A fascinating read, and surprisingly similar to life in rural Subsaharan Africa - I spent time in villages in Tanzania, in the highlands where it could be frosty. No running water or electricity, and no access to modern toilets either - one thing I noticed was how tricky it was if you were disabled. Using a long drop toilet at night when you're unwell really isn't fun.
Someone asked about the smoke. Sadly it really isn't good for you - where I lived, food was usually cooked on a wood fire in a room with no chimney, and most middle aged women had lung issues. I wasn't cooking for myself, so it didn't affect me, but I know all too many who it did.
Women used old rags when they had their period - I took a supply of modern sanpro . A good water filter meant that having clean water wasn't too difficult for me, but beyond the means of most.
Where I was we did bathe every day, and because it was cold, there was a specific room for doing so, with a sloping floor. The water had to be fetched and heated, really time consuming.
Interesting that OP didn't want to leave - I'm very grateful for many modern conveniences, starting with washing machines....