Dog snapping at other dogs

[Casserole]

Could really use some advice please - our 2.5 year old collie / jack russell cross has recently been involved in quite a few "altercations" with other dogs when out and about.

She doesn't actually bite them, but she will snarl, bark, snap, growl and wrestle with them. It tends to be with bigger dogs; I suspect she feels threatened by them, but usually it is her approaching them in the first place.

Smaller dogs she either tries to herd or sometimes drags them around by their collar.

We tend to walk her off lead in local woods as she does need a lot of running time; but I'm getting to the point where I don't know quite how to manage that.

I have a 2.5 year old child (she's lovely with him) and a baby due in a month, so would really like to nip this in the bud. She's only been doing it for 6 weeks or so. She has always been boisterous and loves a good romp around with another dog but this snarling etc is something new.

When we first got her, at 7 months old, we did a basic obedience course. She comes to her name, sits, stays, etc. We've reserved on to another course at our local training society but it doesn't start for a month and of course (a) baby will be coming soon then and (b) I don't know what to do in the meantime!

Any strategies anyone could suggest we could work on in the meantime would be really really appreciated. Thanks.

[Ephiny]

I would try to book some 1-1 sessions with a good trainer/behaviourist to start with - often better than group classes if there's a specific problem to address (assuming the course you mention is a group thing). Sounds like she might cause chaos in a group session right now, though it might be a good thing later on for ongoing socialisation.

I'm no expert on these things (and have a big old lazy dog myself!), but would wonder if she's getting enough exercise and mental stimulation - with that mix of breeds I would guess she's very bright and energetic and could easily get frustrated if she doesn't have enough to do. Maybe something like agility would be good?

[LetThereBeCupcakes]

Lots of questions I'm afraid! What are you feeding her and how long has she been on it? How do the other dogs react when she does this? Could it just be very enthusiastic playing? Is she lunging at dogs? Is she on or off lead when she does it? Lots of things can cause this sort of behaviour, quite often it's fear related.
What kind of training have you done - is it clicker / reward based?
Problems can be really complicated to deal with so, as Epiphany has said, a professional is always a good bet. I've just finished a VERY basic canine behaviour course but I've only scratched the surface. Happy to share what I can though!

[minimu1]

I don't thin this is a nip in the bud type behaviour I am afraid.

I expect there have been signs before but they have been less obvious and hence she has now had to up her game to get the desired effect.

This will not go away on its own and if not managed correctly can get a lot worse.

If the behaviour has just started I would pop her down to the vets to make sure there is not underlying health issue or pain that may mae her react like this.

I would also check the food she is having - what are you giving her however if that has not changed that will not be the cause but may help her feel better if on a good food.

I would use a counter conditioning/desensitising approach.

You say with smaller dogs she herds them and drags them around so this too is inappropriate behaviour and she only needs to meet a feisty dog that does not tolerate that behaviour and you will have a massive dog fight on your hands.

The first thing to do is to not let her approach ANY dog off lead.

Have you got a good recall?
Can you walk her in quieter locations?

Have her on lead for this. Can you watch her really carefully at what point does she start to react to the dogs? By react she may turn her head, she may yawn, she may stand very very still, she may look away, she may raise her tail, lie down on the floor or just stare at the other dog.

This point is too close so increase the distance between you and the other dog (this is hard to do with just any old dog walker so you may need to get a friend with a dog to help you).

Then when she is more relaxed click and treat, do this over and over again but you must do it before any minor reaction - if she is lunging and barking then that is way to close. I would also be saying look dog and encourage her to look at the dog, (if you were told don't look or someone stand in front of you you would panic and expect the worst but if you could see the dog you would be calmer and feel in control)

You need to get to a stage that she can "look dog" without reacting or her training is too now see a dog and turn to you for a treat - you then have her near you to control the walking past dogs.

From now on I would never let her meet other dogs unless she knows them well and is relaxed. Dogs do not need to socialise with other dogs when they are adults most dogs should prefer the company of their owners so she is not going to miss out.

If she is on lead and does not react at all and you can walk past all dogs easily then that is your answer call her to you, reward her and walk past all dogs on lead.

This is a very tricky problem and most people need help with it as it needs to be carefully managed. Contact APDT and see if there is a trainer near you.

Do not listen to anyone who says you have to be cross with your dog, or use a rattle bottle, or says you have to dominant your dog - you will then have a dog that reacts to dogs and humans!

I guess you have a lot on your hands right now with babies and reactive dogs but it will need some time - I hope you can get some on the ground help.

You have got a mix of dog from two very busy and intelligent breeds. She will require exercise but she will need a lot of brain work and this will need to achieved and is more important than traditional exercise.

So clicker training would be great. Get her to learn the names of household objects - she can help fetch things when the new baby comes, get her to tug and then she can help you empty the washing machine and tumble drier. The busier she is in the house and the more her mind is full of other things she will relax more.

[minimu1]

Ruddy iphone

Think

I guess you do not have a lot of time on your hands

[Casserole]

Hello :)

Just to say thank you very much for posting such long and considered replies, I'm really grateful. I am out much of today but will sit down over the weekend and work through them and compile an action plan.

Couple of quick answers:

1. She eats Bakers Complete and Pedigree Chum, and has done since we got her. It was what they fed her at her previous home (we took as her they couldn't / wouldn't exercise her)
   

1. In the woods she's off lead. We are generally in the woods for about an hour; that's her main walk of the day and then she gets some shorter ones, plus some ball chasing, playing with me, running round the garden etc. I am quite happy to walk her on lead in the woods but I don't know how she'd fulfil her running needs - she outruns everything, bless her heart, and at 8 months pregnant I'm not the fastest walker! Any ideas?
   

1. I think it IS enthusiastic playing. What I think is happening is that she bounds up to another dog to play but gets a bit too boisterous so they get grumpy with her and then because they are bigger she feels threatened and snaps. She often lays down before other dogs approach, then leaps up and prances around them when they are near her. She doesn't ever go in initially with nasty behaviour. It just seems like she gets in over her head and then annoys them and responds badly herself, if that makes any sort of sense?
   

She'd love agility. I've always thought she would be too hyper for it, she's really easily overstimulated if you know what I mean - goes from 0-90 in seconds. Perhaps if I can work on her basic skills a bit more in the meantime then I could investigate that in a few months when have new baby sorted...

Have taken on board and googled some local behaviourists, too.

[LetThereBeCupcakes]

I would definately change her food. Bakers and Pedigree chum are pretty much junk-food. I've just finished working with a lady who also had a collie, presenting with all kinds of problems, including a few of the ones you have mentioned. I told her we could work on each problem individually, but she should start by changing the food. She went with burns, and we ended up not needing to do much else. it took 6-8 weeks for the food change to kick in and everything else has improved - dog is much calmer, better coat, not needing to go to the loo 8 times a day.

Look for a food that's not to high in protein (about 20% max is general concensus) and is made up of ACTUAL food - not "derivatives". They cost more, but you'll need to feed less, and in the long term you'll avoid all sorts of vet costs associated with poor diet.

Minimu1 - I'm a bit surprised by "dogs do not need the company of other dogs when they are adults". I always felt the socialising was important for all ages. I'd be interested to hear more on the thinking behind this. Obviously in the case of this dog it's safety first, but in most cases I can't think of anything they'd enjoy more than a good romp with a canine pal!

[LetThereBeCupcakes]

"not too high in protein", obviously. tut.

[minimu1]

I agree definitely change her food asap.

LettherebeCupcakes Socialising is vital to all dogs but only so that they know how to behave and how to react. A dog that never sees another dog does not NEED to see dogs to have a happy and fulfilled life. However obviously in the real world they do meet dogs and need not to be worried by it and how to understand doggy language.

My dogs do not play with dogs that I do not know and if we are out walking and meet dogs they come straight back to me and wait for my command as to whether to walk to heel past the dogs or ignore them or go and play.

Well done on finishing your dog course what one did you do?

[LetThereBeCupcakes]

It's the first Think Dog Certificate. The course is run by Sarah Whitehead, but was originally devised by John Fisher (founder of the APDT). Fascinating stuff. The section on nutrition has got me banging on about canine diet to anybody who'll listen! I'd thoroughly recommend it.

[minimu1]

Ah I know the course well. Really glad you enjoyed it. Are you going to move onto the practical course and do the other levels.

If interested there is a fantastic foundation degree course at Bishop Burton College in Yorkshire. Luckily it is a distance learning course but does have compulsory block weeks you have to attend.

[LetThereBeCupcakes]

I am hoping to carry on and do the other courses. Need to save up some money though! I shall look into that foundation degree. OH and I often talk about going to Yorkshire on holiday so we might be able to work something in.

[pinkbraces]

Minimu please can you tell me how to achieve this level of obedience:

"My dogs do not play with dogs that I do not know and if we are out walking and meet dogs they come straight back to me and wait for my command as to whether to walk to heel past the dogs or ignore them or go and play."

Please

[minimu1]

It is dead dead simple. Get the clicker out (of course)initially have the dog on a lead. When you see a dog approaching click and treat loads. For one of my dogs he gets a click and then a game of tuggy which is much more rewarding for him.

I do this constantly and in a very short time they come running back to me before I have even seen another dog.

I do work hard at heel work so they then stay at heel as we walk past.

However I do make sure that I am the best thing in my dogs life, so any games, fun, pleasure always comes from me so they do not need to go and see other dogs. I am not the dogwalker on the mobile phone when out with dogs!!!!

It is simple to do and just needs consistent clicking when you see a dog - sometimes if I know the dog they are released to go and play sometimes they are not - they like to be kept guessing

[Eleison]

Very interested in the 'look dog' strategy. I have a PRT who is unreliable with other dogs. Luckily his general obedience is quite good, and he doesn't really want to actively approach other dogs (it's more that, if they come close to him he will feel asserive and/or nervous and will snap and tussle with them) so I can recall him and put him on lead when other dogs are around.

But on lead his aggression level is quite high (higher than when off lead). I need to teach him to walk past another dog without leaping and barking. I keep the lead relaxed, I distract with a toy. Sometimes this will work (he is very toy motivated), but other times it won't.

Unfortunately, it usually involves having to pass the other dog quite closely. So do I need to find ways of approaching dogs at a greater distance, and specifically to reward calm attention to the other dog? I had focussed on rewarding him for showing attention to me or his toy.

I need to get a split-second reward in for the momeent he looks at the other dog without getting aroused? And use a 'look dog' command just as he looks at it?

I wonder how best to do this without the active cooperation of loads of other dog walkers? Would it be counterprodctive to sometimes turn away from the oncoming dog the moment after he gets his 'look dog' reward for calm attention? (i.e. to avoid a closer encounter which he would certainly fail)

[Eleison]

sorry for the x-post

[pinkbraces]

Thank you, my dog is pretty obedient but I would feel so much more confident if I could increase the obedience levels.