chew recommendations?(17 Posts)
ddog is a very strong chewer - thankfully doesn't chew our stuff, just his, but I'm struggling to find chews which will last more than a few seconds
He's not interested in rawhide chews - just buries them in the garden. Antlers get chewed when they're new but he loses interest in them pretty quickly. He had a bull bar but I took that off him as it started shredding (and stank to high heaven). He likes the smart bones but they are gone in a nano-second. I tried him on a ham bone a couple of weeks ago and oh my, the effects weren't pleasant <boak> (2 days of diarrhoea followed by 2 days of straining to pass large chunks of bone ...). He likes pigs ears but they're very fatty so they're only really an occasional treat (plus they are so very identifiable they make me feel a bit queasy ...)
what keeps your dogs happy?
Mine is also a strong chewer he likes Nylabones ,we have a variety of shapes ,colours ,flavours and he also has a new thing from Pets at home - it's an orange rubbery bone that you can squish stuff in the ends of it . We put a gravy bone and a small piece of ham in it when we go out and he loves it whereas he's never shown any interest in kongs once he's got the stuff out .
Have you tried adding a bit of flavour to rawhides by pushing a bit of meat or dried tripe or gravy or something into a fold/gap on the rawhide? My dog isn't interested in rawhides unless they're a bit flavoured, but once they're spiced up in this way, she'll chew them for ages.
Also, as a real treat, bulls' pizzles are brilliant (could be the same as 'bull bar', though? They certainly smell pretty rank).
I have 5 various shapes of Kong toy and I put lamb lung in them which takes my dogs a while to get out. They also have turkey necks, lambs heads, lambs necks, beef windpipe, raw knuckle bones. They aren't ever lasting but satisfy the need to chew and are much better for them than rawhide bones.
I normally get Natural Instinct ones from the garden centre or my vet stocks them too. Nature's Menu also have similar products.
My dog loved the black Kong with a bit of Tesco Value meat paste inside it.
Rawhides and cooked bones are dangerous, please don't give them to your dog, especially if a strong chewer.
Our boy loses interest in the antlers when he's got all the brown coating off but then goes back to them a few months later, he has a toy box and we just chuck them in there and he can go back to them anytime. He also loves those filled bones, they don't shatter and once he's eaten the filling he gnaws on the bone for months. He has several of each and is quite picky over which one he wants each time, it's funny watching him empty the box just to find the specific bone/chew/toy he wants.
He decimates anything that isn't uber tough, he shreds tough toys in less than 30 mins, there are very few toys that he's had that have survived, Large Kongs and a couple of those massive hard rubber toys are the only ones that have lasted. We buy him a new tough toy (the stuffed toy ones) as he likes to nibble on them and pull the stuffing out.
These Chuckitt Ultra balls aren't supposed to be chew toys but my dogs will chomp away and play with them for hours. They seem to be indestructible and would last forever if they didn't get lost, or bounce into impenetrable bramble thickets.
Every other chew toy gets destroyed in minutes, even stag bars get crunched up and eaten in a day or so.
Antlers are very good, especially if you buy a really big one. We get ours from Venison for Pets but lots of places sell them. Our dogs tend to go off them after a while but if I dip the antler in hot water it starts smelling interesting again and they will happily chew for hours.
Rawhides and cooked bones are dangerous, please don't give them to your dog, especially if a strong chewer.
I agree, no rawhides (or any sort of swallowable chew) unless you're there with the dog - and I never get rawhides with knotted ends as they're a real choking hazard.
Also - cooked bones - no way. (And I'd say the same about those 'safe' dried bones which also splinter really easily.)
Genuine question, though: is there any reason to worry about rawhides, apart from when they are shaped so that they pose a possible choking hazard?
The orange bone from Pets at Home lasted 3 minutes in this house before it had to be confiscated because it was being eaten.
This showed up on my FB this week (sorry its long!!):
THE MOST DANGEROUS PET CHEW EVER: RAWHIDE!
How can one of the most popular chew sticks on the planet be so dangerous for your pets, you ask? I mean, most dogs chew on rawhide for hours on end, and not only does it keep them busy, but they seem to last forever.
Well if you understood what it took to make this toxic “raw” leather stick, you would quickly understand what the problem is.
Aside from the horror stories circulating all over social media these days, of pets needing emergency surgery after consuming rawhide, the majority of pet parents today, especially the newbies, believe that this chew is some sort of dried up meat stick. Let me debunk that myth right away!
A rawhide stick is not the by-product of the beef industry nor is it made of dehydrated meat. Rather, rawhide is the by-product of the “Leather Industry”, so theoretically it is a leather chew. Sounds awesome, right?
“Producing rawhide begins with the splitting of an animal hide, usually from cattle. The top grain is generally tanned and made into leather products, while the inner portion, in its “raw” state, goes to the dogs.” TheBark.com
So, how does this leather, which is conveniently rolled up into pretty shapes, actually get made into those rawhide chews?
Follow along my friends and I will enlighten you on how this hide travels through a leathery process where it transforms from hide to a not-so beautiful, colorful, chew stick. Here is a paraphrased tutorial that was explained by the whole dog journal several years back:
STEP 1: Normally, cattle hides are shipped from slaughterhouses to tanneries for processing. These hides are then treated with a chemical bath to help “preserve” the product during transport to help prevent spoilage.
(No one wants to purchase a black, spoiled rawhide stick!)
Once at the tannery: the hides are soaked and treated with either an ash-lye solution or a highly toxic recipe of sodium sulphide liming. This process will help strip the hair and fat that maybe attached to the hides themselves.
(No, no one wants to see a hairy hide…)
Next on this glorious journey, these hides are then treated with chemicals that help “puff” the hide, making it easier to split into layers.
The outer layer of the hide is used for goods like car seats, clothing, shoes, purses, etc. But, it’s the inner layer that is needed to make the rawhide. (Oh and other things like gelatin, cosmetics, and glue as well!)
STEP 2: Now that we have the inner layer of the hide, it’s time to go to the post-tannery stage! Hides are washed and whitened using a solution of hydrogen peroxide and/or bleach; this will also help remove the smell of the rotten or putrid leather. Bonus!
(Research also shows that other chemicals maybe used here to help the whitening process if the bleach isn’t strong enough.)
STEP 3: Now it’s time to make these whitened sheets of this “leathery by-product” look delicious! So, here is where the artistic painting process comes in.
“Basted, smoked, and decoratively tinted products might be any color (or odor) underneath the coating of (often artificial) dyes and flavors. They can even be painted with a coating of titanium oxide to make them appear white and pretty on the pet store shelves.” - whole-dog-journal.com
“…the Material Safety Data Sheet reveals a toxic confection containing the carcinogen FD&C Red 40, along with preservatives like sodium benzoate. But tracking the effects of chemical exposure is nearly impossible when it’s a matter of slow, low-dose poisoning.”– thebark.com
Ok, now that these hides have been painted, it’s time for the final process.
STEP 4: Getting it to last forever!
Because the FDA does not consider these chews to be food, really it’s a free for all when it comes to the manufacturers of these leather strips, and the products they may want to add to these chews, to get them to last forever. Any sort of glue can be added here to get these bad boys to never come apart.
When tested: Lead, arsenic, mercury, chromium salts, formaldehyde, and other toxic chemicals have been detected in raw hides. So it’s safe to say that any sort of glues can be used as well!
Finally, it’s time to package and attach all the glorious marketing labels to the product.
Check out the fine print warning that’s attached with some of these rawhides:
“Choking or blockages. If your dog swallows large pieces of rawhide, the rawhide can get stuck in the esophagus or other parts of the digestive tract. Sometimes, abdominal surgery is needed to remove them from the stomach or intestines. If it isn’t resolved, a blockage can lead to death.“
(Oh, how lovely…)
And there it is! It’s now ready to be shipped to store shelves where it can be purchased for our loving animal companions.
How do proactive veterinarians feel about these chews?
Here is world-renowned veterinarian Doctor Karen Becker's take on the matter:
“The name ‘rawhide’ is technically incorrect. A more accurate name would be processed-hide, because the skin isn’t raw at all. But the term “rawhide” has stuck.
Rawhide chews start out hard, but as your dog works the chew it becomes softer, and eventually he can unknot the knots on each end and the chew takes on the consistency of a slimy piece of taffy or bubble gum. And by that time your dog cannot stop working it -- it becomes almost addictive.
At this point, there’s no longer any dental benefit to the chew because it has turned soft and gooey, and, in fact, it has become a choking and intestinal obstruction hazard.“
P.S. Ready for the jaw dropper?
An investigation by Humane Society International stated in their report, “In a particularly grisly twist, the skins of brutally slaughtered dogs in Thailand are mixed with other bits of skin to produce rawhide chew toys for pet dogs. Manufacturers told investigators that these chew toys are regularly exported to and sold in U.S. stores.” – dogingtonpost.com
Rodney Habib - Pet Nutrition Blogger
"An educated, informed and well-researched community of pet owners can only put more pressure on the pet food industry to be better! When pet owners know better, they will only do better!"
If you can kick him outside with them (because they do look like what they are) cow ears are less fatty than pig ears.
Thanks for the suggestions - nylabones hold zilch interest for him, fish skin chews get demolished in about 3 seconds but he loves them
I'll try soaking his antler and seeing if that makes it a bit more exciting
I shudder to think what a bull pizzle is ... (in fact I'm sure I know ...) but he would probably love that ...
what kind of bones are ok for a sensitive-tummied dog?
Yep, they are what you think they are, basildon. They used to be made into walking canes, apparently.
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