Please help me with twin slot shelving(11 Posts)
I want to put up twin slot shelving in an alcove. I think I have the wood for the shelves, which I would cut to size with a jigsaw (can I do this?!).
My main question is EXACTLY which screws to use and how many. I will have two "uprights" and about six shelves. I want to be able to store heavy things on the shelves (metal sewing machine, records, paperwork, books etc) without worrying about them coming out of the wall. I have a drill etc.
The people in my life who could help with this are either too busy, a bit useless or very competent but will just do it themselves, when what I want is to learn how to do it myself!
SO my very detailed questions please.
1) What screws and plasplugs should I use? I need the length and the size. The walls are brick or other 1940s masonry (it's an internal wall facing the other house on a semi). What I would really love is a link to the EXACT screws and plugs available from B and Q.
2) How many screws should I put in the uprights? The wall is a normal sort of height (about 2.4m) and I want floor to ceiling ish - what length upright should I go for and how many screws do I need to put in the wall.
3) I'm sure there was something else.
Put as many screws in the uprights as there are spaces for screws.
Use uprights as long as the area you want to have shelves on.
I went to Homebase and was told to use these screws and wall plugs - the "multi material" ones, that require a 6mm drill bit to make the right holes for them.
Trills - of course that makes sense about the number of screws! Thanks for screw recommendation
Another question... how far can the shelf stick out past the end of the bracket? Would a 37cm shelf be ok on a 27cm bracket?
I don't understand that question. The brackets go vertically.
I guess you mean the shelf supports, and yes they can stick out further, but if the wood is not strong (eg plywood. Chip board wouldn't be) then don't put anything heavy at the front. 6mm plugs sounds good, make sure you drill right through the plaster into the brick. And I'd be looking at 70mm screws 5mm diameter.
The great thing about those supports is they spread the weight across the whole wall so there's almost no force on the fixings other than straight down. You should be able to sit on them once you're done!
the brackets have a hole at the end so you can screw vertically into the board to stop it wobbling or slipping out of place. But this is not strong. If you have an overhang, and try to climb up it, the boards will tip up and plummet to the ground with you.
I would hesitate to have an overhang of more than 50mm. No overhang at all if you have climbing urchins.
btw you say cut them with a jigsaw. A jigsaw is suitable for cutting complex shapes. It is not suitable for cutting a square straight edge.
If you have not bought them yet, some DIY sheds will cut to size for you.
Otherwise you can do it with a panel saw. Even a cheap one will not go blunt before you have cut your shelves.
18mm ply is very strong, and will carry, say, a microwave or a shelf of books (which are very heavy). Thinner board will tend to bend in the middle. You can get "hardwood faced ply" which has a decorative veneer on at least one face, suitable for staining and varnishing if you wish. The cheaper grades are increasingly likely to have dead knots and cracks in the surface, as they are made with cheaper veneers.
If you want an ornamental front edge you can glue on 18mm stripwood, with a few pins to hold it while the glue sets.
Ply and other sheet materials are usually sold in 1200x2400mm boards, sometimes 600x2400 or smaller fractions. You will find it difficult to carry a full size board. Try to calculate your sizes with the minimum number of cuts, as you may be charged per cut.
BTW I would use brown plasplugs, not red, about 30mm long, and tap them slightly below the surface of the plaster, which will reduce risk of cracking. The flat piece on the block of plugs is engraved and has holes for the drill size and screw sizes that fit.
Here's a laugh
Look at the price of 24 brown plugs at B&Q.
How does it compare with the price of 96?
Screwfix are better value.
Here's a suitable screw www.screwfix.com/p/screw-tite-pz-countersunk-screws-5-x-70mm-100-pack/42065
60mm might do, but you have to deduct the thickness of the upright channel, and of the plaster, which might be about 20mm each, before you get to the loadbearing brick.
I have chosen a Pozidrive countersunk head for you. You might need a new screwdriver. The uprights have countersunk holes. If you have a cordless drill, it may have a clutch and a slow speed for driving screws.
Piglet John your reply is so good it's making me want to go and put shelves up now!
My only comment is ree the overhang, the one I saw had a couple of places to attach the bracket to the actual shelf (I guess 500mm depth though), but I hadn't thought about the fact you'd be relying on the pull out resistance of the wood. So agreed on the overhang, unless the op wants to screw something between the back of the shelf and the bracket/shelf above/wall.ButI'm not sure 100% what would work, and it would complicate matters a lot.
Thanks so much for the help, feeling much more prepared now! I know a jigsaw isn't ideal but I'm using wood I already have and want to keep costs down so will do my best with a guide to make straight cuts. I can put that side of the shelves on the side where they won't be seen, so a little wobbly will be ok!
I was only passing along what I was told in Homebase - PigletJohn is the true source of wisdom on which plugs to use.
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