So, there are stunning buildings. Some of the mosques I visited were beautiful. The bazaars were really nice. So much crafted items, very cheap. I loved the mountains in the North. So many historic sites. Loved the food and tea. Loved going to the tea tents by the river. You sit on a raised area, enclosed, covered in carpets and cushions and they bring you food and tea and dates. Very good if you are there as a family and want privacy. You can sit at tables in the gardens, if you prefer.
You need to get used to sit and sleep on the floor, with cushions. And the asian toilets. It is ok if you are young!
You have to wear a scarf and long clothing, like abayas. There are very nice ones indeed. The material is rather thin, so the hot weather is not unsuffereable. All the scarves I took from UK were far too thick and horrible there.
But, you have to cover at all times when outdoors, even if bathing in the sea. If you do not know the language and writting, it is impossible to do anything there. You depend on your guide for everything!
Families are welcoming. With some, you take your abaya and scarf off in the house. Others is like being a nun and do not speak, please. I did not like that. I would not live there for all the gold in the world if I am not allowed to be my own person. With some visitors, either we or the men had to stay inside a room while they were there, depending on their sex. Others were much like UK inside the house and they were jokey and engaging. Same person will act differently, depending on how pious or radical the other is. It is not nice, I think they lose a sense of who they really are.
If they just were allowed freedom, I think they are ready and will be like Dubai in no time. Muslim country, but with a free modern spirit.