Knitters, help! How do you interpret this pattern instruction?

(28 Posts)
TeaPleaseLouise Tue 22-Nov-16 21:48:02

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TeaPleaseLouise Tue 22-Nov-16 21:48:38

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Cherylene Tue 22-Nov-16 21:50:47

3,9,15 etc smile

Akire Tue 22-Nov-16 21:51:41

I think you are right it's 6th row after the first instruction. It's one stitch every 6rows so if you do it on 3 or 6 dare say not make huge difference at the end.

When I first started knitting I was agast they don't offer beginners ones where write out each row save you having to write and scribble own notes to keep track

SpeckledyBanana Tue 22-Nov-16 21:51:44

I think you are right, not your DM.

YesILikeItToo Tue 22-Nov-16 21:56:39

The easiest way to express this is: you're right.

TeaPleaseLouise Tue 22-Nov-16 21:58:08

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peaceloveandbiscuits Tue 22-Nov-16 22:03:52

Yes, you're correct. Otherwise it would say inc on every 3rd and 6th rows, but it doesn't. So there. Why don't you both knit it your own ways and see whose comes out best? grin

TeaPleaseLouise Tue 22-Nov-16 22:09:38

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peaceloveandbiscuits Tue 22-Nov-16 22:21:41

Good idea, but watch your tension on the bit you're doing as the machine will be very tight and neat compared to hand knitting.

TeaPleaseLouise Tue 22-Nov-16 22:43:20

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peaceloveandbiscuits Tue 22-Nov-16 22:49:52

More fun by hand, especially if you've only got the interesting bit to do smile

JoffreyBaratheon Wed 23-Nov-16 14:42:31

OP I think you're right. 3rd row, then every 6th row after that. Ooh, vintage!

TeaPleaseLouise Wed 23-Nov-16 20:13:57

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peaceloveandbiscuits Wed 23-Nov-16 20:31:33

That is stylin'!

TeaPleaseLouise Wed 23-Nov-16 23:35:30

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JoffreyBaratheon Thu 24-Nov-16 09:10:23

I'm fairly sure there is a 1950s' James Norbury pattern 'for teenage boys' with bikes on it - for future reference! (Which you'd have to size up but not a lot). It's possibly in The Penguin Book of Knitting, but I'm not entirely certain as I have several of his books and off the top of my head, forget which one it's in. Like his other Fair Isle-ish designs, it is very well executed and worth a look. I've never had a problem with his patters - the ones I've made have been true to size.

Vintage patterns can have issues because they weren't always test knitted, or the magazine/publishers would mess around with a pattern (converting things the designer wrote for in the round, to flat, for example) which could mess up the figures.

peaceloveandbiscuits Thu 24-Nov-16 09:45:24

2yo DS has a beautiful 4ply cardigan from a 1960s pattern. When he put it on for the first time he looked like he'd walked straight out of Call The Midwife grin

TeaPleaseLouise Thu 24-Nov-16 11:57:27

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Cherylene Thu 24-Nov-16 16:31:45

It is fun doing old patterns.

I am doing an 80s pattern of a traditional pattern. It is shorter and wider, but thankfully not too 'batwing' round the armholes. So I am doing it one pattern longer, and a size smaller.

I have still to work out how to sort out the sleeves though. They are a bit 'blouson' and puffy near the cuffs, so I am going to have to work out where to decrease to get a more up to date shape (they are worked from top to bottom grin )

It is funny how shaping varies so much over the decades, even on things that are not particularly 'fashion' items.

redshoeblueshoe Thu 24-Nov-16 17:47:03

I've got some of my DM's old patterns, I might just go and have a look. The jumper is brilliant

JoffreyBaratheon Fri 25-Nov-16 10:04:18

TeaPleaeLouise I went to check today, and the pattern I'm on about is "Smart Boy. Teen-Age Boy's Gay Sweater" p 56 ff. (How did I forget a name like that?) in "Knit With Norbury", (1952). Norbury was the first TV knitter and regularly had patterns syndicated in places like 'The Daily Mirror'.

Although the body is a bit fussy, the actual bike chart is rather nice. Size-wise, Norbury is generally accurate. He's using 2.75mm needles and a 3 ply yarn but the chart would be usable, if you did your own calculations, for 4 ply or DK and the relevant sized needles..? I know you've got your's underway but putting this here in case anyone wants to track down the pattern I was on about, above!

JoffreyBaratheon Fri 25-Nov-16 10:04:52

Doh! Louise - apologies for mis-spelling you!

JoffreyBaratheon Fri 25-Nov-16 10:12:08

Cherylene, I'd tend to start the arm decs as soon as I start knitting down the sleeve, every 3rd or 4th round, til you are to the stitch count you want.

One really pretty and more subtle way of arm decs in that kind of thing, is to pick a 'central' panel of underarm stitches, and dec every other round, either side til you have decreased those stitches away (mirrored decs look nice); then continue down the arm with decs every 3rd round, or so.

Check how many stitches and rounds per 10cm, and do the maths quickly, ahead of time, to see when you will have decreased away all the sts you need to decrease away, then adjust how often you decrease accordingly, so that by the time you're several inches shy of where you want to start the cuffs, you have all the excess decreased away. If that makes sense.

Traditional knitting dealt with this by creating an underarm gusset - you can mae a kind of half gusset, as described above, where, near the top of the arm, you decrease away furiously, then ease off once that central no of stitches (around 13 for DK, around 21 for 5 ply guernsey) are gone.

peaceloveandbiscuits Fri 25-Nov-16 14:04:45

Feel I've found my people on this thread! Will attach some pics of some of my more splendid vintage patterns later grin

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