Any sewing aficionados? I need a stitch and bitch...

[IDontMindMarmite]

Now I know when the Sewing Bee is on, there are loads of super talented ladies who would be a gold mine of information! It'd be great if we could gather. Maybe even have a section to ourselves in "In the club". If this thread doesn't die a death anyway. Please say I if you are in favour!

So over lockdown the sequel, I thought i'd actually get my sewing machine out. I sound like someone who has a clue - I don't. I was gifted a sewing machine years ago. I've made two pairs of curtain tie backs since. I've been to a class or two (made a cushion under supervision! And a canvas bag) but can't say i've truly got the hang. It's getting my head round the machine more than anything. It scares me!

Now though, i've decided to tackle mal fitting clothing. I've put darts in DH's shirts using youtube tutorials. I'd like to adjust some of my tops but would love someone to ask - do you only dart shirts? Youtube tutorials for tops like I have do a different method where you pin and sew a new side seam. Also, can I just use pinking shears to trim the excess fabric instead of doing a final zigzag stitch or is that too lazy?

Any general chat welcomed.

Ooh I'm tempted by this stretch denim (not really)

www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/metallic-coated-stretch-denim-gold/

I got some lovely liberty tana lawn from fabworks, too.

Very 80s @drspouse :o

@PickAChew

I got some lovely liberty tana lawn from fabworks, too.

I've had some lovely cotton wovens from them too actually, good point. I've got a lovely pale pink and a plum spotty sateen waiting to be used.

@IDontMindMarmite

Should I have bought more than one reel of matching thread? For overlocking?

When I got my overlocker at Christmas, I bought two sets of threads:one black, the other white. So I just need to decide if the material is darker or lighter. Adding a beige set sounds good. The sets came with four cones and In practice I use the three-thread stitch for most things, so if I were really efficient I'd be swapping the threads every so often to ensure they get used evenly. Or use the fourth as a regular thread on the normal machine (apparently you just stick the cone in a cup next to the machine and it runs fine from there).

I have white, black, navy and off white but I'm lazy about changing colours!

I'm also after a dress pattern that will be a bit fitted and flattering but not too hard. Winter causal, maybe a coat dress or light boiled wool. Everything on the nice fabric websites is a tent.

Most of my woven dress patterns come from my gertie sews books - they have bodices and skirts that work together. The princess bodice I made from it is a total staple for me. I have the ultimate dress book and the vintage casual one. I'm quite happy to hack and tweak patterns though so they work well for me.

@drspouse

I'm also after a dress pattern that will be a bit fitted and flattering but not too hard. Winter causal, maybe a coat dress or light boiled wool. Everything on the nice fabric websites is a tent.

Sew over it is worth a look. A wrap dress might be more straightforward for fitting than other styles. Also Jennifer Lauren handmade laneway and the avid seamstress a-line are worth a look.

@IDontMindMarmite

I got my dress fabric from Croft Mill which someone recommended, there are lots of beautiful fabrics on their website.

Thank you, i'll be wanting to add the pockets into the seam so will look that up.

I have a week off in a bit, I wonder if I can start and finish it then? If the fabric etc is delivered in time.

By Hand London have a free inseam pocket pattern piece and tutorial on their website byhandlondon.com/blogs/by-hand-london/11628661-nerdy-sewing-tips-how-to-add-side-seam-pockets

Yay! Thank you, love this thread

I love that A line dress but I would really like a cold weather version, but wool prices are as usual £££££. Maybe flannel?

I really must get on with some machining tomorrow as I've just been cutting out loads of stuff and suddenly I seem to have dozens of things to make up (yes, OK, dozens is a bit of an exaggeration ... Lots, I've got lots to make up ).

@RuleOfCat thank you so much for the tip on using a cup next to the sewing machine.

My huge cone that I bought for pennies from Abakan and use for tacking is the exact match for a fabric that’s been sitting around and I was trying to work out how to wind it onto something to use on my sewing machine. I’m off to practice when my house quietens down.

I bought a £9.99 mystery box from pound fabrics last week which turned up at the weekend. I was hoping for some awful colours and prints to use in testing techniques etc but ended up with two very usable dress fabrics, a lovely dark teal chiffon and a fabulous chiffon print which I can imagine being a lovely floaty beach cover up/maxi dress.

Still at least there was some fluorescent lilac linen look stuff for practising with 😂

Nice surprise Jins!

Dressmakers - how do you make sure your piece fits wonderfully? Obviously i'll chose the size I want on the pattern, but the instructions have me putting darts in first.

I use a FBA (Full Bust Adjustment), fitting on tissue first. A lot of people swear by the Palmer and Pletsch method and that's what I'm using for my trousers, but I love an old McCalls book I have that has a really simple FBA for darts. There are other methods in P&P for things like twist tops, flat front t-shirts etc.. TBH for tshirts I just make a bigger size.

If it's got darts then the best thing is to make a toile and use that to get a nice fit, then after you've marked any alterations on it you can disassemble and use it as your cutting pattern. Easier if you have a dressmakers dummy of course (I don't) or can train someone else in your household to pin things where you need them (I haven't, although DH is generally willing to have a go).

Toile - is that the same thing as you were suggesting @drspouse but you use tissue instead of fabric?

I have to full bust adjust everything. Most patterns say what they're drafted for cup wise, if not it seems to be mostly a dressmakers b cup which is 2" difference between upper bust and full bust. To choose my size I either go by the upper bust measurement (if it's there), or work out what the upper bust is by deducting cup size from full bust. That tends to give me a size which fits back and shoulders, then I do some form of full bust adjustment to add the extra inches needed.

I always have to adjust and grade though - my hips are often 10" bigger than the pattern hips if I go by upper bust and waist.

It's literally the garment but made in cheap fabric, usually cotton, sewn together with either small tacking or running stitches. The idea is to put it together well enough to try on but easy enough to unpick/alter to adjust the fit. Because it's fabric it won't tear like tissue will.
I use old sheets or duvet covers as I find polycotton works well, charity shops always have them quite cheaply. I have even bought new sheets to use because it's still cheaper than finding the pattern needs adjusting after you've cut it out of expensive fabric.

Hello again. I haven’t been here for a while but have just been given a second-hand overlocker. Does anyone have tips for good basic patterns for pants and tops for my first experiments in overlocking? Preferably paper patterns as I struggle to print pdfs.

I made my first ever jacket! It was this pattern fridaypatterncompany.com/collections/all-patterns/products/arlo-track-jacket-printed-pattern

I'm pretty happy with it. Yes there were mistakes and where things don't line up to the millimetre, but it's very wearable. I probably wouldn't have considered trying making it, but it came in my sewing subscription box.

I also discovered this magical stuff called 'wonder tape'. It's a water soluble double sided tape that was like magic for holding the zip in position while you sewed it.

Yes I use tissue instead of a toile (UK) or muslin (US).

@MoonlightInVermont you'll want stretch, I assume you mean trousers i.e. northern England pants/US pants not actual underpants?
Kwik Sew are great for stretch patterns but I think they are print your own or trace off.

My first adventures in overlocking were just me using it to finish seams I had already sewn and trimming back the seam allowance, as I was far too scared to go at it straight away, and wanted to get a feel of the steering!

Leggings are the easiest thing to whizz up on an overlocker - I've made loads based on this pattern www.minerva.com/mp/1007161/kwik-sew-sewing-pattern-3636 . You still need a normal sewing machine to do the hems and fit the elastic.

Congratulations @kittykarate, it looks very snug, You must be so proud