Any sewing aficionados? I need a stitch and bitch...

[IDontMindMarmite]

Now I know when the Sewing Bee is on, there are loads of super talented ladies who would be a gold mine of information! It'd be great if we could gather. Maybe even have a section to ourselves in "In the club". If this thread doesn't die a death anyway. Please say I if you are in favour!

So over lockdown the sequel, I thought i'd actually get my sewing machine out. I sound like someone who has a clue - I don't. I was gifted a sewing machine years ago. I've made two pairs of curtain tie backs since. I've been to a class or two (made a cushion under supervision! And a canvas bag) but can't say i've truly got the hang. It's getting my head round the machine more than anything. It scares me!

Now though, i've decided to tackle mal fitting clothing. I've put darts in DH's shirts using youtube tutorials. I'd like to adjust some of my tops but would love someone to ask - do you only dart shirts? Youtube tutorials for tops like I have do a different method where you pin and sew a new side seam. Also, can I just use pinking shears to trim the excess fabric instead of doing a final zigzag stitch or is that too lazy?

Any general chat welcomed.

I made matching christmas t-shirts today and have loads cut out ready to sew tomorrow.

I have ordered my new overlocker

Very exciting! What's the first project you plan to use it for? @drspouse

@StatisticallyChallenged those sound cute, photos or it didn't happen

They haven't been pressed yet

I have about 3 on the go that my old overlocker gave up on.

The overlocker is just such a game changer for sewing stretch fabrics isn't it? So easy.

I'm a bit dubious about an overlocker as you really don't get a second chance with the seam - and I do sometimes have to readjust, even when I've tacked and tried on. It's irrelevant anyway as I don't have room for one!
I still cut out on the floor but I wear a pair of carpet fitters/builders knee pads.

What a game-changer; they are undoubtedly the best things that never got returned to DH workshop that I have ever 'liberated'.
I think he got them from Screwfix, but now they are mine, all mine .

I didn't have space for one...bought it anyway

Moved house 5 months later

Lovely Statistically!

I'm impressed with all those neckbands, @statisticallychallenged as they sometimes take me as long to get right as all the rest put together!

😊 thanks. They'll look better once they're pressed. DH's was a challenge - I forgot he has a massive neck so when I got him to check the fit - thankfully before decorating them - the neckband was like a choker. Ending up increasing the neck massively and converting to v neck !

@StatisticallyChallenged I need you to do a band tutorial. They scare me. Yours look amazing.

I've done another 5 of the buggers today (plus a cowl neck which is just like sewing on a really fat band!

I've had my share of band cock-ups! These days, all I do is:
-Cut the band (normally about 85-90% of the length of neckline if there isn't one on the pattern or I've changed the neck)
-Sew the ends of the band together (fabric right side together)
-Fold the fabric so it is now half the depth and wrong side together (making the band, basically). If you can be arsed, press it but I'll admit I never do.

At this point I have the top right side out
-find the centre of the back. Put the seam of the neckband at centre back, and clip in place. The band should be to the outside of the fabric of the main neck, with all raw edges aligned
-at the point I hold that centre back point (both band and neck) and effectively fold the neck and band in half so I find the centre point at the front. Clip at front like you did at back, band on the outside
-now hold the front and back point together- the place where the neck and band now fold is your quarter points. Clip these
-I tend to go in between the quarter points too, so I end up with 8 clips per neck band in most cases.

It's worth remembering that your shoulder seams are almost never your quarter points. The vast majority of necklines are bigger at the front so your quarter points are usually in front of the shoulder seam (unless it's a raglan!)

Then I just run it through the overlocker - I find it easier to put it through in such a way that the band is on top so I can stretch each 8th of the band as it is going through whilst keeping the main body fabric flat.

I top stitch my bands too, to keep the seam in place. I normally use my straight stretch stitch on my sewing maching for this. Start at the back, with the band to the right of my presser foot and the main fabric under (and to the right). Make sure the seam is pushed down towards the body. Align the right edge of the presser foot with the point where the band and body meet, set needle on its rightmost setting, and just start stitching slowly. Feed the fabric gently so the edge of the presser stays in line with the edge of the band. And do not stretch the fabric, very light touch so it stays in place but doesn't get stretched out.

By clips I mean little sewing clips btw - pins work too of course but I find I have a tendency to stab myself with necklines, especially ones for the 2 year old!

Great, clear instructions for a stretch neckband, Statistically

I've found this tutorial from Lauren Guthrie (former GBSB contestant) very helpful too. It's long, but she's incredibly thorough and clear.

She's doing it basically the same way - she just marks the quarter points first instead of being lazy like me and doing it in the fly. Good vid

Yeah, Tilly Walnes does the same. It's a standard technique.

Occasionally a bit of buggery makes you have to try again. I hand baste to make it easier to undo. I'm slow at both basting and unpicking because my hands are knackered. Machine basting is much harder to undo, mind.

I never baste anything.

I’m sitting here wishing we lived in a detached house as I want to get sewing 😂 (semi detached the I worry the sewing machine is too noisy at this time of day!)

So close to finishing the Sapporo coat now although I’ve messed up the lining. My regret is using cheap fabric - it’s actually coming out very well so far and I might have to invest in more expensive wool and make it again 😬

I only baste stuff that refuses to behave eh tucks that might move and neckbands that need stretching and end up with big puckers if you're not careful. My hands aren't very strong so it gives them a bit of help.

I baste pleats...that's about it

I rather like basting - it’s often quicker and simpler than pinning or clipping and helps with (for example) getting quilt bindings on perfectly straight.

I understand basting in a cooking context but not sewing!

@IDontMindMarmite - basting = tacking.

Ah now I understand that! Thank you

Yes, apologies. As I understand it, basting is the American term. I generally stick with the British rather than US terminology (so wadding rather than batting, say) as obviously that's what I was taught at school, but I got swept along by the basting tide.