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How do we know which retailers have ethical practices? Related to the Bangladeshi factory tragedy

264 replies

Cristiane · 28/04/2013 07:15

The news from Banglaesh gets worse and worse - 352 people dead so far in the collapses factory where people made clothes for Matalan, Primark and ther names.

I don't want to buy from labels that don't use sweat shops and don't use suppliers that have coercive or dehumanising working conditions. Does anyone know if there is a list prepared of the most ethical retailers?

OP posts:
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DigWeedSow · 14/05/2013 13:01

Great to see changes happening, hopefully this will be the tipping point and conditions will begin to improve.
For those interested in ethics of using animals within the fashion industry the documentary Earthlings is one of the most powerful and moving films that I have ever seen.

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EthicalDresser · 14/05/2013 15:28

This thread continues to be brilliant. Sorry for posting and running the other day, real life got a bit busy.

I think a Mumsnet campaign would be fantastic. Would really tell the retailers, who really are still only held to account re their financial bottom line, that there are concerned consumers. Would need to have some very clear and precise 'asks' though. Otherwise will just get back 'well we inspect' and we've all now see how well that works out.

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ppeatfruit · 17/05/2013 09:51

I've just signed the War on Want petition to 'push' GAP and Asda who are holding out from signing with nearly ALL the giant firms to make sure the buildings are properly maintained and built. so there is positive action Grin

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Forgetfulmog · 17/05/2013 13:12

Apologies if this has already been posted (I did have a skim read, but couldn't see it on this thread), but just been on the fatface website & it says this:

"Since the company started in 1988, we have been working closely with our suppliers, and aim to ensure all factory workers are treated fairly. To this end, we issued a Code of Conduct, based on the Ethical Trading Initiative Base Code, and every factory must be able to demonstrate compliance to this when requested. This code covers areas such as child labour, discrimination, working hours, discipline practices, freedom of association and health and safety.

However, we want to do more than this. To make a real difference, we are embarking on major projects, in partnership with key suppliers and other organisations, to deliver real and sustainable improvements to the lives of these people. As this evolves, we will share this information with you on this website."

It all seems a bit airy fairy so have emailed them using the template (thanks frugal) & will let you know what they say!

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literarygeek · 17/05/2013 21:08

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literarygeek · 17/05/2013 21:10

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FrugalFashionista · 18/05/2013 12:51

Great link Literarygeek!

Sorry about not having been very active over the past days, have been travelling. Have gotten a few new replies during my absence, one from 7 For All Mankind and one from Matches. Both are kind of... well, many companies are so far 'above' their supply chain that these types of questions are just not their forte. Maybe we should ask these questions more often? Wink

I went to the Gucci shop at the airport. They didn't have the vegetable-tanned rainforest bag, and it took quite a while before the saleslady remembered that they actually had one in their collection. She said quite emphatically that she knows of the bag but they have never had it in that particular shop (and most likely never will either). Greenwashing? They are riding high on the positive press but the actual item is N/A.

I also had friendly discussion about sustainable fibers with the COS checkout girl (bought a silk-cotton scarf there). She explained that polyester has been very popular among vendors because it's so great for printing (bright colors, no fading), and prints are very fashionable right now. Her personal preferred fiber was lyocell (she found cotton problematic, rightly so). Anyway, I enjoyed that type of talk with the girl at the till and would have liked to continue (to talk about sourcing and work conditions) but a queue was forming. But I found pleasant that a regular SA in a chain store clearly had been trained in these issues and had some information and opinions!

Have you noticed that 'Made in China' is almost a luxury these days? When I have scanned the labels of things I own, among the higher-end items, the better made, more complex or detail-oriented are almost always made in China. Salaries there have risen so much that uncomplicated sewing tasks are being done elsewhere. 'To die for' also talks about Chinese suppliers doing the outsourcing - they are increasingly having the very dirty, labor-intensive phases done in Africa or dirt-poor Asian countries.

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FrugalFashionista · 18/05/2013 13:11

Have just sent feedback to People Tree, inspired by the 'Do more plain basics' plea started by YoniTime (I think) on the Frugal thread. Their current offerings are all about prints and very girly and romantic. I don't need another print tee or frilly dress but would buy half a dozen of plain white/cream/navy black tees and vests, and probably repeat purchase regularly, as these items just get so much wear.

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ppeatfruit · 18/05/2013 14:39

Right folks this is a first for me!! I read an extremely interesting article in the International Herald Tribune that tells it all nearly.
www.nytimes.com/2013/05/16/business/global/after-bangladesh-seeking-new-sources.html?n=Top%2fReference%2fTimes%20Topics%2fPeople%2fB%2fBradsher%2c%20Keith

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FrugalFashionista · 18/05/2013 15:48

Thanks, relinking your link to the excellent outsourcing article from IHT Fruit!

I'm stymied - is this what the clothing companies think we are asking for? Outsourcing yet to another country? Rebuilding infrastructure someplace else and leaving already trained people in Bangladesh high and dry and desperate for jobs?

Dear 7FAM and others, I would like to buy 'Made in Bangladesh' clothes from a company that is committed to its subcontractors and takes care of them. Yes, we've messed up, but couldn't we have the decency to help a bit in the clean-up too?

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ppeatfruit · 18/05/2013 16:19

Yes it effing upset me as well frugal esp. the bit about chopping down rain forest to build factories in Indonesia; doesn't the living world mean anything to these people? Sad Angry

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ppeatfruit · 18/05/2013 16:21

So we have Mr. Model to thank for beginning the race to the bottom where will it end? (I'll answer that) with no world that's where.

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FrugalFashionista · 18/05/2013 16:40

I'm increasingly disillusioned. Companies have cut cost by shifting production to countries where profits are being made largely because environmental regulation and labor regulation are lax and favor all possible forms of exploitation. This means that we are willing to let go both of domestic jobs and the practices we have through trial and error developed to avoid sweatshops and polluted soil, air and water.

That cheap t shirt or bargainous pair of shoes has a invisible prize tag. Sooner or later we will have to pay the outstanding balance Sad

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ppeatfruit · 18/05/2013 17:18

Yes as you can tell Iam too but I've said for many years that nothing is REALLY cheap (unless you grow veg. and flowers from seed in your own garden I suppose Grin) there aren't many people who seem to care either. I totally agree about the invisible price tag.

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ppeatfruit · 18/05/2013 17:22

Thank for linking properly BTW! frugal

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Allthingspretty · 19/05/2013 09:45

Lauren Laverne's fashion column addresses the issue m.guardian.co.uk/fashion/2013/may/19/lauren-laverne-shopping-conscience-rana-plaza

Shamr they don't give her more words for her column as she sems very constrained by the small word count

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FrugalFashionista · 20/05/2013 17:43

Thanks Allthingspretty!

NY Times keeps covering the Bangladeshi aftermath but today's story is really strange. Anyhow, it seems, direct customer feedback to the stores' websites has some real influence!

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FrugalFashionista · 20/05/2013 17:56

Another much more focused article from today's NY Times - EU and UN involvement might help too. If anyone knows how to get politicians involved, please let me know Grin

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Forgetfulmog · 21/05/2013 07:02

Just had a response back from the email I sent fatface:

"Many thanks for your email regarding our trading policies.

Our items are sourced from various parts of the world, Far east ( china), India, and Europe. Which is the same as most other retailers on the high street.

Since the company started in 1988, we have been working closely with our suppliers, and aim to ensure all factory workers are treated fairly. To this end, we issued a Code of Conduct, based on the Ethical Trading Initiative Base Code, and every factory must be able to demonstrate compliance to this when requested. This code covers areas such as child labour, discrimination, working hours, discipline practices, freedom of association and health and safety.

We can see what workers earn through Sedex. We want to make sure workers get a living wage, not just minimum wage. Sadly, I can't honestly tell you precisely what the average worker gets paid at present I’m afraid.

With all of the above, though it's clearly not prefect, with SEDEX and ETI, we can make some real improvements to the lives of the people who
make our products. You can find loads of information at www.fatface.com/page/foundation.

If you need anything else, just let me know, and I'll do my best to help. I hope this has gone some way to reassuring you!

Kind Regards"

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ppeatfruit · 21/05/2013 09:03

I've just signed another petition by Avaaz to push GAP into signing with the other big companies. They have a lot of clout.

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MrsRadicchio · 21/05/2013 09:19

I have emailed a few places too - Sam Edelman, Clarks, Fit Flop and Dr Martens (bit of a mixed bunch). Waiting on replies but will post if I get any. DM and Clarks did have some info on their website, the problem I find is it is hard to decipher how meaningful it really is.

Interesting response by FatFace - it all seems a bit wishy washy. Hopefully emails like we are sending will prompt more scrutiny.

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MrsRadicchio · 21/05/2013 09:21

Just read the NY times article Frugal linked to.

This worries me:
"Even companies with the best intentions can?t guarantee the well-being of workers in a slippery, writhing global supply chain, with layers of temporary subcontractors."

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Forgetfulmog · 21/05/2013 09:29

Mrsrad, yes it is a little, but I was quite impressed by the tone tbh. It really did seem like the person who replied (I removed her name for security) was trying her best to answer. I haven't responded to her yet but will do.

I don't think we're going to get any straightforward answers but at least the info is getting out there.

On a separate note, I am just amazed at how few people have heard about the Rana Plaza collapse - it was on the bbc website for weeks, but many people I've spoken to haven't heard about it, nor do they care when I tell them Confused

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MrsRadicchio · 21/05/2013 09:36

Forgetful - yes, I agree it seems like a considered response, she was trying to answer your question and bering honest with it. Just worrying that there is such a long supply chain that the companies just don't know what is going on and can choose to turn a blind eye to it.

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Forgetfulmog · 21/05/2013 09:44

Out of sight out of mind though isn't it? There's just no responsibility anymore anywhere, which is just a shame

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