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How big a job is this?

(19 Posts)
eternalnamechange Mon 03-Jul-17 23:48:59

Started stripping wallpaper and discovered this underneath sad. Assuming it doesn't go much further down scared to look, how big a job and how costly is this likely to be? Please excuse my complete ignorance.

Thanks.

PigletJohn Mon 03-Jul-17 23:55:15

are you talking about the paint colour, or the gaps between the plasterboards?

eternalnamechange Mon 03-Jul-17 23:57:32

Sorry! The gaps and cracked plaster!

PigletJohn Tue 04-Jul-17 09:39:12

I can't see cracks, but it looks to me like drylining badly fitted with big gaps. Gaps can be taped over with scrim (like bandage) and jointing plaster applied, but I wonder why the gaps are so big. If it is loose and moving, any filler will crack. You can also use expanding foam (preferably pink fire grade) but there needs to be something behind for it to stick to.

Is the plasterboard nailed to wooden studs? Or is there a block wall behind? Or insulation? Do you think it is an incompetent refurb?

Along the ceiling joint you can put coving if you want.

eternalnamechange Tue 04-Jul-17 12:16:16

Here is a closer photo. I have no idea how it's attached, and the ceiling part "gives" very slightly when I press it. Should I get a builder, or just a plasterer/good decorator to look at it, do you think?

PigletJohn Tue 04-Jul-17 12:35:32

it looks to me like previous bodgy attempts have been made to fill it. iif you press near the edge, it should not give way. If you poke into the gap, say, a knife blade, see what's behind it. Drylining sounds hollow when knocked with the knuckles.

If you can get a recommendation for a good plasterer, he should be able to see what the trouble is. They might squeeze in such a little job at the end of the day. Plastering is usually very bad for pernicious dust and grime.

At worst it might be necessary to cut out a strip and batten firmly behind it.

The ceiling you might be able to do yourself if you can get into the loft or room above. there is probably a gap between the joist and the wall, and the unsupported edge is hanging in the gap. This is more common over a bay window.

eternalnamechange Tue 04-Jul-17 12:47:49

Thanks Piglet. We are in the attic. So it's just a small roof space above (I imagine, I've never been up and don't intend to). Just stuck a knife in and it didn't reach any other surface. The room next to it is the bathroom, but with a lower ceiling. I had a bad leak in there before and I'm wondering if it's travelled along and caused this?

PigletJohn Tue 04-Jul-17 13:00:18

is it a loft conversion?

Is it badly insulated?

is it now a habitable room?

eternalnamechange Tue 04-Jul-17 13:17:00

We've lived here 10 years and this is my sons room. It's been decorated once before, but the walls were just was lined over and painted then, so don't know how long it's been like that underneath.

Insulation, I don't know confused Pretty cold though! I would assume it's a loft conversion as we live in it blush Sorry, I'm totally clueless.

PigletJohn Tue 04-Jul-17 15:36:01

if it's drylined, and if it's a loft conversion, and if you can't feel anything behind the plasterboard, there's a good chance it was done to a poor standard.

I still think you should consult a plasterer. He will probably have seen similar before and know some options.

It might be that the best solution would be to pull the old plasterboard off and do it again, properly. Good insulation can be added at the same time. Until recently I would have suggested the plasterboard bonded to rigid insulating foam, but now I think I'd go for mineral wool (try to get the brown stuff treated with Ecose, which does not shed irritating fibres. Plasterers will be familiar with both methods.

If you go this route, it may seem daunting, but you will be amazed at the speed plasterers can work. Have any new sockets, pipe lagging or roof repairs done while it's open.

Buy a builders canister vacuum cleaner before you have any plaster work done, and send your domestic hoover away for the duration.

eternalnamechange Tue 04-Jul-17 15:51:45

Oh jeez sad Any idea how long this will take and more importantly how much it's going to cost me? I thought I'd get DS room done before I started saving for having a new bathroom in before xmas, but this sounds expensive!

Thanks for all your advice!

PigletJohn Tue 04-Jul-17 15:59:07

No, you need a plasterer on site to assess it.

There are specialist dry-liners. A father-and-son or a couple of brothers is the size of firm you need. Whenever you see any building work going on near you, stop and ask if there is a plasterer. Make a note of the address and call back to ask the householder's opinion.

If the site is a shambles or they only have a mobile number (no address or company name) look elsewhere.

eternalnamechange Wed 05-Jul-17 16:59:40

I had a plasterer out last night and he seems to think it just needed Ames taping and decorators cock, so that's good news!

fluttershyby Wed 05-Jul-17 18:15:50

Decorators cock grinI think you meant caulk

Tatlerer Wed 05-Jul-17 19:31:44

Excellent news OP and absolutely PMSL at decorators cock gringringrin

Buckinghambae Wed 05-Jul-17 19:53:03

I would be wary of the decorators methods grin

MikeUniformMike Wed 05-Jul-17 20:05:09

Blimey! I thought I was missing out by doing my own decorating.

eternalnamechange Wed 05-Jul-17 20:27:46

Oh right! I assumed it was spelt the same way blush So glad I haven't texted the decorator yet!

Itsmytemporaryname Wed 05-Jul-17 20:45:20

If the walls aren't moving and there aren't cracks outside I'd just let the plasterer put his cock in it.
Strip
The whole room first though in case there are more cracks or uneven surfaces.
Our plasterer charges £120/day and it's well worth it to have lovely flat walls.

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