Dressmaking advice please - is it easy to size up a pattern?

[Niecie]

I am thinking about trying my hand at dressmaking, having not done it for years and liked the look of the pattern in this month's Sew magazine. Only problem is it only goes up to a size 16 and I am an 18. Can I just add a half an inch to the pattern when I cut it out? Will it still produce something that looks vaguely like the picture on the packet or will the proportions be all wrong?

Any advice, gratefully received. Thanks

[sloggies]

In the absence of anyone else, I would think that would be ok. An inch would not make an enormouse diff to the proportions IMHO but would mean you could get into it. I have the same problem!

[Niecie]

Thanks for you reply!

I was hoping it will be OK but perhaps I will have a go with some cheapish fabric and see what happens. I like the top pattern in the magazine because it has no buttons or zips to confuse things so I don't have to worry about zip lengths or placing the buttonholes. And at least if it all goes pear shaped I won't have wasted too much money!!

Actually, I have been quite surprised about how many patterns don't go over a size 16. It doesn't seem to reflect what happens in the shops where most ranges go to at least an 18. You would think that quite a few people turn to dressmaking because they can't get the size they want in the shops yet the patterns aren't made for them. Strange!

[sloggies]

If you have got the time to invest, maybe do it with an old sheet or something....maybe there is a gap in the market for some enterprising woman!

[LatteLady]

Yes... and no, it really does depend on the style of the pattern and cutting an extra inch all round will not work.

OK, when you open out the pattern there will be a horizontal line for increasing length, so that is easy, all you would need to do is cut along the line and pin a piece of paper underneath to both pattern pieces to give you the extra inches. If you have something that is cut on the fold then you could add an inch to the piece that is pinned to the fold but remember to do this to your facings too.

If you garment has sleeves, I would turn an existing garment inside out and check the armhole against your pattern piece... if it is bigger you will have to lengthen both the armhole and the shoulder... to say nothing of the sleeve.

If you let us know exactly what the pattern is, that would be really helpful and I could send you more specific advice.

[Niecie]

Thanks Sloggies - Good idea about the old sheets - I have plenty of them

Lattelady - Thanks for the advice - that is really helpful.

The pattern is in this month's Sew magazine on the front cover. It is a wrap dress but it can also be a top (basically it is just a very short version of the dress). Sleeves are slightly flared, and 3/4 length so hopefully not so fitted that I will have a problem with those. I shall have to examine it all more carefully. I wasn't planning on starting until the children are back at school so I haven't unpacked it yet and examined the pattern too closely. I was just trying to work out if I should even try!

This could be quite a challenge!!

[sloggies]

Do it woman! Then come back and tell.

[Niecie]

Alright I will!! (It might be some time though)!

[confuddledDOTcom]

Scaling isn't easy. I trained in pattern cutting (as well as all the other stages) and it's not simply a case of adding a border in. I suggest, as others have said, you make a toile (a cheap cotton version) then cut it up to let it out where needed.

It sounds hard but I've just scaled up a dress and added in maternity darts (which was a totally new experience for me!) expecting it to be quite complicated and was surprised how simple it really was.

[Niecie]

Thanks confuddled. I might try that although I am a bit scared now!!

Perhpas what I should do is try a simple skirt first - it might be easier. Elasticated waist, 2 seams and a hem!!! Can't go wrong can it?

[confuddledDOTcom]

It's honestly not that hard. Make it in cotton, try it on and draw or cut it where it doesn't fit. Take it off and pin bits in to give the extra you need and try it on again. Might help to have someone with you. Move the added bits if you need to. As soon as you have it right take it apart and use as a pattern piece.

[rockinhippy]

Okay, a sleeved wrap dress is a difficult one to grade if you don't understand grading fully & neither 1/2 inch around & cutting through the middle, is going to be entirely accurate & will affect the fit of the dress - I've known plenty of experienced pattern cutters & even a fashion university lecturer who couldn't even begin to do it

its also a difficult 1 to explain without visuals, so I think the best I can do is list the grading increments & WHERE the extra needs to be added & hope that as you can sew, maybe you can work it out from there.

Okay .......

Bust - total increase 2"
(split between number of panels & allow for wrap)

Waist - 2" (as above)

Hip - 2" (as above)

Across back - 1/2" (midway between shoulder/armhole)

Across front - 1/2" (as above)
(note - as its a wrap you will need to adjust neck shape at wrap edge, to compensate or notches wont match)

across sleeve head - 1/2"
(note that X back + X Front & 2 Sleeve heads = 2" same as other round body increments)

Shoulder increase - 1/8"

Armhole front - 3/8"

Armhole back - 3/8" (3/4" total armhole)
(note - your sleeve head also must grow by 3/4" - but this should be spread through total armhole shape - 1/8" (x2) at each side of under arm & 1/2 across upper arm)

through sleeve width - 1/2"

Sleeve length - 1/4"

Neck width & depth should also change, but as its only 1 size you could probably get away with not doing that

You can do this easiest by getting some paper - pattern, wallpaper, newspaper prit-stick or cellotape into larger sheets

• fold paper - pin your folded pattern at centre front along fold - draw around your folded pattern - unpin & move over 1/2" from folded edge & pin again - draw around it again in a different colour -
  

using increments above as a guide to where the new line needs to be, plot the points at across front/back, a/hole & shoulder & draw in new line in the same colour as outer hip/bust etc line

repeat with sleeve & cut out on fold, but cut out back a/hole shape only - open out - & now trim away front a/hole


Hope thats something you can follow :)

grading the sleeve & armhole area correctly is very important, as it will keep the sleeve fitting comfortably, not doing it will distort it & it will pull & feel/look odd

[rockinhippy]

PS: if its to be in jersey, you can get away with more than you can a woven fabric

[rockinhippy]

I forgot the length

Length - 1/4
(note - this is cut through armhole at X back/front to the drop armhole length & nape - waist length )

[Niecie]

Wow, thanks for that rockinhippy. That was really detailed.

I am torn between wanting to run a mile and go back to knitting and being tempted by the fact it is difficult and I like a challenge!

I am tempted by some Amy Butler fabric but I think I may steer clear of that (assuming I can make the toile first) because the pattern is too regular and I will have enough to worry about without matching patterns. I will go and look at the jersey if it might make life easier.

Just have to get the DC back to school so I can get on with it!!

[rockinhippy]

Go for the challenge :)

• though if you're worried, maybe stick to a jersey first, that way if you don't get the armhole area quite right (which is really the only tricky bit), it won't be too big a problem & you won't have wasted the cloth = with woven if its not right it can make it uncomfortable to wear

[Niecie]

Oh no! I didn't realise you had to use jersey. I know it says that the pattern is ideal for jersey but it is going to be difficult enough to make in cotton, without jersey stretching all over the place whilst I am trying to sew it! Most of the pics in the magazine didn't look like jersey and I am a bit put off tbh.

It might be easier just to lose weight.

[HippyHippopotamus]

no, doesn't sound like it will work in a non-stretch fabric but, in case you find a jersey to use the way i make a pattern bigger is like this..
it does need for your pattern to have at least three sizes on it though..

lay out the pattern pieces and have a look at the three different sizes, eg 12,14,16. you'll see in some places they cross, so sometimes the biggest size is the outer line and sometimes its the inner line. start on a bit of the pattern where the biggest size is the outer line.
what you need to do is draw another line on the outside of the 16 line that is the same distance away from it as the 16 line is from the 14 line. if the 16 line gets closer to the 14 then your line should do the same ie move closer to the 16 line

i wouldn't blame you if your answer to the above was 'eh?' but i've tried!