitterbiscuits · 19/01/2023 13:01

@FatArse123

Please, please , please come back to this thread and tell me all about it!

OP posts:
FatArse123 · 19/01/2023 13:04

@Glitterbiscuits Will do! Although I think my itinerary is fairly standard: Bukhara, trip into the mountains to the north for some walking, then Samarkand and Tashkent. I'm not really sure what to expect, something to do with turquoise tiling and dusty landscapes.

MistyRock · 19/01/2023 13:21

Zippedydoo123 · 19/01/2023 09:19

A friend is teaching English there at present and is posting really interesting photos on facebook. She is in Tashkent but goes on amazing hikes.

At the moment there it has been minus 19 though lol.

True, and the pavements are still icy! Good job the apartments have got good heating systems!

saraclara · 19/01/2023 13:23

The temperature range for a single country is huge. It's SO hot in the summer and SO cold in the winter. It must be quite weird to live with!

MistyRock · 19/01/2023 13:26

It's minus 10 today so warming up a bit. 😂

GrumpyPanda · 19/01/2023 13:32

If you go make sure to bring back some of the delicious pickled garlic. My trip was in 1990 so not much advice beyond that, but I'm sure the incredibly skilled pickpockets are still around!

MrsDanversGlidesAgain · 04/02/2023 19:25

@Glitterbiscuits If you are interested in seeing something of the area before you go Sam Willis's programme The Silk Road is on PBS starting 8 Feb. It covers China to Venice and I think the 'Stans are episode 2.

MavisFlump · 09/02/2023 11:46

A member of my family worked out there for two years, they said it was a fascinating country and I would love to see it. Unfortunately DH isn’t interested and I’m a wimp….. Maybe one day 😊

FatArse123 · 18/04/2023 14:29

Reporting back as promised!

We flew both ways with Uzbekistan airways: excellent legroom, rubbish service and no entertainment whatsoever, we didn't go with kids but it would have been a struggle. But for us, fine (and direct).

We started off in Tashkent, which is an interesting, totally non-touristy city. It doesn't really have much in the way of sights, especially compared to Samarkand etc. I'm glad we went there though, it's an odd mix of spectacular austere architecture and abundant greenery. The atmosphere was oddly solemn compared to everywhere else that we we went, but it's definitely very local. The metro is amazing, very ornate.

Then to Samarkand. The Registan is one of those rare world-famous sights that doesn't disappoint in some way, it's truly amazing, and worth visiting both at day and at night (the ticket lasts all day). Other than that Samarkand is nice smallish city, and not massively touristy.

After that we went on a three day tour/homestay in the Nuratau Mountains, which was the undisputed highlight for me. Beautiful scenery, friendly people, apricot trees, hiking, donkeys, dogs without ears (I don't understand why). All very rough-and-ready, rock hard beds and power blackouts, but the family were lovely and they were excellent cooks. Loved it.

Then on to a desert yurt for the night near a big lake. The scenery on this part of the trip was amazing, huge sweeping desert landscapes, dead straight roads going on for miles, fluffy little clouds. Shepherds with their flocks grazing on the scrubby ground, all very hypnotic.

Finally to Bukhara. I had mixed feelings - it's a beautiful city, chock full of medieval Islamic architecture, but unlike Samarkand it's very touristy, extremely popular with retirees from western Europe on tours - "Silk Road Adventure" in the back pages of the Telegraph type scene. And to a peasant like me, one madrasah looks quite similar to another, so why see seven? The authorities are doing an excellent job of maintaining them, but local life has mostly left the centre and at points I felt a bit like I was in Chessington World of Adventures. That said, if you step 100 yards away from the "old town" you're back in real Uzbekistan; there's a sort a villagey feel even in the centre. I'm glad we didn't go to Khiva, which as I understand it is more of the same. I read somewhere that one should honestly ask themselves just how interested they are in medieval Islamic architecture when creating their Uzbekistan itinerary. I would second that!

People everywhere (perhaps with some exception of Tashkent, which is very urban) were lovely, warm, interested, kind. I would recommend learning a few words of Russian though, that's the usual language for tourism. We barely scraped a 'please' and thank you' and wished we'd bothered. The culture is fascinating - I suppose it's got a central-asian vibe, but since this is my first time in the region it felt completely new. I felt completely safe, the whole time. Not only are people welcoming, but there's also a sense of a heavy police presence, not that as a tourist I was troubled by this. There was absolutely no hassle anywhere, but taxi drivers will quote high fares by local standards; I didn't sweat it though, we're talking £4 rather than £2.

ATMs are everywhere and I accessed by UK account several times without issue - I was worried about this, I think a few years ago this wasn't the case. And everything is very cheap - about 30% of UK prices (and that's in the tourist economy)

Overall, it a strong recommendation from me, for anyone who is thinking about it. It's quite a gentle place so if someone in your party is seeking thrills, I would add in a short side trip from Samarkand to the Fann mountains in Tajikistan, or something.

FatArse123 · 18/04/2023 14:43

I meant to add, as a vegetarian, Uzbekistan was surprisingly OK. People seemed to understand what it meant. I ate lots of salads, and a form of pasta seems to be popular, so that made a few appearances. We did go to a couple of Georgian restaurants too, which have a good range of vegetarian things.

saraclara · 18/04/2023 14:50

I would really suggest that people 'do' Uzbekistan independently. Tours are always going to aim at the 'sights' and yes, though I adore the architecture, I dislike being 'toured' around the mosques and madrassas. I loved wandering around the backstreets and the local markets and doing what I pleased when I pleased. And when I went to a site I could spend ten minutes or several hours there, and not tied to anyone else's itinerary. And go at the quiet times.

It's actually a really easy country to navigate independently, and it makes all the difference.

saraclara · 18/04/2023 14:53

Thanks for the update, by the way! And I'm glad you ate okay. A veggie friend of mine has just come back from there, and he also said that he found that he ate much better than he expected.

I second nuratau. I booked a homestay with a family there too. My friend and I were the only guests, and the family were so hospitable. Only the daughter had a very few words of English, but it mattered not at all.

ProfessorLayton1 · 18/04/2023 21:40

FatArse123 · 18/04/2023 14:43

I meant to add, as a vegetarian, Uzbekistan was surprisingly OK. People seemed to understand what it meant. I ate lots of salads, and a form of pasta seems to be popular, so that made a few appearances. We did go to a couple of Georgian restaurants too, which have a good range of vegetarian things.

Would love to go to Uzbekistan some day.
Would you mind telling how you organised the trip?
I would be travelling with my two girls and am really glad to hear that it is a safe country to travel.

FatArse123 · 19/04/2023 11:53

@ProfessorLayton1
We booked it all independently apart from the Nuratau/Yurt bit, that was through a company called responsible travel that I was mentioned in the Bradt guide. Hotels through booking.com. Train tickets were easy to book using a local agency in the guide, who charged a minimum fee, I think you could easily do it through the Uzbekistan Railways site though. A rather fancy high speed rail network connects Tashkent with the famous cities, but it was mostly block-booked by the tour groups from what I could see, I was yearning to take the slower trains which looked more local. Oddly the most difficult thing was booking the flights - Uzbekistan airways has a dreadful website, but we got there in the end. With Aeroflot our of bounds, the only other realistic airline from the UK is Turkish Airlines, but we were originally booked open jaw into Bukhara, out Tashkent, but the flights changed to a once-weekly service to Bukhara, and we didn't want to risk it. I'd just go for a return to Tashkent with either Uzbekistan or Turkish airlines for this reason.

There's no visa or invitation letter required, so visiting is bureaucratically straightforward.

It's such an easy country to visit, that I would recommend being a bit braver than we were, maybe including the art museum in Nukus, or the Fergana valley.

saraclara · 19/04/2023 12:08

There's no visa or invitation letter required, so visiting is bureaucratically straightforward.

There isn't? That's great. Both times I've been, I needed a visa, and they were a bit of a pain to get. Second time (maybe five years ago?) I had to go to the embassy. If they've relaxed things, that's great. It might also explain you seeing a lot more tour groups than I did, though. I honestly didn't see many at all @FatArse123

Sudeko · 19/04/2023 12:09

My best friend is from Tashkent. I is a wonderful place.
In your situation, I would initially visit the very modern capital of Kazakhstan, get a feel for the culture and then decide whether you want to join a bespoke, small tour to somewhere more remote and authentic. You can do it by yourself but border crossings can be tricky without language skills and you will be crossing three or more depending on your itinerary.

Sudeko · 19/04/2023 12:13

Yes, yes, yes to Georgian zakuski being wonderful food to eat!

DuesToTheDirt · 09/07/2023 10:36

@TizerorFizz or anyone else with recent experience - did you do a tour or travel independently? What do you recommend? We've never done a tour before, always gone independently, but we're looking at a tour for Uzbekistan (+probably Kyrgyzstan or elsewhere). I'd like to remove some of the hassle of travelling independently - last year's holiday took major planning! - but costs seem high compared to doing it ourselves. Or, we could maybe do the cities ourselves and more remote areas on a tour.

Rocknrollstar · 09/07/2023 11:05

We are thinking of going with Riviera. I wouldn’t travel independently .Most tour companies do this trip now.

MrsHamlet · 09/07/2023 12:21

I highly highly highly recommend Kalpak travel. I did the Stans with them in 2019 and they were so efficient and welcoming. We even had dinner with the owner and his wife in Bishkek.

MrsDanversGlidesAgain · 09/07/2023 12:31

I went in 2000 and sounds like it has changed a lot. Thanks for the update, plenty of ideas there for when I can afford to go back, although I'll probably be the 'retiree from western Europe type.'