Making a jacket sewing pattern. How can I de-puff the top of the sleeve??

[Tansie]

Am having all sorts of problems! I am making my own jacket pattern for a fitted jacket for a wedding. All has gone well, but can I get the shoulder part of the sleeve right?

Currently, what I have 'works' but it's Princess Diana style puff! Very 1980s. I want to desize it. so it sits flatter to the outside of my upper arm and shoulder but I don't know how to!

I measured the circle of the sleeve hole on the 'body' part; I know the curve of my sleeve pattern must fit in that plus must be a bit bigger to allow for some gathering (or in my case, tucks) at the top of the sleeve shoulder bit, I've learned that you have to set the sleeve in so the length of the arm part faces slightly to the front, not straight down (or you can't move your arms!) but what I don't 'get' is why the top of the sleeve, to fit into the body's sleeve hole has to be so big and with so many tucks!

For the record, unfortunately I don't have another jacket pattern to copy from, not that the sleeve hole would be the same size as that on my DIY pattern, anyway!

Is there a magic formula about how much bigger the curve on the sleeve must be compared with the body sleeve hole to allow for fit (but not puff!)?

Any thoughts welcome!

[Oldraver]

What does the picture on the pattern look like ? does it have visible gathers or tucks ?

A properly fitted sleeve needs to be 'eased' in...the trick is getting it in without it looking gathered. You will nee to run one or two rows of a long stitch in side the seam allowance of the sleeve usually between two notched marks on the pattern (sorry if you know this already)

It is a tricky procedure to get right. You could put a row of narrow tape (forgotten ite name) along the easement on the sleeve instead of the long stitch. Make this the same length as between the notches on the sleeve body IYSWIM.

If it is actually gathered then you will need to alter the pattern

[Tansie]

Oldraver -thanks. My problem is that I appear to have too much fabric to gather into the 'circle' of the body sleeve hole, iyswim. I want less sleeve. I know it'll need some ease but at the moment it looks like something out of Little Women!

I am wondering if there's a minimum increase 'factor' one uses for a normal sleeve, ie, if the length of the seam 'between the notches' on the body needs to be 2 or 3c ms shorter than the seam length of the corresponding sleeve? (re 'notches': you know, the front single and back double notch that you gather the sleeve part in between). I'm wondering if my sleeve seam, the bit to be gathered (or tucked in this instance) is miles too big for the hole in the body?

[Lambstales]

I know exactly what you mean, as I have just used a 1980s pattern. The 'puff' on the sleeve was awful.

I ended up by taking 1 1/2" off the sleeve head using a side plate to help the line . No cutting was done though! Until it was sewn.

I think more ease is needed at the back for movement. Happy to be corrected.

[LatteLady]

Do you have a jacket sleeve that works on another jacket or dress? If yes, then use that... If it is still too big, then make small darts into the paper pattern until it fits to both the back and the front.

[Tansie]

Thanks, all. I am at the sleeve fitting stage right now, so hope to 'have a go' this evening. I will let you know how I get on.

I plan on basting the sleeve in place at the 'correct' place, then seeing how it looks and feels, then, if necessary, taking more sleeve 'in' (into the sleeve hole on the body) and see what I can get away with.

[Oldraver]

How did you get on ?

I can imagine if its an old pattern there is more fabric to gather in.

Only thing you can do is measure between the notches, see how big the difference is and reduce it

[Tansie]

I confess I took the soddit option and made it us 'as is' but taking in a good inch along the upper sleeve seam, where it joins the body's shoulder! It seems to have worked!

[Lambstales]

Good for you! A good inch is a bit like my version eek.

I am glad that it seems okay :)